• EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

  • EVEREST BASE CAMP

    TREK GUIDE

    Mobile header image for the Everest Base Camp trek guide, featuring a trekker walking on a rocky trail with mountain peaks in the distance

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EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE

In this guide we cover everything you need to know about the Everest Base Camp Trek in Nepal. This includes suggested itineraries and practical information about accommodation, costs, what to pack, independent vs. guided treks, transport, and more. We also offer a route map with GPX download for use on the trek. And along with this written guide, we also share ‘silent hiking’ films that work well as a visual guide to the trail.

A chance for an adventurous and exciting journey, the Everest Base Camp Trek serves up spectacular scenery and gets you close to the world’s highest mountains, and as one of Nepal’s best known treks, it attracts people of all ages and experience levels. The trek ascends to high altitude (5000 m +) and is challenging, but it is achievable with a sensible itinerary that includes proper acclimatisation. Read on to discover more and start planning your own EBC trek.

Use the drop down menu below to jump to each section of this guide

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK OVERVIEW

EBC TREK FILMS

EVEREST BASE CAMP MAP & GPX DOWNLOAD

ELEVATION PROFILE & 3D ROUTE MAP

EVEREST BASE CAMP ITINERARIES

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK SUMMARY

BEST TREKKING SEASONS

HOW TO GET TO LUKLA

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK PERMITS & FEES

TREKKING INDEPENDENTLY

TREKKING WITH A GUIDE (& PORTER)

RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY

ACCOMMODATION ON THE EBC TREK

FOOD ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

SAFE DRINKING WATER

WIFI, PHONE SIGNAL & CHARGING

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK COST & BUDGET

MONEY & ATMs ON THE EBC TREK

WHAT TO PACK FOR THE EBC TREK

ALTITUDE AWARENESS & AMS

TREKKING TRAVEL INSURANCE

GETTING TO NEPAL

NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

WHERE TO STAY IN KATHMANDU

MAPS, GUIDEBOOKS & APPS


*Some of the links in this post are affiliate links – if you purchase a product or service via these links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps offset the cost of running this blog and keeps us travelling so that we can continue to produce great content for you. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We greatly appreciate your support!*

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK OVERVIEW

    • DISTANCE | 120 -143 km depending on route taken (incl. acclimatisation/day hikes)
    • DURATION | 12 – 15 days depending on route (incl. flying to/from Lukla)
    • START/END | Lukla
    • PERMITS REQUIRED | Khumbu Trek Card 3000 NPR (SAARC and Chinese nationals 2000 NPR); Sagarmatha National Park Fee 3000 NPR (SAARC nationals 1500 NPR / Nepali nationals 100 NPR)
    • TREKKING SEASON | Best Seasons: April to Mid-May, October to Mid-November; Shoulder Seasons: March, Late May, September, Mid-November to December; Avoid: June to August, January to February
    • TREK DIFFICULTY | Moderate (challenging if including Kongma La or Gokyo Lakes)
    • ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS | +/- approx 7600 metres (Classic EBC Trek incl. acclimatisation/day hikes)
    • MAX ALTITUDE | 5611 m (Kala Patthar) 
    • GUIDE MANDATORY? | Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality has stated that it is NOT mandatory to trek with a guide in the Khumbu region
    • ACCOMMODATION | Teahouses/Guesthouses in villages along the trail
    • TREK COST | $35 – $155 USD per person, per day (absolute budget independent trekker to fully inclusive package)
    • RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY | Himalayan Masters, Quote HOGG5 for 5% discount

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK OVERVIEW

DISTANCE
120 -143 km
depending on route taken
(incl. acclimatisation/day hikes)

DURATION
12 – 15 days
depending on route taken
(incl. flying to/from Lukla)

START/END
Lukla

PERMITS REQUIRED
Khumbu Trek Card 3000 NPR
(SAARC and Chinese nationals 2000 NPR)
Sagarmatha National Park Fee 3000 NPR (SAARC nationals 1500 NPR, Nepali nationals 100 NPR)

TREKKING SEASON
Best Season
April to Mid-May
October to Mid-November
Shoulder Seasons
March, Late May, September
Mid-November to December
Months To Avoid
June, July, August
January and February

TREK DIFFICULTY
Moderate
(challenging if including
Kongma La or Gokyo Lakes)

ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS
+/- approx 7600 metres
(Classic EBC Trek incl.
acclimatisation/day hikes)

MAX ALTITUDE
5611 m (Kala Patthar)

GUIDE MANDATORY?
Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality has stated that it is NOT mandatory to trek with a guide in the Khumbu region

ACCOMMODATION
Teahouses/Guesthouses in villages along the trail

TREK COST
$35 – $155 USD per person, per day (absolute budget independent trekker to fully inclusive package)

OUR RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY
Himalayan Masters, Quote HOGG5 for 5% discount


EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING FILMS

Get a sense of the Everest Base Camp trekking route in our ‘silent hiking’ style ambient films.





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EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK MAP & GPX DOWNLOAD

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

MAP & GPX DOWNLOAD

We have created a detailed Everest Base Camp trekking map to accompany this guide. It shows the Classic Everest Base Camp trekking route along with the alternative routes outlined in this guide, going via Khumjung and Phorste, Kongma La, and Cho La and Gokyo Lakes. The main side/acclimatisation hike options are included too, and the overland route between Salleri and Lukla is also marked.

Detailed stats and an elevation profile are included for each route section. Guesthouse settlements and tea shops are also marked, as well as key sights and practical info such as checkpoints, hospitals, and transport hubs. Guesthouses as per our own trek itinerary are marked, including info about prices and services, phone numbers (where possible), and a copy of the menu. Photos are included with almost every pin. 

You can use the digital map online, or download it for offline use with a mapping app such as Organic Maps, Maps.me or Gaia GPS. This is very helpful for navigation assistance on the trail. It allows you to quickly pinpoint key places and services along the way and calculate distances and elevation differences between destinations.

Note that while we’ve tried to be as accurate as possible when recording and mapping the route, changes on the ground are inevitable (especially on routes crossing glaciers) and this map should not be solely relied upon for navigation.

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ELEVATION PROFILE

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

ELEVATION PROFILE

The image below shows the elevation profile of the Classic Everest Base Camp trek, starting and ending in Lukla. The route shown here includes the various acclimatisation and side hikes as outlined in the suggested itinerary below. Elevation is displayed in metres and distance in kilometres.

Elevation profile for the Everest Base Camp Trek in Nepal, including the standard acclimatisation and side hikes

3D ROUTE MAP

Watch our 3D relief map video to visualise the landscape and get a sense of the Everest Base Camp trek.


EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

ITINERARY OPTIONS

There is more than one trekking route to Everest Base Camp. In this section we outline the Classic EBC trek itinerary, but also include three alternative itineraries which enable you to vary your route on the way to and from Base Camp and see much more of the Khumbu region.  

We have created an overview table for each of the Everest Base Camp trek itinerary options. These include trekking distances and approximate trekking times for each day (excluding lunch stops, breaks, etc), as well as stats on elevation gain/loss and sleeping altitude. For each itinerary the assumption is that you will fly into Lukla on the morning of Day 1 and start trekking. You will need to add 3 – 5 days if you plan to travel overland from Kathmandu to Lukla or vice versa. 

It is also possible to combine the following itineraries to create your own alternative EBC trek. For example, you could trek via Khumjung, Phortse and Kongma La on the way to EBC, or you could include both Kongma La and Gokyo Lakes. A few minor possible alternatives along the way are noted below each itinerary, such as alternate overnight stops.

If viewing the itinerary tables on a mobile device or tablet, scroll to the right to see the full table or flip your screen to landscape mode

CLASSIC EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY

A classic Everest Base Camp trek itinerary is 11 nights/12 days, following the exact same route on the way to and from EBC. If you have limited time, this is the shortest itinerary you can follow while sticking to safe altitude ascent rates.

DAYROUTEDISTANCE & TIME

ELEVATION GAINELEVATION LOSSSLEEP ALTITUDE
DAY 1*LUKLA →
PHAKDING		7.5 km
2.5 hours		472 m687 m2640 m
DAY 2
PHAKDING →
NAMCHE BAZAAR		10.2 km
5 hours
1628 m
851 m3425 m
DAY 3NAMCHE BAZAAR
(Acclimatisation Hike)
5.6 km – 9.1 km
3 – 6 hours		550 – 740 m550 – 740 m3425 m
DAY 4**NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ TENGBOCHE		9.5 km
4.5 hours		1197 m753 m3860 m
DAY 5TENGBOCHE
→ DINGBOCHE		9.9 km
4 hours		944 m513 m4300 m
DAY 6NANGKARTSHANG
(Acclimatisation Hike)		5 km
4 hours		766 m766 m4300 m
DAY 7DINGBOCHE
→ LOBUCHE		7.8 km
4.5 hours		773 m151 m4920 m
DAY 8
(Part 1)		LOBUCHE →
GORAK SHEP		4.5 km
2.5 hours		316 m70 m5160 m
DAY 8
(Part 2)
***		KALA PATTHAR
(Return Hike)		3.8 km
3.5 hours		495 m495 m5160 m
DAY 9
(Part 1)
***		GORAK SHEP →
EVEREST BASE CAMP
(Return Hike)		6.3 km
2.5 hours		255 m255 m
DAY 9
(Part 2)		GORAK SHEP
→ PHERICHE		11.6 km
4.5 hours		110 m1022 m4250 m
DAY 10PHERICHE
→ NAMCHE BAZAAR		19.2 km
7 hours		1298 m2130 m3425 m
DAY 11NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ LUKLA		17.8 km
6 hours		1571 m2133 m2865 m
DAY 12FLY LUKLA →
KATHMANDU/
MANTHALI
20 – 30 mins1400 m

*Alternatively, continue to Monjo (2830 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 5.1 km, approx 2 hours trekking time). Doing this means the trail will be less busy for both your Phakding to Monjo section, and the Monjo to Namche section the following morning.


**Alternatively, continue to Pangboche (3950 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 4.2 km, approx 1.5 hours trekking time). Pangboche is a lovely village with fantastic views of Ama Dablam, and there are many guesthouses. Tengboche, on the other hand, only has two guesthouses and it can be difficult to get a room here in peak season. Continuing to Pangboche also means the trail will be less busy for both your Tengboche to Pangboche section, and the Pangboche to Dingboche section the following morning.


***On days 8 and 9 the classic itinerary that most people follow is to visit EBC after lunch at Gorak Shep, then hike up Kala Patthar in the dark for sunrise the next morning (when it is bitterly cold). If you swap these two around as per the above suggested itinerary, you are guaranteed to have a less busy experience at both EBC and on the trail up Kala Patthar. As the skies are usually clearer in the morning you are also likely to have better views at EBC, however it is possible that the views from Kala Patthar will be obscured by afternoon clouds. If you’re lucky and have clear afternoon skies, then you will be treated to a fiery sunset glow on Everest and the surrounding mountains. If you hike up Kala Patthar in the morning, your mountain views will be brief as the sun rises directly behind Everest and you’ll soon be looking directly into the sun.


ALTERNATIVE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK ITINERARY VIA KHUMJUNG AND PHORTSE

Our first alternative Everest Base Camp trek itinerary is 12 nights/13 days. This itinerary follows a different route between Namche Bazaar and Pangboche on the way to EBC, by trekking via Khumjung and Phortse. The overall difficulty of this route remains moderate, and the additional day allows you to explore more of the region and gives more time for acclimatisation. It’s also a great option for avoiding crowds during the peak trekking seasons, as far fewer people trek this alternative route.

DAYROUTEDISTANCE & TIME

ELEVATION GAINELEVATION LOSSSLEEP ALTITUDE
DAY 1*LUKLA →
PHAKDING		7.5 km
2.5 hours		472 m687 m2640 m
DAY 2
PHAKDING →
NAMCHE BAZAAR		10.2 km
5 hours
1628 m
851 m3425 m
DAY 3NAMCHE BAZAAR
(Acclimatisation Day)
Flexible
(see ‘Trek Summary’)		3425 m
DAY 4NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ KHUMJUNG		4 km
2 hours		547 m175 m3790 m
DAY 5KHUMJUNG
→ PHORTSE		7 km
5 hours		772 m754 m3800 m
DAY 6PHORTSE → DINGBOCHE 11.6 km
5.5 hours		1413 m925 m4300 m
DAY 7NANGKARTSHANG
(Acclimatisation Hike)		5 km
4 hours		766 m766 m4300 m
DAY 8DINGBOCHE
→ LOBUCHE		7.8 km
4.5 hours		773 m151 m4920 m
DAY 9
(Part 1)		LOBUCHE →
GORAK SHEP		4.5 km
2.5 hours		316 m70 m5160 m
DAY 9
(Part 2)
**		KALA PATTHAR
(Return Hike)		3.8 km
3.5 hours		495 m495 m5160 m
DAY 10
(Part 1)
**		GORAK SHEP →
EVEREST BASE CAMP
(Return Hike)		6.3 km
2.5 hours		255 m255 m
DAY 10
(Part 2)		GORAK SHEP
→ PHERICHE		11.6 km
4.5 hours		110 m1022 m4250 m
DAY 11PHERICHE
→ NAMCHE BAZAAR		19.2 km
7 hours		1298 m2130 m3425 m
DAY 12NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ LUKLA		17.8 km
6 hours		1571 m2133 m2865 m
DAY 13FLY LUKLA →
KATHMANDU/
MANTHALI
20 – 30 mins1400 m

*Alternatively, continue to Monjo (2830 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 5.1 km, approx 2 hours trekking time). Doing this means the trail will be less busy for both your Phakding to Monjo section, and the Monjo to Namche section the following morning.


**On days 8 and 9 the classic itinerary that most people follow is to visit EBC after lunch at Gorak Shep, then hike up Kala Patthar in the dark for sunrise the next morning (when it is bitterly cold). If you swap these two around as per the above suggested itinerary, you are guaranteed to have a less busy experience at both EBC and on the trail up Kala Patthar. As the skies are usually clearer in the morning you are also likely to have better views at EBC, however it is possible that the views from Kala Patthar will be obscured by afternoon clouds. If you’re lucky and have clear afternoon skies, then you will be treated to a fiery sunset glow on Everest and the surrounding mountains. If you hike up Kala Patthar in the morning, your mountain views will be brief as the sun rises directly behind Everest and you’ll soon be looking directly into the sun.


EVEREST BASE CAMP VIA KONGMA LA TREK ITINERARY

Our second alternative Everest Base Camp trek itinerary is 13 nights/14 days. This changes the route taken between Dingboche and Lobuche on the way to EBC by crossing a high pass called Kongma La (5514 m). This section is more challenging than the rest of the route, but it offers incredible scenery and the chance to explore much quieter sections of trail than you’ll experience on the classic EBC route.

DAYROUTEDISTANCE & TIME

ELEVATION GAINELEVATION LOSSSLEEP ALTITUDE
DAY 1* LUKLA →
PHAKDING		7.5 km
2.5 hours		472 m687 m2640 m
DAY 2
PHAKDING →
NAMCHE BAZAAR		10.2 km
5 hours
1628 m
851 m3425 m
DAY 3NAMCHE BAZAAR
(Acclimatisation Hike)
5.6 km – 9.1 km
3 – 6 hours		550 – 740 m550 – 740 m3425 m
DAY 4**NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ TENGBOCHE		9.5 km
4.5 hours		1197 m753 m3860 m
DAY 5TENGBOCHE
→ DINGBOCHE		9.9 km
4 hours		944 m513 m4300 m
DAY 6NANGKARTSHANG
(Acclimatisation Hike)		5 km
4 hours		766 m766 m4300 m
DAY 7DINGBOCHE
→ CHUKHUNG		5 km
2.5 hours		451 m19 m4730 m
DAY 8
*** 		CHUKHUNG RI
(Acclimatisation Hike)		4.9 km – 5.9 km
3 – 5 hours		645 – 810 m645 – 810 m4730 m
DAY 9CHUKHUNG
→ KONGMA LA
→ LOBUCHE		9.8 km
8 hours		973 m792 m4920 m
DAY 10
(Part 1)		LOBUCHE →
GORAK SHEP		4.5 km
2.5 hours		316 m70 m5160 m
DAY 10
(Part 2)
****		KALA PATTHAR
(Return Hike)		3.8 km
3.5 hours		495 m495 m5160 m
DAY 11
(Part 1)
****		GORAK SHEP →
EVEREST BASE CAMP
(Return Hike)		6.3 km
2.5 hours		255 m255 m
DAY 11
(Part 2)		GORAK SHEP
→ PHERICHE		11.6 km
4.5 hours		110 m1022 m4250 m
DAY 12PHERICHE
→ NAMCHE BAZAAR		19.2 km
7 hours		1298 m2130 m3425 m
DAY 13NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ LUKLA		17.8 km
6 hours		1571 m2133 m2865 m
DAY 14FLY LUKLA →
KATHMANDU/
MANTHALI
20 – 30 mins1400 m

*Alternatively, continue to Monjo (2830 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 5.1 km, approx 2 hours trekking time). Doing this means the trail will be less busy for both your Phakding to Monjo section, and the Monjo to Namche section the following morning.


**Alternatively, continue to Pangboche (3950 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 4.2 km, approx 1.5 hours trekking time). Pangboche is a lovely village with fantastic views of Ama Dablam, and there are many guesthouses. Tengboche, on the other hand, only has two guesthouses and it can be difficult to get a room here in peak season. Continuing to Pangboche also means the trail will be less busy for both your Tengboche to Pangboche section, and the Pangboche to Dingboche section the following morning.


***There are two viewpoints on the Chukhung Ri acclimatisation hike, the lower one (5380 m) which most people visit and the higher one (5516 m) which involves a tough and steep climb towards the end.


****On days 8 and 9 the classic itinerary that most people follow is to visit EBC after lunch at Gorak Shep, then hike up Kala Patthar in the dark for sunrise the next morning (when it is bitterly cold). If you swap these two around as per the above suggested itinerary, you are guaranteed to have a less busy experience at both EBC and on the trail up Kala Patthar. As the skies are usually clearer in the morning you are also likely to have better views at EBC, however it is possible that the views from Kala Patthar will be obscured by afternoon clouds. If you’re lucky and have clear afternoon skies, then you will be treated to a fiery sunset glow on Everest and the surrounding mountains. If you hike up Kala Patthar in the morning, your mountain views will be brief as the sun rises directly behind Everest and you’ll soon be looking directly into the sun.


EVEREST BASE CAMP AND GOKYO LAKES TREK ITINERARY

Our third alternative Everest Base Camp trek itinerary is 14 nights/15 days. This varies the route taken between Lobuche and Namche Bazaar on the way back from EBC, by crossing a high pass called Cho La (5368 m) and descending via the spectacular Gokyo Lakes. Again, this route is more challenging than the classic or first alternative EBC itineraries we suggest, due to the extra distance and overall elevation gain. However, it is a highly rewarding trek which includes some of the most spectacular locations in the Khumbu region. The sections of trail that you must repeat on the way to and from EBC are kept to an absolute minimum on this itinerary.

DAYROUTEDISTANCE & TIME

ELEVATION GAINELEVATION LOSSSLEEP ALTITUDE
DAY 1*LUKLA →
PHAKDING		7.5 km
2.5 hours		472 m687 m2640 m
DAY 2
PHAKDING →
NAMCHE BAZAAR		10.2 km
5 hours
1628 m
851 m3425 m
DAY 3NAMCHE BAZAAR
(Acclimatisation Hike)
5.6 km – 9.1 km
3 – 6 hours		550 – 740 m550 – 740 m3425 m
DAY 4**NAMCHE BAZAAR
→ TENGBOCHE		9.5 km
4.5 hours		1197 m753 m3860 m
DAY 5TENGBOCHE
→ DINGBOCHE		9.9 km
4 hours		944 m513 m4300 m
DAY 6NANGKARTSHANG
(Acclimatisation Hike)		5 km
4 hours		766 m766 m4300 m
DAY 7DINGBOCHE
→ LOBUCHE		7.8 km
4.5 hours		773 m151 m4920 m
DAY 8
(Part 1)		LOBUCHE →
GORAK SHEP		4.5 km
2.5 hours		316 m70 m5160 m
DAY 8
(Part 2)
***		KALA PATTHAR
(Return Hike)		3.8 km
3.5 hours		495 m495 m5160 m
DAY 9
(Part 1)
***		GORAK SHEP →
EVEREST BASE CAMP
(Return Hike)		6.3 km
2.5 hours		255 m255 m
DAY 9
(Part 2)		GORAK SHEP
→ DZONGLHA		11.1 km
4 hours		298 m633 m4825 m
DAY 10DZONGLHA
→ CHO LA
→ DRAGNAG		8.6 km
6 hours		653 m803 m4680 m
DAY 11DRAGNAG
→ GOKYO		3.8 km
3 hours		184 m112 m4750 m
DAY 12
(Part 1)		GOKYO RI
(Return Hike)		3.6 km
3 hours		605 m605 m4020 m
DAY 12
(Part 2)		GOKYO
→ DOLE		12.5 km
4 hours		295 m1008 m4020 m
DAY 13 DOLE
→ MONJO		17 km
7 hours		1360 m2579 m3800 m
DAY 14MONJO
→ LUKLA		12.6 km
4 hours		1155 m1123 m2865 m
DAY 15FLY LUKLA →
KATHMANDU/
MANTHALI		20 – 30 mins

*Alternatively, continue to Monjo (2830 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 5.1 km, approx 2 hours trekking time). Doing this means the trail will be less busy for both your Phakding to Monjo section, and the Monjo to Namche section the following morning.


**Alternatively, continue to Pangboche (3950 m) where fewer people stay overnight (a further 4.2 km, approx 1.5 hours trekking time). Pangboche is a lovely village with fantastic views of Ama Dablam, and there are many guesthouses. Tengboche, on the other hand, only has two guesthouses and it can be difficult to get a room here in peak season. Continuing to Pangboche also means the trail will be less busy for both your Tengboche to Pangboche section, and the Pangboche to Dingboche section the following morning.


***On days 8 and 9 the classic itinerary that most people follow is to visit EBC after lunch at Gorak Shep, then hike up Kala Patthar in the dark for sunrise the next morning (when it is bitterly cold). If you swap these two around as per the above suggested itinerary, you are guaranteed to have a less busy experience at both EBC and on the trail up Kala Patthar. As the skies are usually clearer in the morning you are also likely to have better views at EBC, however it is possible that the views from Kala Patthar will be obscured by afternoon clouds. If you’re lucky and have clear afternoon skies, then you will be treated to a fiery sunset glow on Everest and the surrounding mountains. If you hike up Kala Patthar in the morning, your mountain views will be brief as the sun rises directly behind Everest and you’ll soon be looking directly into the sun.


IMPORTANCE OF BUFFER DAYS

Building in buffer days to your Everest Base Camp itinerary is highly recommended, especially if you plan on flying to/from Lukla. Flights are regularly cancelled due to poor weather conditions, sometimes for a number of days. If everything runs smoothly, it takes half a day or less to get to/from Lukla at the start/end of your trek. However, if flights are not operating, it can take up to 3 days to travel overland from Kathmandu to Lukla, using a mixture of buses and jeeps, and by trekking too. Therefore, it’s wise to have at least 3 or 4 days between the end of your planned trek itinerary and any international flight. This would allow you time to get from Lukla to Kathmandu overland if necessary.

Of course, a delay could also happen at the start of your trek while trying to get to Lukla, and this might leave you struggling to catch up with your original itinerary. Having a couple of buffer days built in will mean you don’t have to drastically alter your itinerary, avoiding the need to walk extra long distances to save a day or skipping places because you don’t have time.

Buffer days also allow you to alter your itinerary on the go more easily. For example, if you get sick and need to spend an extra night somewhere,  or the weather is bad and you want to wait it out before continuing your trek, then you have the extra days on hand.

It’s worth knowing that should everything go to plan and you don’t need to use any buffer days during your trek, it’s straightforward for a trekking agency to change the date of your flight, bringing it forward a few days for example. However, this is not so easy if you have booked your flight online, independently.

OUR RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY

We’ve trekked with a few different agencies in Nepal and our best experience by far has been with Himalayan Masters, who we partnered with for our Langtang Valley, Gosainkunda, and Everest Three Passes treks. We found them to be very professional and committed to a high level of service.

To enquire about booking your own Everest Base Camp or EBC and Gokyo Lakes trek, get in touch via email at info@himalayan-masters.com and mention the code HOGG5 to get a 5% discount off the cost of your trek.


EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK SUMMARY

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

ROUTE SUMMARY

LUKLA TO NAMCHE BAZAAR

The first two days of the Everest Base Camp trek are repeated in reverse on the final day of the trek. With only one route connecting Lukla and Namche Bazaar, unfortunately there’s no avoiding this. 

This section of the trek passes through numerous villages and teahouse settlements, the last of which is Jorsale, shortly beyond the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. There are five suspension bridges to cross, including the 125 metre high Hillary Bridge, and numerous smaller fixed metal bridges. The Khumbu Trek Card Registration desk (where you get your Khumbu Trek Card and pay your Sagarmatha NP entrance fee) is shortly beyond Lukla, and there are further checkpoints at Toc Toc, Monjo, and just before Namche Bazaar.

The route follows a mixture of wide stone paths, riverside paths, and forest trail, with plenty of up and down along the way. There is one notable ascent, a 700 metre climb immediately after crossing the Hillary Suspension Bridge, on the last stretch before Namche. This section is a pleasant couple of days and a good introduction to the trek, with greenery and the chance to see colourful rhododendrons and blossoms in spring, plenty of scenic river views, and a definite buzz thanks to all the people coming and going and the numerous villages dotting the trail.

With only one route up and down to Namche, traffic jams are common along this section, with trekkers, porters, and pack mules, yaks and their handlers all sharing the same trail. Bottlenecks are particularly common at suspension bridges and on the steep climb up to Namche. Be sure to wait on the side of the trail without a drop-off when letting pack animals pass, and don’t start crossing a bridge if you can see them coming in the opposite direction – let them cross first. Finally, stick to the left side when walking by any mani stones, mani walls and prayer wheels, as it’s both common practice and culturally appropriate.

For more detail about this section of the route, see Days 1 and 2 of our Everest Three Passes Route Guide.

A view of the Hillary Suspension bridge from the riverside trail 125 metres below, on the Monjo to Namche Bazaar section of the Everest Three Passes trek

The Hillary Suspension Bridge as seen from the valley floor, with the old bridge still in place below


A view of the Hillary Suspension bridge from the riverside trail 125 metres below, on the Monjo to Namche Bazaar section of the Everest Three Passes trek

The Hillary Suspension Bridge as seen from the
valley floor, with the old bridge still in place below


NAMCHE BAZAAR ACCLIMATISATION DAY

It’s important to acclimatise properly throughout your Everest Base Camp trek. This allows your body time to get used to the ever-increasing altitude as you ascend to 5000 metres and above. Building in rest days, staying well hydrated, and going on acclimatisation hikes (where you climb higher during the day but sleep lower at night) are all good ways of helping your body acclimatise.

Unless you are already acclimatised (for example you have been at altitudes of 4000 metres and higher within the previous week), spending a second night at Namche Bazaar is highly recommended and this is standard on virtually all Everest Base Camp trek itineraries. You should do this even if it seems like you feel physically fine. 

The most common destination for an acclimatisation hike from Namche Bazaar is the Hotel Everest View (3880 m), where you can get lunch or a drink and enjoy fantastic views from the terrace. It takes around 3 hours to hike up to the hotel and back down again. A must-visit on the way is Sagarmatha Next, a learning / experience / visitor centre and gallery championing waste management solutions for the Khumbu region. 

A morning view of Namche Bazaar on the Everest Base Camp and Three Passes treks, the buildings bright in the morning sun and snow capped peaks rising behind

Morning view over Namche Bazaar from the northeast


A morning view of Namche Bazaar on the Everest Base Camp and Three Passes treks, the buildings bright in the morning sun and snow capped peaks rising behind

Morning view of Namche Bazaar from the northeast


For a longer hike and the chance to see more of the local area, doing a loop via Khumjung is a great option. Khumjung is the largest Sherpa village in the region, with an impressive monastery and a school founded by Edmund Hillary in 1960. The original classroom is now the Sir Edmund Hillary Visitor Centre, another great place to visit and learn about the Khumbu region. The loop hike (including Hotel Everest View) is around 7.5 km, and you should allow up to 5 hours for the hike. It’s also possible to include a visit to Khunde village, home to another monastery. This would extend the loop route to around 9.1 km and you should allow up to 6 hours.  

If you plan to overnight at Khumjung on day 4 of your trek, following the ‘Alternative Everest Base Camp Itinerary’ outlined above, you might want to opt for a shorter Namche acclimatisation hike. Hiking 100 metres up to the helipad on the western side of the village is a good choice. There is an excellent view over Namche from here, where you can see it curving around the sloping hillside in amphitheatre-like fashion.

Various Namche acclimatisation hiking routes are marked on our EBC Trek map.

NAMCHE BAZAAR TO DINGBOCHE

CLASSIC ROUTE VIA TENGBOCHE

This two-day section of the Everest Base Camp trek offers fantastic mountain scenery and a beautiful trekking trail, passing through forest and open hillside. There is one notable big climb between Phunki Thanga and Tengboche but otherwise the trail is mostly straightforward, with just a few short steep sections, and plenty of flat, undulating, or gentle climbs. There are a handful of small villages along the route, two suspension bridges, a checkpoint at Phunki Thanga, and an impressive monastery at Tengboche which is well worth visiting (daily 7am – 8am, 9am – 11am, and 1pm – 5:30pm, monks chanting at 3pm). After Pangboche you are more or less above the treeline, surrounded by imposing mountains and expansive views.

For more detail about this section of the route, see Days 4 and 5 of our Everest Three Passes Route Guide.

Trekkers pass by guesthouses in the village of Shomare on the Everest Base Camp Trek, with the twin peaks of Ama Dablam rising behind and marking the hazy morning skyline

Trekkers pass through Shomare on the way to Dingboche, with the twin peaks of Ama Dablam rising behind


Trekkers pass by guesthouses in the village of Shomare on the Everest Base Camp Trek, with the twin peaks of Ama Dablam rising behind and marking the hazy morning skyline

Trekkers pass through the village of Shomare on
the way to Dingboche, with the twin peaks of
Ama Dablam rising behind


ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA KHUMJUNG AND PHORTSE

This three-day route section follows an alternative trail between Namche and Pangboche before joining the classic Everest Base Camp trail for the final stretch to Dingboche. Opting for this itinerary allows you to vary your route on the way to and from EBC and take advantage of much quieter trails. Plus, the extra day allows for a slower ascent pace, which is a good option for anyone who knows they are slow to acclimatise or prefers to follow a more cautious itinerary.

This route climbs initially to Khumjung, the largest Sherpa village in the region, then stays above the ‘Classic EBC’ route to Pangboche, offering fantastic views throughout. There is a small guesthouse settlement at Mong La (3970 m) which is the highest point on the way to Phortse, a scenic village with a number of guesthouses, local homes, and the Khumbu Climbing Centre. 

There is plenty of up and down on this section of the trek, with some notable climbs to Khumjung, Mong La, and both before and after Phortse. However, this route is not considerably more challenging than the ‘Classic EBC’ route, especially as it is split over three days instead of two. 

DINGBOCHE ACCLIMATISATION DAY

Spending two nights at Dingboche, a sizeable village situated at 4300 m, is advisable in order to ensure you ascend to very high altitude at a safe rate. Going on an acclimatisation hike is also an important part of acclimatising to such altitudes, and Nangkartshang Peak (5039 m) is a great option. This hill rises to the north of Dingboche and there are fantastic views throughout the climb, especially of Ama Dablam. There is an obvious path all the way to the rocky top, which is festooned with prayer flags and spacious enough for plenty of people. The 766 metre climb should take around 2.5 – 3 hours, with the descent about half that. It’s advisable to start early (around 7:30am) for the best chance of clear views and calm conditions. 

People rest and take in the views from the prayer flags (5039 m) on Nangkartshang, a day hike from Dingboche that is important for acclimatisation on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

After a 760 metre climb, people rest and enjoy the views at the prayer flags on Nangkartshang


People rest and take in the views from the prayer flags (5039 m) on Nangkartshang, a day hike from Dingboche that is important for acclimatisation on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

After a 760 metre climb, people rest and enjoy
the views at the prayer flags on Nangkartshang


For a longer and less busy acclimatisation hike, a great option is the side hike up the valley to the east of Dingboche to Chukhung Village and Chukhung Ri, a viewpoint situated at 5380 m. The views from Chukhung Ri are fantastic, looking back down the valley and across to an impressive ice wall, and you’ll be surrounded by numerous majestic snowy peaks including Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and Ama Dablam. Allow up to 8 hours for this return hike.

A trekker and guide stop to appreciate the views after the initial climb up from Chukhung on this Everest Three Passes acclimatisation hike

Plenty of outstanding views to appreciate while hiking up to Chukhung Ri


A trekker and guide stop to appreciate the views after the initial climb up from Chukhung on this Everest Three Passes acclimatisation hike

Plenty of outstanding views to stop and
appreciate while hiking up to Chukhung Ri


Whichever acclimatisation hike you decide to do, ensure you have plenty of water, snacks, and warm layers with you.

For more detail about these hikes, see Day 6 (Nangkartshang) and Day 8 (Chukhung Ri) of our Three Passes Route Guide.

DINGBOCHE TO EVEREST BASE CAMP

CLASSIC ROUTE

If you’re following the Classic EBC route you’ll trek from Dingboche to Base Camp over 2 – 2.5 days, spending a night at Lobuche and then at Gorak Shep. From Gorak Shep you’ll do a return hike to EBC. Most people also include a side hike to Kala Patthar, the highest point of the trek at 5611 m, where you can get a view of Mt Everest (which isn’t actually visible from Base Camp.) 

The route heads up the valley to the northwest of Dingboche, climbs to Thok La pass, then heads northeast, running parallel to the Khumbu Glacier all the way to Base Camp. It’s a gradual ascent for most of the way, but at these altitudes (4300 m – 5300 m) even a gentle climb can take your breath away. The climb to Thok La on the way to Lobuche, the short but steep climb on the way to Gorak Shep, and the undulating rocky glacier section immediately before Gorak Shep are among the most challenging sections.

The views are wonderful throughout and the final sight of Everest Base Camp, encircled by soaring peaks, is a memorable one. This is especially true if you’re trekking during the peak climbing season, when a sea of tents sprawls across the glacier at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall – seen from the trail, these tiny yellow dots emphasise the enormity of the surroundings even more.

Everest base Camp on a sunny April morning during the spring climbing season; a multitude of yellow tents sit atop the rock-covered glacier, with many peaks and the Khumbu Icefall rising behind, and the summit of Mount Everest just visible in the background

The clouds parting to reveal the massive bulk of Mount Everest about 30 minutes before sunset, seen from Kala Patthar on the Everest Three Passes and Base Camp trek

Two trekkers and a guide posing for the obligatory photo on the 'Everest Base Camp Rock' on a sunny blue skies morning

Everest base Camp on a sunny April morning during the spring climbing season; a multitude of yellow tents sit atop the rock-covered glacier, with many peaks and the Khumbu Icefall rising behind, and the summit of Mount Everest just visible in the background

First sight of Everest Base Camp from the trail


Two trekkers and a guide posing for the obligatory photo on the 'Everest Base Camp Rock' on a sunny blue skies morning

Posing for the obligatory photo on the ‘EBC Rock’


The clouds parting to reveal the massive bulk of Mount Everest about 30 minutes before sunset, seen from Kala Patthar on the Everest Three Passes and Base Camp trek

Seen from the Kala Patthar trail about 30 minutes
before sunset, the clouds part to reveal the summit
of Mount Everest (8849 m)


Lobuche is a small settlement of guesthouses on the edge of the Khumbu Glacier, a very busy spot where everyone going to and from EBC stops for food and/or spends the night. Gorak Shep is even smaller, busier, and more basic with just four guesthouses and no good water supply. 

For more detail about this section of the route, see Days 10 and 11 of our Everest Three Passes Route Guide.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA KONGMA LA

This alternative route to Everest Base Camp is a three day trek between Dingboche and Lobuche, via Chukhung, Chukhung Ri and Kongma La. At Lobuche you rejoin the classic route for the final section to Gorak Shep, Kala Patthar and EBC. This is part of the Everest Three Passes trek and is a challenging but very rewarding addition to the EBC trek. With far fewer people trekking this route compared to the Classic EBC route, you can expect the trail to be much quieter.

The route follows a gently ascending trail up the scenic valley to the northeast of Dingboche before reaching the small guesthouse settlement of Chukhung. It’s advisable to spend two nights here, using the extra day for an acclimatisation hike to the spectacular viewpoint of Chukhung Ri (5380 m) before crossing Kongma La the following day. The scenery around the village is very dramatic, as are the views seen throughout the hike to Chukhung Ri, with Ama Dablam rising to the south, Island Peak to the east, and Lhotse and Nuptse to the north, along with countless other peaks and the dramatic ice wall of the Chukhung Glacier.

The trek to Kongma La (5514 m) involves a long ascent but other than a couple of short steep sections, it’s mostly a steady climb, and the landscape is striking. From the pass you have incredible 360 degree views and you can see all the way down to Lobuche, a small cluster of buildings on the far side of the rocky Khumbu Glacier. The descent is somewhat steep and slippery at first due to loose dirt, shale, and small rocks, but becomes less steep as you work your way down to the eastern side of the glacier. The final section, crossing the glacier itself, involves plenty of up and down as you work your way across jumbled rocks and around small glacial lakes; on the other side, a final downhill stretch leads to Lobuche.

For more detail about this section of the route, see Days 7 – 9 of our Everest Three Passes Route Guide.

A hiker and guide cross a flat, rocky section before Kongma La on the Everest Three Passes trek, with the snowy ridgeline to the east visible behind

On the final approach to Kongma La


A hiker and guide cross a flat, rocky section before Kongma La on the Everest Three Passes trek, with the snowy ridgeline to the east visible behind

On the final approach to Kongma La


EVEREST BASE CAMP TO LUKLA

CLASSIC ROUTE

The Classic Everest Base Camp trekking route follows the same trail on the return to Namche Bazaar, covering the distance in three days with overnights at Pheriche, Namche, and Lukla. As you drop in altitude more oxygen flows through your blood and the physical strain on your body reduces. This combined with the fact that you no longer need to think about acclimatisation enables you to cover a much greater daily distance than on previous days. The return section of the trek is not all downhill however, and three 17 – 19 km days in a row can be very tiring!

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE VIA CHO LA AND GOKYO LAKES

An alternative route connects Lobuche and Namche Bazaar via Cho La and Gokyo Lakes. This turns your trek into a loop hike commonly known as the Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes trek. Following this route over six days, you’ll cross Cho La (5368 m), a high pass to the west of Lobuche, descend from the pass and traverse the rocky Ngozumpa Glacier to reach Gokyo and a string of brilliant blue lakes, then follow the Gokyo Valley back to Namche where you’ll join the trail to Lukla. The route takes in some of the best scenery in the Khumbu region and is a fantastic alternative to the Classic EBC trek, although definitely more challenging with the addition of the high pass. 

This route diverges from the classic trail a little south of Lobuche, working its way around a hillside to the northwest to reach the small guesthouse settlement of Dzonglha. The ascent to Cho La on the next morning is initially gradual, after which there are a couple of steep sections and the crossing of an icy glacier (microspikes recommended) just before the pass. The descent starts off steeply (aided by a fixed metal rope) before becoming more gradual as it works its way down the valley to the guesthouses at Dragnag (Thangnak). On the following morning* you have to cross the Ngozumpa Glacier, the largest glacier in Nepal, with a rocky, undulating trail passing small glacial lakes to reach Gokyo on the other side. The descent onto and climb off the glacier is quite steep.

*If you are looking to save a day it is possible to continue to Gokyo after crossing Cho La, without spending the night at Dragnag (Thangnak). It will very much depend on your energy levels and the weather conditions on the day.  

Trekkers cross the glacier towards Cho La, the middle of the three passes on the Everest Three Passes trek

Trekkers crossing the icy glacier towards Cho La (5368 m), the rocky dip ahead


Trekkers cross the glacier towards Cho La, the middle of the three passes on the Everest Three Passes trek

Trekkers crossing the icy glacier towards
Cho La (5368 m), the rocky dip ahead


Gokyo, a medium-sized teahouse village, sits on the western side of the glacier, on the shores of Dudh Pokhari, or Gokyo 3rd Lake. The setting is beautiful. You can visit the 4th Lake on a side hike to the north, and climb the steep trail to Gokyo Ri early the next morning for some of the most impressive views in the region. The return to Namche Bazaar is via the Gokyo valley, following the Dudh Koshi river. A good option is to break your journey at the small village of Dole, then continue beyond Namche to overnight at Monjo before the final stretch back to Lukla. 

An early morning view of beautiful blue Gokyo Lake and the guesthouses of the village, a place worth staying an extra night on the Everest Three Passes trek

Early morning at Gokyo


An early morning view of beautiful blue Gokyo Lake and the guesthouses of the village, a place worth staying an extra night on the Everest Three Passes trek

Early morning at Gokyo


Beyond Dole the trail descends towards Phortse Tenga, then climbs to Mong La, on the same route as outlined in the ‘Alternative Route via Khumjung and Phortse’ section. From Mong La it’s possible to descend all the way to Sanasa and take the same trail back to Namche that you followed on the way to Tengboche, or stay higher and follow a trail to the large Sherpa village of Khumjung before descending to Namche. The route between Namche and Lukla is the same as at the start of the trek. 

For more detail about the Everest Base Camp to Gokyo section of the route, see Days 11 – 15 of our Everest Three Passes Route Guide.

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EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING SEASON

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

TREKKING SEASON

Like many treks in Nepal, the peak seasons for trekking the Everest Base Camp route are April to mid-May and October to mid-November. These months typically offer the best chance of both clear skies and warmer temperatures, although weather patterns are becoming increasingly unpredictable in Nepal and across the world, so you should still be prepared for snow and colder temperatures during these periods.

The spring trekking season coincides with the Everest climbing season, so the Khumbu region is very busy with helicopters and yaks transporting supplies to Everest Base Camp. If trekking at this time, you will have the chance to see base camp fully set up with all the tents, and there is a great buzz about the place. Outside of the climbing season, there are no tents or any other infrastructure at EBC.

Trekkers cross the moraine-covered glacier accompanied by towering mountain views enroute to Gorak Shep on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

Trekkers crossing the moraine-covered glacier between Lobuche and Gorak Shep on a clear skies spring morning


Trekkers cross the moraine-covered glacier accompanied by towering mountain views enroute to Gorak Shep on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

Trekkers crossing the moraine-covered glacier
before Gorak Shep on a clear spring morning


In autumn, expect less wind and higher temperatures than in spring, while in late March and April, blooming rhododendrons and other spring flowers are a beautiful sight at some lower elevations.

The shoulder seasons are March, May, September and mid-November to December. During these times it can be much quieter on the trail. There is typically cold weather in March and December. In March there is a high chance of lingering or fresh snow. December typically has sunny weather and clear skies throughout the day. In late May and early September there is a higher chance of early or lingering monsoon rains and cloudy skies.

The summer months of June, July, and August coincide with the monsoon season. Trekking during this period means lots of walking in rain, muddy trails, leeches, and poor visibility with clouds obscuring the surrounding mountains. Many guesthouses close during this period, and it is not a good time to trek. Flights to and from Lukla are likely to be cancelled regularly and for days at a time.

The winter months of January and February are considered too cold by most to trek and many guesthouses are closed.

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HOW TO GET TO LUKLA

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

HOW TO GET TO LUKLA

Lukla is the gateway for all treks in the Khumbu region, including Everest Base Camp, Everest Three Passes, and Gokyo Lakes. Nestled in the mountains at 2855 m, the closest dirt-road access now extends all the way to Surke, about 600 m in elevation below and 3 km from Lukla, with a tarmac road 3+ days’ walk away. The majority of people arrive in Lukla by air, landing at the small runway or helicopter pad at Tenzing-Hillary Airport (LUA). If you prefer not to fly, it’s possible to get to Lukla overland in 2 days, by taking a bus/jeep then trekking on foot.

FLYING TO LUKLA

Flights to Lukla operate year-round from either Kathmandu or Ramechhap/Manthali (approx 4 hours’ drive from Kathmandu), although cancellations and delays are common as flights can only run in favourable weather conditions. The flight time is 30 minutes from Kathmandu, and 15 minutes from Ramechhap/Manthali. The Lukla runway is just 527 metres long and is sloped at an 11.7% gradient, making taking off and landing challenging for pilots and a little daunting for passengers.

Flights are operated by Tara (Yeti) Air, Summit Air, and Sita Air, with each company using small 15 seater twin propeller planes. Flights usually only operate in the morning, when the skies are clearer and there is less wind. There is a weight limit of 10 kg checked baggage + 5 kg hand baggage. The cabin is not pressurised and it’s very noisy. There are no assigned seats. For the best mountain views, try to sit on the left while flying to Lukla and the right on the return flight.

During peak trekking and climbing seasons, Lukla flights operate to and from Ramechhap/Manthali in order to ease congestion at Kathmandu Airport. The dates change annually, but this is roughly April 1st – May 20th and September 20th – November 20th. See below for how to get from Kathmandu to Ramechhap/Manthali.

The runway at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, sloped at an 11.7% gradient and just 527 metres long, used by the majority of trekkers flying to the Khumbu region for the Everest Base Camp, Everest Three Passes, and Gokyo Lakes treks

The runway at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, sloped at an 11.7% gradient and just 527 metres long


The runway at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla, sloped at an 11.7% gradient and just 527 metres long, used by the majority of trekkers flying to the Khumbu region for the Everest Base Camp, Everest Three Passes, and Gokyo Lakes treks

The runway at Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla,
on an 11.7% gradient and just 527 metres long


Flight tickets cost around $230 one way. You can book online directly with the airline, or via an agency in Kathmandu. If you are booking an inclusive trekking package, for example with our recommended local trekking agency Himalayan Masters, your flight will be organised for you. Booking the earliest possible flight time is best as clouds tend to move in and the wind picks up through the morning, with later flights more likely to be cancelled. Note that agencies sometimes have access to earlier flights than are available to book online.

It is free of charge to change your flight date (in advance by calling the airline or in person at the airport) and it’s a good idea to reconfirm the day before you fly to avoid being bumped onto a later flight. Again, if you have booked through a trekking agency, they can take care of any flight changes and reconfirmations for you. This makes the whole process much more straightforward than if you have booked independently (especially if you’re trying to make changes while trekking with limited phone service or internet connection).

Be aware that it can be a bit chaotic at the airport and being bumped onto a different flight time and/or standing around confused about what’s happening is pretty normal. The situation is certainly easier to manage if you are with a guide, who will be used to the process, speaks the local language, and will take care of everything for you.

FLYING TO PHAPLU/SALLERI

Sometimes when flights can’t depart for Lukla, there is an option to fly to Phaplu (2 km north of Salleri) instead. From Phaplu it’s possible to trek to Lukla in about 3 days, or you can take a jeep as far as Surke (subject to road conditions) near Lukla in 1 day.

See stages 2 and 3 in the ‘how to get to Lukla without flying’ section below for more details.

SEARCH FLIGHT OPTIONS NOW

HOW TO GET FROM KATHMANDU TO RAMECHHAP AIRPORT (MANTHALI)

You can get from Kathmandu to Ramechhap Airport (RHP) (also known as Manthali) by public bus, shuttle bus, or private car. The journey takes around 4 hours.

Public buses depart between approx 0600 – 1100 from Ratna Park (also known as Old Bus Park) near Thamel, costing approx 600 NPR  ($4.50 USD). The journey takes around 4 – 5 hours. You will need to spend one night at a guesthouse in Manthali before flying to Lukla the following morning. There are guesthouses within walking distance of Ramechhap Airport. You can just show up and buy a bus ticket on the day. Buses arrive at the Manthali Bus Park.

Shuttle buses depart from the Thamel area of Kathmandu at 0130 and 0200, allowing you to fly to Lukla the same morning. They also depart at 1100, if you prefer to travel during the day and spend one night in Manthali before flying to Lukla. The journey takes about 4 hours. You must make a reservation in advance. You can do this via a local agency, ask staff at your accommodation to help, or book online via Viator or Get Your Guide. Tickets cost up to $35 USD.


A private car costs approx 14000 NPR ($100 USD), which can be shared by up to 4 passengers. The road condition does not require a jeep/4×4 vehicle. The journey takes about 4 hours, with door-to-door service. You can book a private car via a local agency or ask staff at your accommodation to help organise it.

For the return journey from Ramechhap/Manthali to Kathmandu you must pre-arrange your shuttle transfer or private car transfer. If travelling back to Kathmandu by public bus, you should be able to get one from the Manthali Bus Park after arriving on the flight from Lukla.

HELICOPTER TO LUKLA

It is also possible to fly from Kathmandu to Lukla by helicopter. Helicopters can often fly in weather conditions that would ground twin propellor planes, they are generally considered safer, and they operate out of Kathmandu Airport year-round (unlike planes which only depart from Ramechhap/Manthali during peak season). Flying by helicopter is considerably more expensive though, costing around $500 – $600 USD one way per person (assuming there are enough people to fill five seats). You can book via a local travel or trekking agency, or book online in advance via Viator.

Snow capped mountains seen through the window of a helicopter enroute to Lukla with passengers starting the Everest Three Passes trek

Morning mountain views on the helicopter ride to Lukla


Snow capped mountains seen through the window of a helicopter enroute to Lukla with passengers starting the Everest Three Passes trek

Morning mountain views on the helicopter ride


HOW TO GET TO LUKLA WITHOUT FLYING

It’s possible to get to Lukla without flying by using a combination of bus then jeep or trekking. This takes 2 days by vehicle, or 4 – 5 days by bus then trekking. The sealed road ends at Salleri/Phaplu (3 – 4 days’ walk to Lukla), and a dirt road continues from here all the way to Surke, near Lukla. The dirt road condition can vary greatly depending on how much rain there has been. Sometimes it’s not possible to drive all the way to Surke, and you may only be able to reach an earlier settlement on the route and have to trek from there.

Although it may be possible to get all the way from Kathmandu to Surke in one day, we do not recommend this as it means travelling on a dirt road with challenging hairpin bends and steep sections in the dark. Instead, it’s advisable to spend one night in Salleri where there are lots of guesthouses and travel to Surke the following day. 

The trekking route from Salleri to Lukla goes via Ringmu, Nunthala, Kharikhola, Bupsa, Kari La (Thamdada), Paiyu and Surke. Common overnight stops are at Nunthala, Bupsa, and Surke, after which you join the classic Lukla (or Cheplung) to Namche Bazaar route. There is a lot of elevation gain and loss on the Salleri to Lukla trekking route, so expect plenty of tiring up and down. The driving route from Salleri to Thamdada goes via Adderi and joins the trekking route shortly before Kharikhola.

KATHMANDU TO LUKLA OVERLAND STAGES

STEP 1 // DRIVE KATHMANDU TO SALLERI/PHAPLU

9 – 12 hours travel time (mostly sealed road); Phaplu is about 2 km north of Salleri

Bus is approx 1700 NPR ($13 USD); departs from Chabahil Chowk (approx 0430) or from Koteshwor Chowk (approx 0500); no advance booking required. You can also search and book via 12GO.

Shared Jeep is approx 2600 NPR ($20 USD) per person; departs from Chabahil Chowk and Koteshwor Chowk (approx 0500); best to reserve seat in advance (ask local travel agency or accommodation staff)

Private Jeep is approx $280 (can be shared between up to 7 people); door-to-door service, depart any time in morning; book via a local travel/trekking agency

STEP 2 // DRIVE SALLERI/PHAPLU TO SURKE (or earlier settlement depending on road condition)

7 – 8 hours travel time (off-road)

Shared Jeep is approx 2600 NPR ($20 USD) per person; departs approx 0600; best to reserve seat in advance; (ask your accommodation owner to
book when you arrive in Salleri)

Private Jeep is approx $235 (can be shared between up to 7 people); door-to-door service, depart any time in the morning; book in advance in Kathmandu via a local travel/trekking agency

STEP 3 // TREK SURKE TO LUKLA OR CHEPLUNG

It takes about 1 hour to hike from Surke to Lukla, all uphill. You can also bypass Lukla itself and continue up the valley to Cheplung instead where you’ll join the main trail (you can get your Khumbu Trek Card from the checkpoint at Toc Toc as you will not pass the checkpoint at Lukla)

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EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK PERMIT AND FEES

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

PERMIT AND FEES

You need two permits for the Everest Base Camp trek. Both are issued locally in the Khumbu region so you don’t need to organise permits in advance in Kathmandu. You will need your passport and the fee in cash in Nepalese rupees.

Keep your permits in a safe place as you will need to show them at various checkpoints during the trek.

KHUMBU TREK CARD

3000 NPR
(SAARC and Chinese nationals 2000 NPR)

Issued at checkpoint (Lukla or Toc Toc)

SAGARMATHA NATIONAL PARK FEE

3000 NPR

(1500 NPR SAARC nationals/
100 NPR Nepali nationals)

Pay at checkpoint in Lukla
or NP entrance beyond Monjo


TREKKING EVEREST BASE CAMP INDEPENDENTLY

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

TREKKING INDEPENDENTLY

The Nepal Tourism Board announced on March 9th 2023 that as of April 1st 2023, all international trekkers in Nepal are required to hire a licenced trekking guide and obtain the TIMS card through an authorised trekking agency registered with the government of Nepal.

However, the Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality has confirmed that it is NOT mandatory to trek with a guide in the Khumbu region. This means that you do not need to have a guide for the Everest Base Camp trek, or indeed for any other trek in the region such as the Gokyo Lakes or Three Passes treks. We have included copies of the official press release from April 2nd 2023 and an info card from September 2023 stating that a guide is not mandatory in the Khumbu region. You can check the Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality Facebook page for any further updates.

Khumbu Press Release April 2023 with information for those planning to trek in the Everest region

An informational graphic about the Khumbu Trek Card and National Park Fees for those trekking in the Everest Region

PROS AND CONS OF INDEPENDENT TREKKING IN NEPAL

While having a guide in the Khumbu region is not mandatory, this does not mean that trekking to EBC independently is the right decision for you, especially if you are an inexperienced high altitude trekker. If you are thinking about doing the Everest Base camp trek without a guide, here are a few thoughts on the pros and cons of independent trekking in Nepal. 

PROS

This is the cheapest way to trek to Everest Base Camp. You won’t have to pay for anything extra beyond your daily food and accommodation costs, permit fee, and transport to/from the trailhead.

You have complete freedom and flexibility. You can choose how long to trek for each day, what route to take and where to stay. If you like somewhere, you can choose to stay an extra day without having to consult anyone else or consider their needs.

It is easier to enjoy a bit of ‘alone time’ on the trail. If you are trekking with a guide or group it can be harder or more awkward to branch out and enjoy walking alone with your thoughts.

You’ll likely have more interaction with locals. If you are trekking with a guide it is common practice for them to deal with everything at your guesthouse and act as a go-between. It’s normal for your guide to take your order, bring out your food, and settle up the bill on your behalf, which means you may have little interaction with the owner or staff yourself. But, you’ll be doing all that by yourself if you trek independently.

CONS

With freedom and flexibility comes more responsibility and the need to do more research, preparation and daily planning. You will need to spend time organising things both on and off the trail. You will need to sort out all the logistics like your permit, transport, and accommodation by yourself, and be confident in your route planning and navigation. 

You are more vulnerable in an emergency situation or if you get sick. This is especially true if you are trekking solo. You should prepare as best you can with a comprehensive medical kit, emergency contact numbers at the ready, and ideally an emergency communication device like the Garmin inReach.

In peak trekking season you may find it harder to get a room. Many guesthouses prefer bigger groups with organised companies and will give preference to them over independent solo trekkers or those in small groups. Generally speaking, guesthouse owners prefer dealing with guides over individual trekkers as there’s no language barrier and guides just know the score of how things work. Guides with existing local contacts often call ahead to book rooms, something which isn’t as easy for independent trekkers with no personal contacts. Tengboche, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep all have limited accommodation options and it’s not uncommon for guesthouses here to be full during the peak seasons. 

You miss out on all the insights a knowledgeable, English speaking guide can offer. Your understanding of the region, and Nepal in general, is likely to be much broader after spending two weeks in the company of a Nepali guide rather than going it alone.


PROS

This is the cheapest way to trek the Everest Base Camp. You won’t have to pay for anything extra beyond your daily food and accommodation costs, permit fee, and transport to/from the trailhead. 

You have complete freedom and flexibility. You can choose how long to trek for each day, what route to take and where to stay. If you like somewhere, you can choose to stay an extra day without having to consult anyone else or consider their needs. 

It is easier to enjoy a bit of ‘alone time’ on the trail. If you are trekking with a guide or group it can be harder or more awkward to branch out and enjoy walking alone with your thoughts. 

You’ll likely have more interaction with locals. If you are trekking with a guide it is common practice for them to deal with everything at your guesthouse and act as a go-between. It’s normal for your guide to take your order, bring out your food, and settle up the bill on your behalf, which means you may have little interaction with the owner or staff yourself. But, you’ll be doing all that by yourself if you trek independently.

CONS

With freedom and flexibility comes more responsibility and the need to do more research, preparation and daily planning. You will need to spend time organising things both on and off the trail. You will need to sort out all the logistics like your permit, transport, and accommodation by yourself, and be confident in your route planning and navigation. 

You are more vulnerable in an emergency situation or if you get sick. This is especially true if you are trekking solo. You should prepare as best you can with a comprehensive medical kit, emergency contact numbers at the ready, and ideally an emergency communication device like the Garmin inReach.

In peak trekking season you may find it harder to get a room. Many guesthouses prefer bigger groups with organised companies and will give preference to them over independent solo trekkers or those in small groups. Generally speaking, guesthouse owners prefer dealing with guides over individual trekkers as there’s no language barrier and guides just know the score of how things work. Guides with existing local contacts often call ahead to book rooms, something which isn’t as easy for independent trekkers with no personal contacts. Tengboche, Lobuche, and Gorak Shep all have limited accommodation options and it’s not uncommon for guesthouses here to be full during the peak seasons.

You miss out on all the insights a knowledgeable, English speaking guide can offer. Your understanding of the region, and Nepal in general, is likely to be much broader after spending two weeks in the company of a Nepali guide rather than going it alone.


TREKKING EVEREST BASE CAMP WITH A GUIDE (AND PORTER)

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

TREKKING WITH A GUIDE (AND PORTER)

Although not mandatory, many people choose to do the Everest Base Camp trek with a guide, and often with a porter too. If you are an inexperienced high altitude trekker we would absolutely recommend hiring a guide for this trek, but even if you are experienced, trekking with a guide is a great option. Not only can a guide be invaluable when it comes to your safety, a guide can also enrich your experience on the trail, giving you the opportunity to learn more about the history, culture, and geography of the land. Hiring a porter to carry your bag will put less strain on your body, making your trek much easier and perhaps allowing you to better enjoy the surroundings. Hiring a guide and/or porter also provides jobs and supports the trekking tourism economy.

One guide can accompany a maximum of seven trekkers, but would usually limit this to five. A porter shouldn’t be asked to carry more than 25 kg, ideally no more than 20 kg. If you pack appropriately, one porter can carry two trekkers’ bags. Ensure that your guide and porter have appropriate clothing and equipment for the trail, including warm clothing for high altitudes (a down jacket, hat, gloves), boots, sunglasses, and waterproofs.

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN TREKKING WITH A GUIDE

If you are doing the Everest Base Camp trek with a guide you may meet them in either Kathmandu or Lukla. If you meet in Kathmandu, you will travel to the trailhead together and return to Kathmandu together at the end. Professional guides in Nepal are both licenced and insured, and will speak English (sometimes other languages too).

During your trek a guide will walk with you on the trail, suggest the best spots to stop for lunch, and take you to their recommended overnight accommodation. At busy times, they will likely call ahead and pre-book a room for you. They will act as your go-between at each guesthouse, arranging your room, taking your food orders, and settling the bill. It’s normal for a guide to run through the following day’s itinerary each evening, giving you an overview of the trail, trekking time, and any other relevant information.

A trekker and guide chatting and smiling as they walk along sunny forest trail on the Everest Base Camp Trek

A guide can help with many practical things, provide insight into local culture, and be a good companion on the trail


A trekker and guide chatting and smiling as they walk along sunny forest trail on the Everest Base Camp Trek

A guide can help with many practical things,
provide insight into local culture, and be a
good companion on the trail


Your guide will always be around at your guesthouse, but they won’t stick by you constantly. You will have plenty of freedom to hang out in your room or the dining room, read your book, chat with other guests, play cards, etc. Guides sleep and eat in the same guesthouse as you, always in a separate room. A guide’s meals and accommodation are usually provided free of charge by guesthouses in exchange for their trekking clients’ custom. If a guesthouse is busy, your guide may share a room with other guides or be obliged to sleep in the dining room.

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN TREKKING WITH A PORTER

If you’re doing the Everest Base Camp trek with a porter, you will usually meet them locally at the start of your trek. It is not common for porters to travel with you from Kathmandu due to the expense of getting to/from the Khumbu region. Trekking agencies usually have a pool of porters that they work with regularly and can arrange a porter as part of any trekking package. As porters usually do not speak English, your guide will communicate and organise the day-to-day logistics with your porter during the trek.

Porters often go at their own pace so you won’t always trek with them. It’s common to pack your bag and have it ready for them before breakfast, and for your bag to already be in your room when you arrive at your guesthouse for the evening.

A porter carrying a heavy bag aided by a supporting head strap crosses a suspension bridge on the Everest Base Camp Trek

A porter putting in the hard work on the Everest Base Camp Trek


A porter carrying a heavy bag aided by a supporting head strap crosses a suspension bridge on the Everest Base Camp Trek

A porter putting in the hard work
on the Everest Base Camp Trek


CONDITIONS FOR PORTERS IN THE KHUMBU REGION

Conditions for trekking porters across Nepal are far from ideal, however they are particularly poor in the Khumbu region. Unlike in other trekking regions, guesthouse owners in the Khumbu do not permit porters to sleep or eat in their guesthouses alongside trekkers and guides (with the exception of a rare few based on our own experience). Instead, porters sleep and eat at designated Nepali hotels or porter shelters in each village or teahouse settlement in the Khumbu region. Also, unlike in other regions, porters in the Khumbu must pay for their meals, with a large proportion of their daily wage being spent on food.

The conditions in which porters sleep, often in one dormitory-style room with up to 100 or more porters, are much more basic than those experienced by trekkers and guides in guesthouses. Sometimes porter accommodation is full, and porters must walk to a different village to find available accommodation, returning to meet their trekking clients in the morning. This is especially common at Lobuche and Gorak Shep, where limited accommodation means that porters often have to walk for hours, back to Thukla or Pheriche to spend the night before returning early the next morning.

You can read more in the informative paper ‘Uphill Struggle: Impediments and Facilitators to Porter Health in the Khumbu Region’ by Nate Barott (2018).

Porters stop for a break in the courtyard of a lunch establishment at Lawi Schyasa, between Namche Bazaar and Tengboche on the Everest Base Camp Trek

Porters stop for a break at Lawi Schyasa, between Namche Bazaar and Tengboche on the Everest Base Camp trail


Porters stop for a break in the courtyard of a lunch establishment at Lawi Schyasa, between Namche Bazaar and Tengboche on the Everest Base Camp Trek

Porters stop for a break at Lawi Schyasa,
between Namche Bazaar and Tengboche
on the Everest Base Camp trail


HOW TO ORGANISE AN EVEREST BASE CAMP TREKKING GUIDE (AND PORTER)

The easiest way to arrange a trekking guide is via a trekking agency. You can book an inclusive Everest Base Camp trekking package which covers your transport, entrance fees, guide (and porter), accommodation costs, and three meals a day. Alternatively, you can pay for a guide (and porter) only, and then pay-as-you-go for your accommodation, food, transport, and entrance fees (although this involves more day-to-day hassle than opting for an inclusive package).

Choosing a trekking agency is often the trickiest part as there are thousands of registered agencies in Nepal and the quality of service can vary greatly between them. Many trekkers will choose a guide or agency based on a trusted recommendation from a friend or fellow trekker, and this is a good approach. An alternative option is to visit a number of trekking agencies in person when you arrive in Thamel (Kathmandu) to get a feel for a company that you like, or to contact agencies online in advance.

OUR RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY

Having trekked with three different agencies and three different guides on three visits to Nepal, our best experience has been with Himalayan Masters. We partnered with them for our Langtang, Gosainkunda Helambu, and Everest Base Camp and Three Passes treks, and found them to be very professional, committed to a high level of service, and competitively priced. Their 12 day Everest Base Camp trek costs from $1640, and their 16 day Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes trek costs from $1720, plus you can get a 5% discount with our code HOGG5.

We really appreciate the fact that Sandip, the agency owner, is super flexible when it comes to itinerary amendments that don’t just follow the norm, enabling you to customise an itinerary to include extra acclimatisation days or alternative trekking routes like the ones outlined in this guide. He’s also a problem solver and what we’d call a real ‘go-getter’, a trait that’s highly valuable to his clients, whether he’s retrieving a swallowed bank card from a Thamel ATM in record time, or fixing logistical issues when things go wrong last minute at 2am (both real life examples experienced by us or fellow Himalayan Masters clients we met on the trail!). Sandip genuinely understands the importance of looking after both his trekking clients and his guides for the continued success of his own business, which ultimately leads to a great trek experience for you.

We’d also highly recommend our Himalayan Masters guide, Govinda Rai, who we spent over a month trekking with in Nepal. He is very professional, taking care of everything you would expect from a guide, but also tailoring his suggestions and advice specifically to his clients, resulting in a more enjoyable trekking experience overall. We quickly came to trust his choices for lunch stops and accommodation as we felt they were always among the best options available. His knowledge of the trail was excellent, and his advice on trekking times for each day (based on our own pace) was spot-on, making it easier for us to plan our itinerary and make on-the-go changes as we saw fit. And on a personal level, we found Govinda to be easy-going, friendly, and an all-round great person to spend time with.

Govinda Rai, a trekking guide for Himalayan Masters, laughing and smiling in front of colourful prayer flags at the top of Kyanjin Ri (4856 m) on the Langtang Valley trek

Govinda, our Himalayan Masters guide


Govinda Rai, a trekking guide for Himalayan Masters, laughing and smiling in front of colourful prayer flags at the top of Kyanjin Ri (4856 m) on the Langtang Valley trek

Govinda, our Himalayan Masters guide


We also met a number of other Himalayan Masters guides while out on the trail, including Dipak who we chatted with lots, as our Langtang Valley trek itinerary coincided for three nights at the same guesthouses. From our interactions with Dipak, and positive feedback shared over dining room chats with his two trekking clients, we’re confident that Himalayan Masters are working with great guides across the board.

In addition to our guide, Govinda, we’d also highly recommend our porter, Prakas Tamang, organised last minute for us by Himalayan Masters when we decided not to carry our own bags for the first time.. He knows the trail inside out, portering on the Everest Base Camp route, along with various others in the Khumbu region, multiple times a season. We felt he went above and beyond his role as a trekking porter, especially when breaking trail for us in snowy conditions while crossing Ngozumpa Glacier and Renjo La on our Three Passes route.

To discuss your Everest Base Camp trek you can get in touch with Himalayan Masters at info@himalayan-masters.com and you’ll get a 5% discount off your trip cost by using our code HOGG5.

BOOK WITH HIMALAYAN MASTERS

HOW ABOUT TACKLING THE MANASLU CIRCUIT?

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE


DAY BY DAY ACCOUNT


ACCOMMODATION ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation on the Everest Base Camp trek is in the form of guesthouses, also known as teahouses or lodges. These can be found regularly along the trail in local villages (such as Namche Bazaar and Dingboche) or in guesthouse-only settlements (such as Lobuche and Gorak Shep). In general, the standard of accommodation is decent on the EBC trek, but it becomes more basic at higher altitude, with accommodation at Gorak Shep (5160 m) the most basic (and the toilets the most unpleasant) of the whole trek.

Snow capped Pumori occupies the background while blue roofed guesthouses occupy the foreground in the dry rocky landscape at Gorak Shep, the highest settlement trekkers stay at on the Everest Base Camp Trek

The accommodation at Gorak Shep (5160 m) is the most basic on the Everest Base Camp Trek, but the mountain views are spectacular


Snow capped Pumori occupies the background while blue roofed guesthouses occupy the foreground in the dry rocky landscape at Gorak Shep, the highest settlement trekkers stay at on the Everest Base Camp Trek

The accommodation at Gorak Shep (5160 m) is the
most basic on the Everest Base Camp Trek, but the
mountain views are spectacular


Guesthouses provide both accommodation and meals, and you are expected to eat dinner and breakfast at the guesthouse you sleep at. Lunch is usually at a different guesthouse along the trail, unless you arrive early at your destination for the day.

ROOMS

Rooms are basic, but comfortable. They usually have two single beds, although some places will have rooms sleeping three, or just one. Beds always have a sheet-covered mattress, a pillow with a pillowcase, and a blanket. We have seen plenty of bedding hanging out to dry which would suggest sheets, pillowcases, and blankets do get washed, however there is no guarantee that they will be freshly laundered for each guest. Personally, we always trek with our own sleeping bag and silk liner, using the blanket over our sleeping bag for extra warmth at higher altitudes.

There is always a light in the room, powered by mains electricity or solar. Often there is a small table, some hooks on the wall, and a bin, and there is almost always a window with curtains. Some guesthouses will have charging sockets in the room, but this is not always the case. There is no heating in guesthouse rooms, only ever in the main dining room.

DINING ROOM

Every guesthouse has a dining room where you can eat your meals, drink tea, and hang out. There are usually tables and benches around the perimeter of the room, with plenty of plastic chairs for huddling around the central stove. Expect to see a display cabinet of snacks and sundries for sale (eg. chocolate bars, biscuits, Pringles, toilet paper, soft drinks), and often a Buddhist prayer altar, too. The dining room is the only room with a stove. This is usually lit in the late afternoon or early evening as the sun goes down and it starts to get cold, making it nice and cosy.

People being served breakfast in a guesthouse dining room in Dragnag (Thangnak), a village on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp + Gokyo Lakes trekking routes

The dining room of Mountain Paradise Lodge in Dragnag/Thangnak on the Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes Trek


People being served breakfast in a guesthouse dining room in Dragnag (Thangnak), a village on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp + Gokyo Lakes trekking routes

The dining room of Mountain Paradise Lodge in
Dragnag/Thangnak, a small teahouse settlement
on the Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes Trek


TOILETS AND SHOWERS

There are usually rooms with attached bathrooms (ensuite) available as far as Dingboche. After Dingboche, rooms with shared (common) bathrooms are generally all that is available. If you have an attached bathroom this will usually have a toilet, sink (not always), and shower. Shared bathroom facilities normally consist of separate toilets and shower rooms, with a sink outside, although sometimes there is no dedicated sink and you’ll need to wash your hands/brush your teeth at an outdoor tap.

Toilets may be sit-down or squat style. Toilet paper is never provided, so you’ll need to pack your own and buy more as you go. Do not flush toilet paper down the toilet, always put it in the bin next to the toilet (this may be an old tin can, a cardboard box, a plastic container, or such like.) Sit-down toilets will likely have an automatic flush, although at higher altitudes in cold weather, the pipes can freeze and you may need to flush the toilet using a bucket of water. Squat toilets never have an automatic flush; you always need to flush using the scoop and bucket of water provided.

A gas shower is usually available although sometimes the water is solar heated. If neither are available, guesthouses can provide a bucket of hot water which you can use to wash. You can expect to pay up to 800 NPR for any kind of hot water shower at guesthouses between Namche Bazaar and Lobuche. There are no shower facilities at Gorak Shep.

COME JOIN US ON INSTAGRAM

FOOD ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

FOOD AND DRINK

Every guesthouse serves meals and you are expected to eat dinner and breakfast at the guesthouse you are sleeping at, otherwise the cost of the room will be much higher. There are also a few bakeries, coffee shops, and tea shops along the route where you can pop in for treats.

Every guesthouse has a menu, and the options for breakfast, lunch, and dinner are similar at each. Prices increase the higher you go as food and fuel needs to be transported further via porters or pack animals, resulting in additional costs. Meat is on the menu at most guesthouses (usually buffalo, yak, or chicken), but it’s advisable to stick to vegetarian food; meat is not usually fresh or kept refrigerated and the chance of getting an upset stomach is much greater if you eat it.

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK MENU

Click into the slider to see a typical example of a menu on the Everest Base Camp trek. This menu is from Dingboche, where prices are more expensive than at lower altitudes but fairly representative of prices above 4000 m.

We have included photos of the menu from every guesthouse that we stayed at on the Everest Base Camp trek in our accompanying map.

  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
  • Everest Three Passes and Base Camp treks; food and drink menu from the Mountain Heritage Inn in Dingboche
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BREAKFAST

Breakfast dishes include porridge, muesli, eggs, Tibetan bread (a kind of fried dough), chapati (flat, unleavened bread), and pancakes. Honey, jam, peanut butter, apples, chocolate sauce, and yak cheese are common accompaniments on offer.

Breakfast options are generally priced between 300 – 1200 NPR (approx $2 – $9 USD), depending on location and item.

LUNCH AND DINNER

Dal Bhat is a ubiquitous Nepali meal, eaten twice a day by many locals. It consists of plain rice, a lentil soup, veggie curry, papad (poppadom), and some sort of pickle. Depending on the veggies available, you may also get saag (spinach) or something similar. Everything is served on a big plate, and you can get free refills of each item (apart from the papad!).

A serving of classic Nepali dish dal bhat on a brass plate, sitting on a peach coloured wooden table

There are always free refills of rice, dal and curry with Dal Bhat, giving rise to the familiar catchphrase ‘Dal Bhat power 24 hour’


Dal Bhat, the national dish of Nepal, on a copper dish set on a blue wooden table

With Dal Bhat, there are always free refills of
at least the rice, dal and curry, giving rise to the
familiar catchphrase, ‘Dal Bhat power 24 hour’


Other options include various soups (some fresh, some from a packet), basic pasta dishes (usually fried), fried rice, fried noodles, boiled or fried potatoes, and momos (steamed or fried dumplings). Ingredients more or less revolve around eggs, cheese, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, onion, garlic, and tinned tuna.

Lunch and dinner options are generally priced between 350 – 1200 NPR (approx $2.5 – $9 USD), depending on location and item.

DRINKS

Various hot drinks include black/green/milk/masala/mint/ginger lemon honey tea, instant coffee, and hot chocolate. You can order a single cup or a small/medium/large thermos (called ‘pots’). Cups or pots of hot water are also available.

Soft drinks like Coke, Fanta, and Sprite are available to buy at each guesthouse shop, along with bottled water (although we recommend purifying tap water to drink instead of buying bottled water). You can also buy beer (bottles/cans) and small bottles of Khukuri rum, however it’s best to avoid alcohol at higher altitudes as this dehydrates you and makes acclimatisation more difficult.

Hot drinks are on average about 80 – 350 NPR per cup ($0.60 – $2.60 USD), or up to 800 – 3000 NPR per large pot ($6 – $22 USD). Soft drinks are about 300 – 600 NPR ($2.30 – $4.50 USD), bottled water is about 100 – 500 NPR ($0.75 – $3.80 USD), and beer is about 800 – 1200 NPR ($6 – $9 USD).

SNACKS AND DESSERTS

You can buy chocolate bars, biscuits, and Pringles at most guesthouse shops. Other snacks like popcorn, papad, prawn crackers, yak cheese, or french fries are often available on the menu, and you can usually get desserts like apple, Snickers, or Mars spring rolls/fritters/pies/momos.

The snacks, drinks and sundries on sale at the Ganesh View Hotel in Rimche on the Langtang Valley trek

A typical example of what’s on sale in guesthouses 


The snacks, drinks and sundries on sale at the Ganesh View Hotel in Rimche on the Langtang Valley trek

A fairly typical example of what’s on sale


Prices for Snickers/Mars start from 300 NPR ($2.30 USD), packets of biscuits start from 100 NPR ($.75 USD), and Pringles start from 600 NPR ($4.5 USD). Desserts range from 350 – 900 NPR ($2.70 – $6.80 USD).

BAKERIES AND COFFEE SHOPS

You’ll find bakeries and coffee shops (some with even proper coffee machines!) in various villages along the Everest Base Camp trekking route. These include Namche Bazaar, Tengboche and Dingboche. Common bakery treats include brownies, cinnamon buns, and apple pie. A few bakeries in Dingboche also show mountain-related films every afternoon.

Coffee costs around 300 – 400 NPR ($2.20 – $3 USD); bakery treats are usually around 400 – 600 NPR ($3 – $4.5 USD).

FANCY THE BIGGEST TREKKING CHALLENGE IN THE KHUMBU REGION?

Link image for the Everest Three Passes trek guide featuring a hiker and guide crossing a flat, rocky section before Kongma La

PLAN YOUR TREK WITH OUR GUIDE


Link image for the Everest Three Passes route guide featuring trekkers crossing the glacier towards Cho La, the middle of the three passes on the Everest Three Passes trek

TRAIL NOTES AND OTHER INFO


SAFE DRINKING WATER ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

SAFE DRINKING WATER

Bottled water is available to buy along the trail, however a much better option (environmentally and economically!) is to treat tap water and drink this instead. Come prepared with a refillable water bottle and/or water bladder, and a method of treating the water to make it safe for drinking.

The cheapest option is to use water purification tablets. You drop these into the water, wait about 30 minutes, then your water is safe to drink (although it can have a strange taste due to the active chemical in the tablets, ie. iodine or chlorine). You can buy these easily in supermarkets and outdoor shops in Kathmandu.

Our preferred method of water sterilisation is to use a Steripen Ultra in conjunction with a filter. The filter screws onto the top of our Nalgene water bottle and ensures any weird floaty bits or particulates are filtered out. Then we stick the Steripen into 1 litre of water for 90 seconds and the UV light sterilises the water, making it safe to drink immediately and with no change to the taste. The Steripen Ultra model is rechargeable via USB, so we can charge it using our solar panel, power bank, or an electrical socket. We always carry water purification tablets as an emergency backup, although we’ve never had to use them during 9+ years of using the Steripen.

A Lifestraw water bottle for safe drinking water


A Steripen Ultra sterilises water to make it safe for drinking


water purification tablets to make drinking water safe


Other common sterilisation methods include a Lifestraw, Grayl, or a squeeze filter system.

As pipes can freeze overnight at higher altitudes, be sure to fill water for the following day before going to bed. There is usually a tap where you can fill your water bottle, but if not your guesthouse owner/staff can fill it for you from their water storage container.

The only place on the Everest Base Camp trek where it is not possible/advisable to drink the local water is at Gorak Shep. There is no good water supply here. The local guesthouses have to fill water from a questionable spring and store it in containers for use in the kitchen. Given the scarcity of water and the effort involved to carry it to the guesthouse, staff will not fill your bottle for you. The only option is to buy bottled water (500 NPR) or do as we did and carry enough water with you from Lobuche. Given the poor water supply and likely less than ideal hygiene standards at high altitude Gorak Shep (5160 m), it is not uncommon for people to get sick here. We would advise caution with what you order, perhaps avoiding hot drinks (which may not have been properly boiled).

WIFI, PHONE SIGNAL, AND CHARGING ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

WIFI, PHONE SIGNAL, AND CHARGING

Nepal Telecom SIM cards work best on the Everest Base Camp trek. With NTC you’ll have a phone signal and usually a data connection for most of the trek between Lukla and Pangboche. You’re unlikely to get much of a signal beyond here.

Arranging a Nepal e-SIM for data only use is an easy alternative to buying a physical SIM card in Kathmandu, and enables you to get connected from the moment you land at the airport. Holafly offer unlimited data packages up to 30 days (use our code GTWH for a 5% discount!), as do Airalo.

WiFi is available at most guesthouses and bakeries along the trail. Between Lukla and Pangboche the usual WiFi cost for unlimited use at a guesthouse is around 300 NPR ($2.30 USD), although sometimes it’s free. Beyond Pangboche you can connect to the internet via Airlink. To do so you buy a card with an individual access code and this costs 600 – 700 NPR for 24 hours. Poor weather conditions can affect WiFi connectivity so there are no guarantees it will be working 24/7.

Most guesthouses run off solar power, and free in-room charging isn’t usually available. Instead you pay per device, charging in the dining room. Prices increase the higher you go, with one phone battery full charge costing between 200 – 800 NPR ($1.50 – $6 USD), and a power bank full charge costing between 1000 – 2000 NPR ($7.60 – $15 USD). Some guesthouses do offer free in-room charging (and a hot shower) if you are paying for a more expensive room with an attached bathroom. Depending on how many devices/batteries you need to charge, paying for the more expensive room can sometimes work out better value overall. Some coffee shops (notably in Dingboche) offer free phone charging with the purchase of food or drink.

Cafe 4410, a sizeable coffee shop/cafe on the main thoroughfare in Dingboche, a village where most trekkers spend two nights on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

One of the cafes in Dingboche offering free phone/battery charging for customers


Cafe 4410, a sizeable coffee shop/cafe on the main thoroughfare in Dingboche, a village where most trekkers spend two nights on the Everest Three Passes and Everest Base Camp treks

One of the cafes in Dingboche offering free
phone/battery charging for customers


It’s definitely a good idea to pack a power bank (or two, depending on your usage), enabling you to charge your phone and batteries on-the-go. A portable solar panel allows you to charge your devices for free in sunny conditions, and may be worth buying if you’ll continue to use it on future trips.

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK COST AND BUDGET

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

COSTS AND BUDGET

The cost of your Everest Base Camp trek will very much depend on how you choose to trek (independently or with a guide), your chosen route and itinerary, how many people you share the costs with, how much you eat and drink, and how often you want to have a hot shower, connect to the internet, or charge your devices.

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK BUDGET SUMMARY

An inclusive Everest Base Camp trekking package with a local agency usually works out at around $110 – $135 per day. Himalayan Masters 12 day Everest Base Camp trek costs from $1640, and their 16 day Everest Base Camp and Gokyo Lakes trek costs from $1720, less a 5% discount if you mention our code HOGG5. This normally covers your accommodation during the trek in a mixture of rooms with attached and shared bathrooms, three meals and three hot drinks per trekking day, a guide and porter, internal flights, all airport transfers, all permits, and three nights accommodation in Kathmandu. 

You will need to pay for any extras during your trek such as hot showers, charging devices, WiFi, and snacks – budget about $20 per day to cover all of this. You should also budget for a tip for your guide and porter.

An independent trekker with a mid-range budget (travelling without a guide or porter) could expect to pay around $65 – $70 per day on the EBC trek. This would cover flights to and from Lukla, your permits, accommodation in a mixture of rooms with attached and shared bathrooms, three meals and three hot drinks plus one treat a day (such as a Coke, Snickers, or real coffee), connecting to WiFi, charging a power bank, and having a hot shower every other day, and charging a phone or camera battery every day.

The absolute minimum that we estimate a budget independent trekker could spend on the Everest Base Camp trek is about $35 per day. This would mean trekking without a guide or porter, opting to travel overland by public transport (minimum 16 days required Kathmandu to Kathmandu), sharing a twin room and using shared bathroom facilities every night, eating three simple meals a day with no snacks or treats, and not paying for any WiFi, hot showers, or device charging.

DETAILED EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK BUDGET

Below is a complete breakdown of the average costs for an Everest Base Camp trek. This should allow you to plan your budget according to your own style of trekking. We have calculated these costs based on the actual prices charged at each guesthouse we stayed at, averaged out over an 11 night/12 day itinerary as outlined in our Classic Everest Base Camp Itinerary table above.

TRANSPORT COSTS

To Lukla

Flight: Kathmandu < > Lukla; approx $230 (one way) 

Flight: Ramechhap  < > Lukla; approx $210 (one way)

Helicopter: Kathmandu < > Lukla; approx $500 – $600 (one way)

Kathmandu to Ramechhap

Local Bus: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; 600 NPR ($4.50) (one way)

Shuttle Bus: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; $30 (one way)

Private Car: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; 14000 NPR ($100) (one way) (cost can be shared among 4 people)

Kathmandu to Salleri

Local Bus: Kathmandu < > Salleri; 1700 NPR ($13) (one way)

Shared Jeep: Kathmandu < > Salleri; 2600 NPR ($20) (one way)

Private Jeep: Kathmandu < > Salleri; $250 (one way) (cost can be shared among 7 people)

Salleri to Surke

Shared Jeep: Salleri < > Surke; 2600 NPR ($20) (one way)

Private Jeep: Salleri < > Surke; $235 (one way) (cost can be shared among 7 people)

PERMITS/ENTRANCE FEES

3000 NPR ($15) Khumbu Trek Card
(2000 NPR SAARC and Chinese nationals)

3000 NPR ($23) Sagarmatha National Park Fee
(1500 NPR SAARC nationals / 100 NPR Nepali nationals)

ACCOMMODATION

Twin Room with attached bathroom: 1000 – 1500 NPR ($7.50 – $11) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

Twin Room with shared bathroom: 500 – 1000 NPR ($3.80 – $7.50) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

11 nights twin room with shared bathroom average cost 750 NPR ($5.70) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

11 nights twin room with attached bathroom where possible average cost 1200 NPR ($9) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

FOOD COSTS

3 x meals with hot drinks, average 3150 NPR ($24 USD) per person, per day

Costs based on 1 x chapati with omelette (breakfast) + 2 x dal bhat (lunch and dinner) + 3 x masala tea per day

It will cost extra if you want to have soft drinks, snacks, desserts, etc.

For a detailed look at food prices, check out the menus for each guesthouse we stayed at in our Everest Base Camp map

WIFI COSTS

Average 500 NPR ($3.80) per day (if using wifi every day)

PHONE/CAMERA BATTERY CHARGING COSTS

Average 400 NPR ($3) per day (if charging one phone or camera battery every day)

POWER BANK CHARGING COSTS

Average 550 NPR ($4) per day (if charging one power bank every day)

HOT SHOWER COSTS

Average 550 NPR ($4) per day (if taking a hot shower every day)

TREKKING GUIDE

$20 – $30 USD per day (cost can be shared with up to 5 people)

PORTER

$18 – $25 USD per day (max weight carried 25 kg, cost can be shared between 2-3 people)

GUIDE AND PORTER TIPS

Guides and porters rely on tips to supplement their daily wage and it is expected that you tip at the end of your trek

Recommended minimum amount is:

Guide / tip $15 – $20 per day total for your group
or 10% – 15% of your trek cost if trekking solo

Porter / tip $10 – $15 per day total for your group
or $5 per day if trekking solo

Tips should be given individually to your guide and porter in cash in NPR or USD.
Tip them discreetly at the end of your trek, handing over the money
as a folded wad or in an envelope, using your right or both hands.

TRANSPORT COSTS

To Lukla

Flight: Kathmandu < > Lukla; approx $230 (one way) 

Flight: Ramechhap  < > Lukla; approx $210 (one way)

Helicopter: Kathmandu < > Lukla; approx $500 – $600 (one way)

Kathmandu to Ramechhap

Local Bus: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; 600 NPR ($4.50) (one way)

Shuttle Bus: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; $30 (one way)

Private Car: Kathmandu < > Ramechhap; 14000 NPR ($100) (one way) (cost can be shared among 4 people)

Kathmandu to Salleri

Local Bus: Kathmandu < > Salleri; 1700 NPR ($13) (one way)

Shared Jeep: Kathmandu < > Salleri; 2600 NPR ($20) (one way)

Private Jeep: Kathmandu < > Salleri; $250 (one way) (cost can be shared among 7 people)

Salleri to Surke

Shared Jeep: Salleri < > Surke; 2600 NPR ($20) (one way)

Private Jeep: Salleri < > Surke; $235 (one way) (cost can be shared among 7 people)

PERMITS/ENTRANCE FEES

3000 NPR ($15) Khumbu Trek Card
(2000 NPR SAARC and Chinese nationals)

3000 NPR ($23) Sagarmatha National Park Fee
(1500 NPR SAARC nationals / 100 NPR Nepali nationals)

ACCOMMODATION

Twin Room with attached bathroom: 1000 – 1500 NPR ($7.50 – $11) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

Twin Room with shared bathroom: 500 – 1000 NPR ($3.80 – $7.50) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

11 nights twin room with shared bathroom average cost 750 NPR ($5.70) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

11 nights twin room with attached bathroom where possible average cost 1200 NPR ($9) per night (cost can be shared between 2 people)

FOOD COSTS

3 x meals with hot drinks, average 3150 NPR ($24 USD) per person, per day

Costs based on 1 x chapati with omelette (breakfast) + 2 x dal bhat (lunch and dinner) + 3 x masala tea per day

It will cost extra if you want to have soft drinks, snacks, desserts, etc.

For a detailed look at food prices, check out the menus for each guesthouse we stayed at in our Everest Base Camp map

WIFI COSTS

Average 500 NPR ($3.80) per day (if using wifi every day)

PHONE/CAMERA BATTERY CHARGING

Average 400 NPR ($3) per day (if charging one phone or camera battery every day)

POWER BANK CHARGING

Average 550 NPR ($4) per day (if charging one power bank every day)

HOT SHOWER COSTS

Average 550 NPR ($4) per day (if taking a hot shower every day)

TREKKING GUIDE

$20 – $30 USD per day (cost can be shared with up to 5 people)

PORTER

$18 – $25 USD per day (max weight carried 25 kg, cost can be shared between 2-3 people)

GUIDE AND PORTER TIPS

Guides and porters rely on tips to supplement their daily wage and it is expected that you tip at the end of your trek

Recommended minimum amount is:

Guide / tip $15 – $20 per day total for your group
or 10% – 15% of your trek cost if trekking solo

Porter / tip $10 – $15 per day total for your group
or $5 per day if trekking solo

Tips should be given individually to your guide and porter in cash in NPR or USD.
Tip them discreetly at the end of your trek, handing over the money
as a folded wad or in an envelope, using your right or both hands.


MONEY AND ATMs ON THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

MONEY AND ATMs

You will pay for everything in cash on your Everest Base Camp trek. It is best to bring all the cash you need from Kathmandu, in Nepalese rupees. There are ATMs in Lukla and Namche Bazaar, but we advise you to think of these as emergency ATMs only and not to rely upon them. It’s a good idea to have a mixture of large and small bills, as guesthouses, shops, and bakeries don’t always have change.

ATMs in Nepal have maximum withdrawal limits (usually 35,000 NPR) and your bank card is also likely to have a max daily withdrawal limit. Be sure to plan ahead and start withdrawing cash a few days in advance. If this is not possible, for example you plan to depart for Lukla soon after arriving in Nepal, you will need to have enough foreign currency (USD is best) to exchange for Nepalese rupees.

If you are trekking independently you will need to carry quite a lot of cash. You will need less cash if you choose an inclusive trekking package as your guide will pay for accommodation and food during the trek, but you will still need enough to cover daily expenses such as hot showers, snacks, and device charging. You should also ensure you have enough cash to tip your guide and porter at the end of the trek, as one or both may not be returning with you to Kathmandu.

PLAN YOUR JOURNEY ON THIS CLASSIC NEPAL TREK

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE


DAY BY DAY ACCOUNT


WHAT TO PACK FOR THE EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

WHAT TO PACK

Everything you need for your Everest Base Camp trek is covered in our dedicated packing guide, What To Pack For Trekking in Nepal, so be sure to check this out for a complete rundown. You can also download our Nepal Packing List, a useful online or printable checklist for your trek. You can view curated lists of the gear we personally use and recommend on our Amazon Storefront.

In a nutshell, you will need layers suitable for trekking in warm and cold conditions; dry clothes for the evening; gear which you will use on the trail and at your guesthouse; any relevant electronics, hygiene and first aid items; essentials such as cash, emergency contact details, your travel insurance documents, and your passport. If you plan to include Gokyo Lakes, we would highly recommend carrying microspikes (crampons) for crossing the icy glacier at Cho La, and they can be useful in case you encounter any other snow or ice during the trek.

If you arrive in Nepal without the appropriate gear for trekking, you can buy and/or rent everything you need in Kathmandu (either fake or genuine items). Some trekking agencies provide gear free of charge to clients. Himalayan Masters, for example, provide sleeping bags, down jackets, trekking poles, water bottles, purification tablets, caps, T-Shirts, and a duffel bag if you’re trekking with a porter.

There are also lots of trekking shops in both Lukla and Namche Bazaar, with others dotted along the trail in various smaller villages. You can buy genuine gear from the likes of Icebreaker, Osprey, and Black Diamond at Sherpa Adventure Gear stores in Namche. There is also a branch of The North Face in Namche. Most other shops sell counterfeit/cheap gear.

You can leave any excess luggage at your hotel (or Himalayan Masters agency office) in Kathmandu and pick it up when you return from your trek.

Post link image for 'What to Pack for Trekking in Nepal', featuring trekkers, guides and porters crossing a suspension bridge on the Everest Base Camp route

WHAT TO PACK FOR YOUR TREK


Display image of a downloadable checklist of what to pack for trekking in Nepal

Download our handy Nepal packing list to
print or fill in digitally using a PDF reader

Download our handy Nepal packing list to print or fill in digitally using a PDF reader

DOWNLOAD NEPAL PACKING LIST
DOWNLOAD NEPAL PACKING LIST

ALTITUDE AWARENESS AND AMS

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

ALTITUDE AWARENESS AND AMS

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also commonly referred to as Altitude Sickness, can affect people at heights of around 2500 m and above. It can affect anyone regardless of age, physical fitness, or other factors. The higher you go the less oxygen there is, and it takes time for your body to adjust. Symptoms of AMS, such as headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, fatigue or loss of appetite, can occur when your body is not properly acclimatised to being at a particular altitude.

The highest sleeping altitude on the Everest Base Camp trek is at Gorak Shep (5160 m). The highest point you are likely to trek to is Kala Patthar (5611 m). These altitudes are considered ‘very high altitude’ in trekking terms.

AMS can develop into the life-threatening conditions of HACE or HAPE, therefore symptoms of AMS should never be ignored. Read up on the causes, symptoms, and treatments for AMS prior to your trek – it could save your life or that of a fellow trekker! We have found the altitude.org website helpful, along with the PDF booklet about Travel at High Altitude (available in a number of languages) produced by Medex. A number of other medical websites, such as the NHS, are also good resources.

In a nutshell, the best way to avoid developing AMS (or the life-threatening conditions of HACE or HAPE) is to follow medically advised best-practices. This includes ascending slowly, sleeping no more than 300 – 500 metres higher than the previous night, taking a rest day for every 1000 metres ascended above 2500 m, staying well hydrated by drinking lots of water, and going on acclimatisation hikes where you can climb high but return to sleep at a lower altitude.

With Ama Dablam as a backdrop, a trekker and guide stop to enjoy the views while doing the Nangkartshang acclimatisation hike on the Everest Three Passes trek

Ascending at the correct rate and doing acclimatisation hikes like this one (Nangkartshang) will help your body adjust to high altitude properly


With Ama Dablam as a backdrop, a trekker and guide stop to enjoy the views while doing the Nangkartshang acclimatisation hike on the Everest Three Passes trek

Ascending slowly and doing acclimatisation day
hikes like this one (Nangkartshang) will help your
body adjust to high altitude properly


If you develop AMS symptoms, do not ascend any higher. Rest, drink water, eat something, take paracetamol and ibuprofen to help with the pain, and assess whether your condition is worsening or improving. If it is worsening, you should descend to a lower altitude immediately. If it is improving or staying the same, rest at the same altitude for a night and allow your body more time to acclimatise before ascending.

Acetazolamide (Diamox) is a tablet that can be taken as a preventative to AMS, or as a treatment to help reduce the symptoms. It helps to speed up the acclimatisation process by causing you to breathe deeper and faster, resulting in higher oxygen concentrations in the body. It usually comes in tablets of 250 mg and the dosage is 125 mg twice a day. You can speak to a medical professional prior to your trip about taking Acetazolamide (Diamox). It is available to purchase over the counter at pharmacies in Kathmandu and trekking guides will often carry it in their first aid kit. Common side effects of taking Acetazolamide (Diamox) are tingling fingers, lips, and/or feet.

Note that many guides and locals will advise you to eat garlic soup as a remedy to AMS, but there is no medical evidence to support this notion.

TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR TREKKING IN NEPAL

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR TREKKING IN NEPAL

You will have the chance to trek up to 5611 m on the Everest Base Camp trek. Trekking to this altitude is NOT automatically covered by most travel insurance providers, but you should be able to pay extra for an add-on ‘activity pack’ or such like which will cover you for trekking at such heights. When choosing your travel insurance policy, it’s also wise to ensure you have Search and Rescue cover and Medical Evacuation cover included.

Always check the inclusions and exclusions of your policy carefully. Some travel insurance providers have specific exclusions or conditions when it comes to trekking in Nepal. For example, the excess for helicopter evacuation may be considerably higher for Nepal than elsewhere. This is due in part to a scam in recent years whereby trekkers who become ill are pressured or encouraged to fly out of the mountains by helicopter for medical attention, with unscrupulous guides, helicopter companies, doctors, and even some trekkers themselves, profiting from the scam.

You should also make a note of the correct procedure for medical emergencies and the insurance company emergency contact number. Add this information to your phone, and keep a written copy with you while trekking.

Whether you are currently in your home country or are already travelling, two travel insurance policy providers that can cover you for trekking in Nepal are World Nomads (for residents of 140+ countries) and True Traveller (for UK and EEA residents only). We have purchased travel insurance policies from both of these companies on numerous occasions and have found their policies to be comprehensive, and their online claims and extension processes straightforward.

If you still need to organise your travel insurance, we’d suggest getting a quote from each to see which suits you best.

Click the links below to get a quote

Click the links to get a quote


GETTING TO NEPAL

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

GETTING TO NEPAL

OVERLAND

It’s possible to travel overland from India to Nepal, crossing the border at Sunauli. The route and details are described in this post on Seat 61.

FLYING

The easiest way to get to Nepal is by flying and this is how the vast majority of people arrive. A number of different airlines operate flights to Nepal’s only international airport, Tribhuvan International Airport, on the outskirts of Kathmandu. There are very few long distance direct flights to Nepal, so you can expect to transfer somewhere in Asia or the Middle East, depending on your direction of travel.

It’s best to book your flights at the earliest possible opportunity. During busy times, such as the peak trekking seasons in spring and autumn, flights are often fully booked.

CHECK FLIGHT OPTIONS HERE


ARRIVING AT KATHMANDU AIRPORT

There is a money exchange booth next to the visa payment counter, prior to passing through immigration. There is an ATM next to the visa payment counter too, however it is unreliable. More ATMs are available after passing through immigration, but it’s best to have some cash with you just in case.

You can arrange a SIM from NCell or Nepal Telecom at arrivals, and SIM cards are also available from many small shops in Thamel. If you have an e-SIM from Holafly or Airalo you can activate it on arrival.

AIRPORT TAXI

A taxi from the airport to Thamel costs approximately 800 – 1000 NPR ($6 – $7.50 USD) and takes between 15 – 30 minutes depending on traffic and the time of day. There are prepaid taxi counters at arrivals, or you can negotiate a fare with a taxi driver outside (there are no metered taxis). You need to pay cash. If you have booked an inclusive package with Himalayan Masters, they include an airport pick up service.

PLAN YOUR TREK TO UPPER MUSTANG

Upper Mustang trekking guide blog post link image featuring two trekkers walking across an arid plateau with mountains in the distance

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE


Upper Mustang trekking itinerary blog post link image featuring a trekker surveying a vast landscape of canyons and rock pinnacles

DAY BY DAY ACCOUNT


NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

Tourist visas are available on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport and at all land border crossings that are open to foreign travellers.

While tourist visas on arrival are available for many foreign passport holders, citizens of some countries are required to get a visa prior to arrival, while those from SAARC countries can get their visa free of charge.

See the Nepal Immigration website for more details.

You can apply for your tourist visa online up to 15 days prior to arrival via the Nepal Immigration website, however many people have reported that the payment confirmation page doesn’t appear and you may need to show proof of payment from your credit card statement on arrival to avoid paying twice. For this reason, some people prefer just to pay on arrival via the below method.  

NEPAL VISA ON ARRIVAL

There are three Nepal tourist visas available and three things you must have to get one on arrival:

NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

  • 15 Days – 30 USD
  • 30 Days – 50 USD
  • 90 Days – 125 USD

WHAT YOU NEED

  • A passport valid for at least six months
  • At least one blank page in your passport
  • The visa fee in cash (US Dollars is best)

The Nepal tourist visa on arrival process is as follows:

NEPAL VISA ON ARRIVAL PROCESS

  1. Go to the machines to the right as you enter the arrivals hall. You’ll need your passport details and hotel address. After filling in the required details on the screen, take a photo of the confirmation page on your phone (the printer doesn’t work).
  2. Next, you need to pay for your visa at the desk on the left as you enter the arrivals hall. You can show the confirmation on your phone. They want a cash payment for the visa. A sign indicates that a number of currencies are acceptable, including EUR, GBP, CAD, USD, AUD, JPY, KRW, AED, SGD, THB, MYR, CHF, DKK, QAD, SAR, CNY, HKD, KWD, and BHD. Note that they will NOT accept Bank of Scotland GBP notes, only Bank of England notes. You cannot pay in NPR. The sign says they accept card payments, but they will refuse and advise you that you must pay cash. If you insist hard enough, then they’ll send you to the desk on the far left to pay at a card machine with a $1 surcharge. The machine can be temperamental and the payment may fail to go through a few times. Also, it’s treated as a cash advance from your credit card, not a transaction, so you’ll probably be charged a cash withdrawal fee by your credit card company. After paying for your visa you’ll get a receipt.
  3. Take the receipt of visa payment, your passport, and boarding pass for your flight into Kathmandu to the immigration desk and get stamped through.

RECOMMENDED KATHMANDU ACCOMMODATION

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

WHERE TO STAY IN KATHMANDU

Thamel is the main tourist hub in Kathmandu, with plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, and services aimed at trekkers. Here are some recommendations for accommodation before and after your Everest Base Camp trek, with something to suit all budgets.

BUDGET KATHMANDU ACCOMMODATION

Flock Hostel | Dorm and Private rooms, modern design, close to Thamel, rooftop bar and terrace, restaurant

Zostel Kathmandu | Dorm and Private rooms, terrace, bar, restaurant, close to Thamel

Flying Yak | Dorm and Private rooms, modern design, central Thamel, bar, terrace  

Yakety Yak | Dorm and Private rooms, sleek modern design, rooftop terrace, bar, restaurant, central Thamel

Bag Packer’s Lodge | Budget private rooms with shared or private bathroom, rooftop terrace, restaurant, central Thamel location

MID-RANGE KATHMANDU ACCOMMODATION

9ine Thamel | Sleek minimalist design, central Thamel, excellent restaurant 

Nomad Hotel | Tasteful modern design, short walk from Thamel, restaurant and terrace

Oasis Kathmandu Hotel | Good location in Thamel, restaurant, generically ‘nice’ decor

Kathmandu Aagantuk Hotel | Good location in Thamel, restaurant, generically ‘nice’ decor, some rooms with balconies

Hotel Roadhouse | Stylish Modern design with heritage feel, central Thamel, popular restaurant on ground floor

HIGH-END KATHMANDU ACCOMMODATION

Dalai-La | Central Thamel, courtyard restaurant, artistic Nepali design

Hotel Thamel House | Classic heritage style with lots of brick and wood, leafy courtyard restaurant, central Thamel

Kathmandu Marriott Hotel | Sleek and minimal design, walking distance to Thamel, Nimsdai store on-site

Aloft Kathmandu |  Modern design, Thamel location

Baber Mahal Vilas – The Heritage Hotel | Heritage boutique hotel invoking a range of historic styles 

The Dwarika’s Hotel | 5* luxury heritage style hotel, half-way between airport and Thamel


SEARCH MORE KATHMANDU ACCOMMODATION HERE

 

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK MAPS, GUIDEBOOKS AND APPS

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

MAPS, GUIDEBOOKS AND APPS

You can easily pick up trekking maps of the Khumbu region in Thamel, Kathmandu, with many shops selling them. Check that your map covers the full Everest Base Camp route, plus the section to the south as far as Salleri if you’re planning to travel overland to Lukla (or plans change at the last minute and you need to trek instead of fly!).

Good guidebooks for the Everest Base Camp trek specifically, and the Khumbu region and Nepal in general, include A Trekking Guide to Everest: Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Lakes, Thame Valley, Three High Passes, Classic Everest, Arun Valley by Sian Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons (available in paperback or kindle), Cicerone’s Trekking Everest: Base Camp, Kala Patar and Other Trekking Routes in Nepal and Tibet, Lonely Planet’s Nepal Guide, the Lonely Planet Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya guide, and The Rough Guide to Nepal.


A Trekking Guide to Everest book



Trekking Everest Cicerone guide book


We would also suggest having a mapping app on your phone that can be used offline. Our favourite is Organic Maps (iOS/Android) (very similar to Maps.me, but with less ads) which is easy to use and has a straightforward interface. You can download maps for the area beforehand and use it offline with the GPS on your phone. Our Everest Base Camp Trekking E-Map includes a KML file with the various routes and all relevant places pinned, which can be imported to Organic Maps or Maps.Me for easy navigation and planning.

BUY OUR EBC TREK E-MAP

We also use the Gaia GPS app (iOS/Android) when we want more detailed topographical info, ensuring that we’ve downloaded the relevant map region online in advance. Again, our Everest Base Camp Trekking E-Map includes a GPX file download of the routes and key places, which can be imported directly into your app.

THANKS FOR READING!

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please consider leaving us a small tip.
Your support is greatly appreciated and helps cover the costs of running this blog.

Cheers!

Kim and Del Hogg

THANKS FOR READING!

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please consider leaving us
a small tip.

Your support is greatly appreciated and helps cover the costs of running this blog.

Cheers!

Kim and Del Hogg

LEAVE A TIP

EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE

That’s it for our guide to the Everest Base Camp trek. We hope you found it useful. If you’ve any thoughts or experiences to share, or any questions about this trek, drop them in the comments below.

ORGANISE YOUR TRIP

 

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8 Comments
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Rupak
Rupak
2 months ago

Really solid guide. The Tengboche with two guesthouse thing is real, learned that one the hard way with a group once. Good call on swapping Kala Patthar and EBC order too, though even then I’d say don’t bank on it too hard, clouds at Gorak Shep move in fast some afternoons and you don’t always get to choose. Also glad you mentioned buffer days, that’s always the first thing people want to cut and the first thing they regret when a Lukla flight gets scrubbed for three days straight.

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Gorkha International Travel
Gorkha International Travel
9 months ago

Thank you so much for such a lovely article with informative content. Hope to see more of a similar article.

1
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Going the Whole Hogg
Author
Going the Whole Hogg
9 months ago
Reply to  Gorkha International Travel

Thanks very much!

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Chitra
Chitra
1 year ago

I have been watching video after video on EBC trekking and nothing just met my needs until your video and this site. I am considering a trip. Wondered if I can get a RT heli tour to go to Kalapattar from Namche. I will certainly consider the tour operator you recommend. Thank you for this amazing site.

1
Reply
Going the Whole Hogg
Author
Going the Whole Hogg
1 year ago
Reply to  Chitra

Thank you, very glad to hear that you’ve found our video and blog so helpful. I’m sure Himalayan Masters will be able to organise a return helicopter trip from Namche to Kala Patthar for you. There are helipads at both. All the best for your trip if you decide to go! Thanks again, Kim

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Naresh
Naresh
2 years ago

Wow, there is nobody ever who even talks about the Sherpa Porters in the region. Exactly, the porters have difficulty in getting the right accommodation and good food. I really love the way it has been explained in this guide. They should be paid more and they should have as good facilities as the guides. They are superhumans.

1
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Going the Whole Hogg
Author
Going the Whole Hogg
2 years ago
Reply to  Naresh

Thanks Naresh, we were happy to highlight this issue. Ultimately, porters do a valuable job and we believe that both they and trekking guides should be well treated and provided for.

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Petrus
Petrus
2 years ago

This guide is truly the most comprehensive and accurate I have come across in over 30 years! Still I would like to make a few comments: – about guides and trek packages: some guides want to have total control and not just act as helpers and fixers. Getting a trek package which does not include food and lodgings helps in this regard, as you as the paying client are responsible to pick the lodge to the stay at and also can eat anything from the menu, or nothing in some cases, without the guide having anything to say about it.… Read more »

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Everest Base Camp Trek: The Essential Guide