THE BEST DAY HIKE IN KOREA
Standing at the edge of a jagged cliff, staring down a metal staircase that disappears into thin air, my stomach is in my mouth. Having been here twice before I know those stairs continue steeply down the cliff face, just out of sight, but I’m still bricking it. I love this hike, but I hate it too. Or maybe these moments of exhilarating terror and heightened adrenaline are the reason I love it. I grip the cold metal railing tightly with both hands and inch my way down the stairs, one step at a time, jaw clenched hard. It takes an age to get down. Stepping onto solid rock again, I exhale long and hard and the grin that’s barely left my face for the past five hours is back.
This incredible ridge hike is on Saryangdo, an island off the south coast of Korea in the Hallyeohaesang National Marine Park. Relatively unknown (in a country that has a serious obsession with hiking) this trail, and the island itself, is worth travelling for. In fact, we’d rate it the best day hike in Korea.
Who doesn’t love views like this?!
This is our absolute favourite Korean hike, so good we’ve returned to it three four times. Saw-toothed peaks and kryptonite-esque rock formations make up large sections of the hike, rivalling the scenery of Korea’s most celebrated national park, Seoraksan. What gives Saryangdo the edge though is its spectacular island views. Clearing the trees on the initial ascent, the view over to Namhae, Samcheonpo and the surrounding islands is a stunning reward. By the time you’ve reached Jirisan, the first peak, the 360° vista is downright breathtaking and it just keeps getting better.
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Saryangdo Hiking Map
Various Saryangdo hiking routes and key places are marked on our map. Tap the star symbol to save to your own Google Maps, or download an offline version to Maps.me (iOS/Android). Tap the menu button at the top left for more details, to toggle layers on and off, and switch between satellite and terrain view.
Saryangdo Hike
This hike is not for the faint hearted; expect a hefty dose of scrambling up/down/over rocks, narrow ‘trails’ with drops on both sides, suspension bridges joining craggy peaks, and ladder and rope descents that will have your heart pumping. The terrain is no joke, so step carefully and think twice before posing for that jumping shot – the mountain rescue helicopter flew over us on our last trip there, off to rescue someone who fell off the mountain while taking a selfie. According to the locals this is a fairly common occurrence.
Still smiling cause I’m yet to encounter the staircase of doom
Where to Start?
First, get yourself to the city of Tongyeong, then it’s a bus or taxi and a ferry ride away. The hike takes anywhere between 4 – 7 hours, depending on your fitness level and how often you stop to drink in the views. Our average is around 6 hours (we stop a lot for photos, etc.). So, you can plan to do it as a day trip from the mainland, or stay over and enjoy the island vibe a little longer (highly recommended!). We have full details on transport and accommodation options, plus hints and tips, further down in this post.
The ridge hike takes in 4 or 5 peaks (depending on how keen you are!) and it’s best to start the hike at the opposite end of the island to the ferry terminal and hike back. This way you save the most exciting bits for the end and get the best views while on the trail (looking towards the cool bridge that connects Saryangdo to neighbouring Hado). Plus, you don’t have to worry about getting transport back to the terminal/town.
Trail map in the village at the start
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Saryangdo Ridge Hike
Beginning
The initial ascent up to the ridge takes around 40 minutes, past farmland, impressive stone cairns and through a forest. Emerging from the trees, you’re faced with a rugged rocky climb upwards, and some amazing views. Pine trees sprout from the grey rock facade, colourful hiking flags strung up in clumps on their branches.
The first WOW moment
Struggling to pick my jaw up off the ground
The ridge trail continues with ups, downs and small forest areas dotted amongst exposed rock sections. You’ll pass plenty of good looking rest stops, but hold out for Jirisan peak before you crack out your lunch. The views are spectacular and worth savouring over a sandwich and coffee. It takes around 1 ½ – 2 hours to reach this first peak.
Jirisan Peak
Lunch with a view
Continuing on from Jirisan there’s a bit of a descent and in a forest clearing you’ll come across a shack selling beer (₩5,000 a can!), Makgeolli and ice cream. Sometimes it’s open, sometimes it’s not. If you’ve taken the shortcut from the road, this is where you’ll emerge.
Hiking in Autumn
Hiking clubs tie their flags to branches all over the mountain
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Middle
Next, it’s onto the first hair-raising section of the trail, the Moon Rock (달 바위), 1 – 1 ½ hours beyond Jirisan peak.
“Oh, this railing is new”
Standing in relative safety at the end of the wooden staircase, taking in the scene for the first time, our friend Jack exclaims, “Oh! They’ve put up a railing.” Eh, what the f**k?! I’m shitting it even with a railing. Glad I didn’t join him on his last jaunt to Saryangdo.
Like a giant grey chunk of Toblerone, the trail has suddenly become no more than a narrow spine over which we have to cross, thankfully with the aid of a cold metal railing to cling onto these days. Waiting for hikers to cross in the opposite direction my angst is building, rising further and further up my throat. Nimble mountain goats skip over the pass, not even bothering with the railing. A fearful ajjuma sits paralysed, one foot on the rock, the other dangling over the crevice below, looking for somewhere to step, all the while gripping the metal for dear life and shouting ‘어떻게! 어떻게!’ (How! How!).
This isn’t helping my overwhelming fear.
The queue behind us is building. Del, one of said mountain goats, strides confidently across the trail of doom, while I gingerly inch my way along. Reaching the chasm (OK, OK, so it’s like half a meter), I’m starting to sympathise with 어떻게 woman. There’s no turning back though, and after some words of encouragement from my fellow hikers I’m on the home straight. Soon we’re standing on the second peak of the day, Wolambong (월암봉).
The incredible view over Daehang beach (our home for the night), the ridge and the newly constructed bridge is enough to distract me. Until, that is, it’s time to keep going and I’m wondering where exactly the trail is. Turns out it’s just straight down the chunks of rock. Engaging arms, legs and bum, I scramble and wedge myself between rock faces, easing my way down to the bottom.
You’ve got all this to go…
End
If you’re ever in doubt as to whether you’re on the right path or not, just feel the trees. Years of hikers’ tight grips have turned the trunks and branches as smooth as polished wood. A couple of times I turned back, choosing a different route after encountering some rough bark.
Part staircase, part rock climbing
“Yeah guys, I’m just coming!”
*unable to move as I watch them disappear off the rock face*
Looking back up towards the Moon Rock, it’s hard to reconcile quite how one got from there to the current spot on the trail. Ahead lies more fun and games. After a short boardwalk section and steep staircase – part manmade, part natural – it’s time to descend the aforementioned stairway from hell.
Hell No
Golden Hour setting in
One last jolly down a rock face
Next, there’s a bit of up and it’s not long until another big WOW moment; a duo of suspension bridges. The setting is fantastic and bouncing your way between the jagged peaks is good fun, or terrifying, depending on your head for heights.
After easing your way down a rock slope and some casual rope-assisted descents the end is nearly in sight. You’ll reach a junction in the forest where you can continue onto the ferry terminal (사량면 사무소), or turn left towards Daehang Beach (대항) if you’re staying the night, or if you’re up for the 5th peak.
Parting Ways
On the ferry terminal trail, turn left when you reach the road and you’ll soon be back at the start.
On the Daehang path, once you reach the road, walk left for a few minutes, then right down the path through the bushes to reach the village. You’ll come out at the back of Dandihae Pension (단디해 펜션).
For the fifth peak, turn right at the road, walk up for a bit and you’ll see a path heading up a hill on the left. Follow this to the peak and around and down to the ferry terminal.
Looking back up at the suspension bridges from Daehang Beach
Now that your epic hike is over, DON’T FORGET TO STRETCH! The pain will last a few days, but believe me it’s worth every damn inch of muscle ache.
Yep, you’re gonna be hiking all of that
Tips For The Trail
- Hang back for a bit when you get off the bus at the start of the trail to leave a gap between you and all those other hikers that piled off the bus.
- Take a packed lunch and plenty of water. There’s nowhere to fill up on the hike and only one ‘shop’ with very limited, expensive supplies. And it’s not always open.
- You’ll want to have both hands free for the rock scrambling sections so pack your stuff in a backpack. We always hike with a water bladder instead of a water bottle. Much easier for on the go drinking.
- Check the weather forecast before setting out and avoid hiking in the rain/just after heavy rain. This trail is dangerous if slippy.
- Take suncream, even in Winter.
- Make sure you’ve got appropriate layers. None of the peaks are crazy high, but it’s a long hike with exposed sections so it’s best to have a warm fleece/jacket etc if you’re hiking outside of Summer.
- As mentioned already, watch your footing. There’s no need to fear for your safety, but be sensible as accidents can and do happen on this ridge. The emergency number in Korea is 119.
- Make sure you have proper footwear (hiking shoes/boots, or trainers with good grip, not Converse, Toms etc.)
- Take a headtorch, just in case it gets dark before you’re finished.
- Personally, I only used my hiking pole on the final descent to the village (and even then mostly just cause Del was pissing and moaning about having carried it the whole way for no reason). If you normally need a hiking pole, take it, but you’ll probably want both hands free for the majority of the hike.
Good To Know
There’s a new CU convenience store and two small supermarkets at the ferry terminal where you can pick up snacks, drinks, food and cooking supplies etc, plus a few coffee shops and local restaurants.
At the village where you start the trail there’s one or two local restaurants but it’s best to stock up in the main town if you need anything.
There are public toilets at the ferry terminal and at the village where the trail starts, but none on the actual hike.
Getting There
*UPDATE:
The Tongyeong Misudong to Saryangdo ferry is no longer operating. We have removed the information about the ferry from this post.*
Tongyeong, just west of Geoje on the south coast, is the closest city. You can take a direct bus (no train) from Seoul, Busan, Daejeon, Daegu and numerous other cities and towns.
If you’re planning to arrive in Tongyeong the night before your ferry, there are plenty of motels near the bus terminal. There aren’t any hotels or hostels in this part of town. For food and supplies there’s an eMart across the road from the bus terminal and loads of restaurants, bakeries and convenience stores around.
Gaochi Ferry Terminal
Local Bus
You can take local bus 670 to Gaochi (가오치) ferry terminal. Go to the bus stop across the road from the bus terminal to get on the 670. There are just 6 buses a day, but they arrive in time to catch each ferry. Be at the bus stop around 1 hour prior to your chosen ferry departure time (first bus is approx 6:10am). It takes around 30-40 minutes.
Taxi
There’s a taxi rank outside the bus terminal. This is quicker at around 20 minutes drive and will cost approx ₩15,000.
Cruising under the new bridge that links Saryangdo to neighbouring Hado
Breakfast on the balcony at Dandihae Pension
Daehang Beach
Sunrise at Daehang Beach
Hi both, just hiked the trail today and wanted to let you know that the ferry from Misudong is not in operation any more. So for the next people to not wait there for no ferry ☺️ but great experience on the hike, thanks for all the inspiration.
Best Sarah
Hi Sarah, thanks for the update, this is really helpful. I double checked online and have removed the ferry info from the blog post. Glad you still made it to the island and had a great hike! Cheers, Kim
Hi Guys, Just been back to Sarayangdo after we got rained off two weeks ago. The trek is amazing as you rightly say. There is an alternative start point. If you stay on the bus to the next stop after Donji-Ri (next to the viewpoint marked on your google map), there is a path that starts right next to the road and effectively takes the whole spine of the island in. It saves you about 200m of climbing and actually has some stunning warm up views. The shack was open on route and if you stay on the trail to… Read more »
Hi Simon, thanks for sharing your tips and updated trail info! Glad you enjoyed it and waited for the good weather. Hope you had a good feed at Chef Jangs too! Cheers, Kim
I would love to do the whole trip and have a dedicated week to do it. I’m very flexible with dates which can be anytime mid-October.
Would you know of anyone who would like to share the journey of the hike and experience?
I would prefer having one or more persons to do this with.
Hi Linda, glad to hear you’re planning a trip to Saryangdo, it’s such a beautiful hike! A week is quite a long time, you could definitely enjoy the hike and scenery in 2-3 days. But of course, if you prefer slow travel then go for it! We don’t know anyone specifically for you to take this journey with, sorry! I suggest you search for some Korea hiking groups on Facebook and post about your plans. Perhaps some others will be interested and you can join together. Hope you have a great time! Thanks, Kim
YOU ARE THE BEST !! Thanks to you guys I had the best time in Tongyeong, hiking both BIJINDO and SARYANGDO islands… You made my dreams come true thanks to your videos and tips. As I am travelling in Korea on my own I like to be well prepared to avoid anxiety and keep last minute surprises to a minimum : you helped me a lot !! BIJINDO after typhoon Tapah was deserted and yet sunny and warm : a lot of broken branches and leaves along the hiking path but it was still possible to clim up the hill.… Read more »
Wow, thanks so much for this message! It genuinely means a lot to us that you not only visited two of our favourite places ever, but also had such a great time there. This has put a massive smile on my face ? Thanks for taking the time to comment and hope we can help with some of your future adventures too! Cheers, Kim
Thanks for sharing. Very helpful when planning a visit to Saryang-do. We really enjoyed the hike. We got off a a bus stop right after the village (Donji-Ri). This is were most of the hikers got off the bus. I think we just skipped the first bit of climbing and merged with the hike you describe very soon. Ferry times are still the same
You’re welcome Roland. Glad you enjoyed the hike.
Hi, will it be possible to hike the ridge towards end of November? Will it be too cold, or the daylight hours too short?
Hi, it will most definitely be possible then. We hiked in early December one year wearing shorts. It was a little chilly when the wind blew but with the sun shining it was a beautiful day, around 16 degrees C. It gets dark about 6:00 pm at that time of year so if you start at 9 or 10 you have tons of time to spare, even if you go really slow.
Very helpful tips and guidance about Saryangdo! Love your pics and layout. We should be at Saryangdo soon 🙂
Glad you like it and find it useful. We went back a couple of weeks ago for our final visit – one of our favourite places in Korea! Let us know if you have any questions.