FINDING FRUNZE
SOVIET-ERA ART & ARCHITECTURE IN BISHKEK
Frunze was a name I’d never heard of before setting foot in Bishkek. Leningrad, Stalingrad, Stalinabad, sure. But Frunze? This was news to me.
Like many other great Soviet cities, Kyrgyzstan’s capital was renamed under communism. The Bishkek born Bolshevik hero Mikhail Frunze lent his name to the city for more than sixty years. During this time, a change in name wasn’t the only revamp Bishkek experienced. In true Soviet fashion, the city underwent a physical transformation. People’s art adorned the walls of apartment blocks, work buildings and public spaces. Imposing Socialist Modernism architecture dominated civic design. Parks and green spaces sprung up across the city. It’s a legacy that endures to this day.
While Frunze is no more, the monumental art and architecture of the Soviet-era remains, and exploring modern day Bishkek through its recent past is a fascinating way to discover the city. From colourful mosaics to towering statues, there’s a lot to uncover. That is, if you know where to look.
On the hunt for Soviet-era Art & Architecture in Bishkek
We spent a week in Bishkek hunting out such Soviet-era delights. Our explorations had us strolling the city’s streets and leafy boulevards, getting to grips with the public bus and marshrutka network, and diving head first into residential micro-districts. We wandered far beyond the usual tourist trail, in what’s already a fairly obscure travel destination. As such, sourcing the location of many of these Soviet relics proved challenging.
Researching Soviet mosaics in Bishkek, I came across a few articles about a 2012-2014 project by STAB called Fragmented Dream. Reference kept being made to a map of key works produced by the group – exactly the kind of thing I wanted to get my hands on. But it was easier said than done. A pdf of a calendar produced a year later was all I could dig up, complete with the location of some of the most special mosaics. I pored over the details, translating the Russian or Kyrgyz addresses where necessary, and bookmarked them all on Maps.me.
This was the best I could hope for it seemed. Until that is, an email reply from STAB confirmed they still had some maps, and I could come by to get one. After a Cold War drama-esque exchange with the office security guard, we had our hands on the precious map! It showed that I already had the right location for a number of works, and it outlined a few more, mainly in the 5th microdistrict on the outskirts of the city centre. The detective work had paid off and we had ourselves a plan for the week, well, in between eating and drinking the best Bishkek could offer.
Here you’ll find the best of Bishkek’s Soviet-era art and architecture, ready and waiting for you to discover for yourself.
Soviet Bishkek Map
To save you the hard work we’ve detailed all of the mosaics, statues, buildings and pieces of interest that we discovered in Bishkek on the map below. You can also download our Maps.Me Bishkek bookmarks for offline use. Just make sure you download the app first (iOS/Android). Tap the menu button at the top left for more details and to toggle layers on and off. You can save this Google map by tapping the star.
SOVIET-ERA ART & ARCHITECTURE IN BISHKEK
MOSAICS & RELIEFS
LABOUR
1966
Artists: Michael Bochkarev & Altymysh Usubaliev
Materials: Pebbles, Ceramics
If you’ve ever wandered the streets of Bishkek, chances are you’ve passed right by Labour without even realising it. Adorning an apartment block wall just off Chuy Avenue, this is one of Bishkek’s most easily accessible Soviet-era mosaics. In fact, you can spot it right across the street from the outdoor seating area of Bukhara restaurant.
The mosaic, made of pebbles and ceramics, symbolises Soviet class structure. A countrywoman stands beside an industrial worker complete with bushy moustache, and an intellectual dressed in a white coat and tie.
This is still a lived-in apartment building, where a stream of people young and old come and go through the locked front gate. Hang around and flash a smile, and your camera, if you want to gain access to the small entrance courtyard for the best view.
The view of ‘Labour’ from inside the
courtyard of the apartment building
THE PATH OF ENLIGHTENMENT
1978
Artist: Satar Aitiev
Materials: Smalt Tiles
This unique Soviet-era mosaic strays, quite surprisingly, far from the realm of traditional Socialist Realism. Boldly marking the entrance to one of Kyrgyz National University’s campus buildings, it’s not hard to find. Dream-like figures of men and women, some dressed in traditional Kyrgyz hats, emerge from the sky, looking towards a central ghostly shape. Wispy clouds float by and the whole mosaic takes on an ethereal, painterly feel. Indeed, the artist is a prominent Kygryz painter. This monumental artwork is a far cry from stereotypical Soviet ideology, and it created quite a stir when it was first revealed.
Dreamlike figures in traditional
dress on ‘The Path Of Enlightenment’
The mosaic is complemented by a number of smaller works either side of the main panel. They’re easy to miss, hidden behind trees and fading in colour. Each is made from smalt, a special kind of cobalt glass sourced from the Baltic.
The main mosaic is in excellent condition and can be easily appreciated from the large open courtyard in front.
The mosaic as viewed from the front courtyard
of the Kyrgyz National University campus building
SONG
1966
Artist: Alexei Kamensky
Materials: Smalt Tiles
One of the earliest Soviet mosaics in Bishkek, Song is beautifully preserved to this day. It is the only interior mosaic we found, located on the back wall of a bright open space in the corridors of the Shubin Music School.
‘Song’, well protected and maintained on
the wall inside the Shubin Music School
The bold colours and detail of the clothing is wonderful, and you can appreciate it up close. You’ll need to visit during opening hours as the school is still active, and the mosaic is best viewed in the afternoon light.
Close up of the colourful tiles and woman’s head
Inspecting the fine detail of the tilework
OUR WORK TO YOU, MOTHERLAND!
1984
Artist: Theodore Herzen
Materials: Smalt Tiles
This monumental mosaic is as bold and rousing as the title suggests. Dominating the entrance to a textile factory, Our Work To You, Motherland! is dedicated to the workers. The purpose of the building remains unchanged today, although the people working there don’t seem to pay the mosaic much attention.
The artist, Theodore Herzen, lived nearby and based the central female figure on his wife, also an artist. The work is striking, yet delicate. Flowing fabrics melt into the sky, with doves and a beautiful sunset completing the scene.
It’s impossible to inspect up close due to the sheer scale of the work and the height at which it’s displayed, but you can get a great view from the entrance way of the building.
The dominant Our Work To You, Motherland!’
above the entrance to the textile factory
RADIO AND NOWADAYS
1967
Artist: Alexander Veronin
Materials: Pebbles
Much like Our Work To You, Motherland! reflects the function of the textile factory it adorns, Radio and Nowadays boldly announces the city’s radio station. It’s one of the few mosaics in the city to be made of cheap local pebbles and not costly smalt tiles (most of these are from the early period of creation). This makes the colours a little more subdued but the scale of the work is impressive. A giant of a man cups hand to mouth, radio waves emanating skyward. He stands level with a radio mast, symbolising the enormous scientific achievements of the Soviet Union.
‘Radio and Nowadays’, subdued in
colour but impressive in scale
LENIN IS WITH US
1978
Artist: Lydia Ilina
Materials: Smalt Tiles
This large mosaic takes on a three dimensional appearance, with curved sections protruding from the wall. ‘All Soviet People’ are represented; a Red Army soldier, male and female students, a scholar, a scientist, a young pioneer, a worker and so on. They are spread across numerous panels, all connected by a flowing red banner.
The sprawling bas-relief/mosaic, ‘Lenin Is With Us’
Lenin stands separate on the left, arm extended in his familiar pose: he is presented atop a pedestal in statue-like form, facing right towards the others. On the opposing side of the mosaic is a Madonna-like figure with child: dressed in white robe and head covering, she looks directly back towards Lenin. She is surrounded by the Soviet people, and is seemingly the centre of their world.
Lenin shown in his characteristic pose
The madonna-like figure, facing back towards Lenin
It’s curious to me, this bold religious figure sat in direct contrast to Lenin. The title suggests that even in this modern age, the early Soviet ideals and teachings of Lenin remain at the heart of everything the people do. But the composition shows such a distinction between the two, that you can’t help but wonder if the artist is suggesting that Lenin is being forgotten.
More Soviet-era Art & Architecture
WELCOMING GUESTS
1964
Artist: Andrej Mihaliov
Materials: Smalt Tiles and Ceramics
This was the first mosaic to appear in Frunze, positioned boldly by the road to the old airport. It was created to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the accession of Kyrgyzstan to Russia. Its style is unique compared to others created later in the city, still owing its influences to the Socialist Realist Stalinist style. It’s bright and colourful, and remains in excellent condition.
A bright and colourful welcome as
you head into the centre of Bishkek
Men, women and children are shown in a variety of dress, some in traditional Kyrgyz clothing, others wearing modern European style suits and dresses. The red communist flag, complete with yellow hammer and sickle, flies triumphantly above them all.
A variety of Russian and Kyrgyz people from
throughout the countries’ shared history are shown
ALA-TOO CINEMA
1964?
Artist: Unknown
Style: Bas Relief
Ala-Too Cinema is still in operation to this day, a prominent building found on central Chuy Avenue. Its distinctive curved facade is topped by seven bas relief panels, depicting the great achievements of the Soviet Union.
The noteable curved facade of the Ala-Too Cinema
They are not the original panels, having been re-designed to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of Kyrgyzstan’s accession to Russia. The outer panels commemorate the occasion, with distinct Kyrgyz motifs. The central panels symbolise peace, scientific progress and the advancement of education under Soviet rule. The classic hammer, sickle and star emblems also appear.
The left-sided panels with cosmonaut, Kyrgyz motifs
and the names of the both Russia and Kyrgyzstan
The central panels with the recognisable
Soviet symbols and a focus on education
The right-sided panels with Kyrgyz motifs,
the centenary dates and a focus on peace
FESTIVE PROCESSION OF THE PEOPLE OF HARD LABOUR, CULTURE AND SCIENCE
1978
Artists: Alexey Kamensky, Albert Bekdzhanyan
Materials: Armenian Coloured Tufa and Travertine
Boldly adorning either side of the Southern Gate, these two panels were originally designed to be purely decorative. This wasn’t acceptable to officials however, and the artists were ordered to incorporate ideology into the design, told to celebrate the achievements of the republic in the fields of science, culture, agriculture and industry. A compromise was made by the artists, interspersing figures of people to symbolise these achievements.
The figures that feature on the eastern mosaic
A view of the western mosaic
The use of tufa and travertine creates a muted colour palette, and in its faded state today, the monumental art blends in somewhat with its everyday surroundings.
Looking at home among functional surroundings
FLOURISH, KYRGYZSTAN!
1978
Artist: Satar Aitiev
Materials: Smalt Tiles
This enormous mosaic covers the entire end of an apartment block opposite the VEFA shopping centre. The residents have been approached many times with numerous requests to cover the monumental art with advertising billboards, but each time they’ve refused. This is heartening to know, as Soviet-era mosaics are in danger of being damaged or destroyed across Bishkek and the entire former USSR.
The state of this mosaic is in decline, with the colours fading and many tiny cobalt glass tiles missing due to neglect. But the overall impression remains visible, and is best appreciated from across the street. The central figure of a woman, dressed in traditional Kyrgyz clothing, stands open-armed in front of her fellow male and female citizens. They look hopeful, triumphant and prosperous. Skyscrapers, flowing ribbons and rays of sun tower above them, reaching to the sky and beyond. It’s a rousing piece of propaganda art, no doubt intended to instill a notion of pride and determination in all those Kyrgyz citizens who gazed upon it.
The faded glory of ‘Flourish, Kyrgyzstan!’
SPACE AND PROGRESS OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY
1984
Artist: Momunbek Akmatkulov
Materials: Smalt Tiles
While Flourish, Kyrgyzstan! endures thanks to the refusal of local residents to cover it up, not all Soviet-era mosaics in Bishkek have been so lucky. While all of these mosaics should be maintained by the government as monuments of history and culture, in reality little is done to protect them. Some, like Women (1985), have been covered over by new building owners, completely hidden from view. Others, like Space and Progress of Science and Technology, have been purposely and irrevocably damaged.
On the side of the former House of Science and Technology, this spectacular mosaic was painted over by the new owners, and holes were drilled through it to insert external air conditioning units. After a campaign by STAB, the owners were forced to wash off the paint and were fined a measly 1000 soms (about $14). However, the brown paint remains on the cracks between the tiles, and while you can just about make out the imagery of a cosmonaut soaring towards the sun, it’s in a very sorry state.
The scene of the cosmos has been
taken over by air-conditioning units
The cosmonaut is still just about visible
While in the area, keep an eye out for the 2014 street art murals on a school nearby. The most interesting is a modern reinterpretation of Semyon Chuikov’s famous painting ‘Daughter of Soviet Kirghizia’. Instead of books, she carries an iPad, and listens to headphones while wandering through an urban landscape (replacing the rural backdrop of the original).
A Bishkek street mural with a modern perspective
Fuel Up For Your Explorations
SOVIET-ERA MOSAICS OF BISHKEK MICRO-DISTRICTS
Away from the grand avenues and official buildings of central Bishkek, Soviet-era mosaics and other forms of art thrived in the micro-districts of Frunze. Their function was far less ideological, existing largely to brighten up local neighbourhoods and combat the monotony of mass construction. As such, these projects were allocated significantly less funding than the big budget pieces on display elsewhere.
Uniquely, design and execution was carried out not by master craftsmen and members of the Union of Artists, but by local workers themselves. Besides a few notable pieces such as Male Athletes and Female Athletes, these works are largely undocumented. Titles, dates of construction and artists involved are unknown. But there’s something enjoyable about wandering the neighbourhood and stumbling across little pieces of history here and there.
MALE ATHLETES
1970
Artists: Construction and Installation Management of Leninsky District
Materials: Ceramics
Alongside Female Athletes, this is the only mosaic in the micro-districts that overtly extols Soviet ideology. Images of powerful athletes and the promotion of healthy, active lifestyles was a common theme in Soviet propaganda. Male Athletes is in pretty good condition, on the south-west facade of an apartment block facing a leafy park. It can be appreciated up close, or from a perfectly positioned park bench across the path.
Taking in the scene from the park bench
FEMALE ATHLETES
1975
Artists: Experimental Group For New Technology Of Frunze Construction Plant, Instructor A.I Bylenkov
Materials: Ceramics
Stylistically similar to Male Athletes, Female Athletes holds a more prominent position on a residential block facing a main road. Two women leap skywards, arms raised triumphantly, a flag in each hand. Unfortunately, the mosaic was damaged when the building resident renovated, the upper portion no longer resembling the original work. A state archive photo from 1979 shows the Olympic torch and rings on the upper left of the mosaic, with the women soaring towards it. It remains an impressive piece regardless.
‘Female Athletes’: changed from
the original but still impressive
VARIOUS WORKS OF THE 5TH MICRO-DISTRICT
Date and Artists Unknown
With pleasing the state of little concern or necessity, the works of the 5th Micro-district of Bishkek are varied and intriguing. My favourite is the figure of Khottabych, a character from a 1957 Soviet fantasy film called Old Man Khottabych, flying through the sky on his magic carpet. Below, you can see the Sphinx and pyramids of Egypt, as well as mosque minarets. Much of it is decoratively embellished with what appears to be fragments of patterned ceramics, resembling smashed up traditional Kyrgyz teacups.
Khottabych, flying in the sky on his magic carpet
The mosque minarets sitting below Khottabych
Elsewhere, snow leopards and deer roam the sides of buildings, and a man dressed in Kyrgyz attire rides a white horse. A sgraffito image of three children marching forth adorns one apartment block. And a huge decorative pattern of blue and yellow Kyrgyz motifs emblazons the side of another multi-story block. Their conditions vary, with little being done to prevent natural erosion and decay.
Click on the images below to see them enlarged
A deer kept company by a satelite dish
The decorative pattern of blue and yellow Kyrgyz
motifs on the side of a multi-storey block
Those children marching forth,
looking like they mean business
UNKNOWN WORKS THROUGHOUT THE CITY
On our wanders around Bishkek we came across numerous other interesting works of art. We can only assume they are of the Soviet era, but who knows? They include bas relief works, ceramic panels and statues.
This striking bas-relief of mothers and babies is
found on the walls of the Kyrgyz Dramatical
Theatre on the eastern side of Panfilov Park
Another simple but impressive bas-relief
on the walls of the Kyrgyz Dramatical Theatre
A bas-relief of men and women in traditional
dress on a building just off Mikhail Frunze
Street on the north side of Panfilov Park
An unknown horseman basking in the
afternoon sun on the same building on the
corner of Mikhail Frunze Street
SOVIET-ERA ARCHITECTURE IN BISHKEK
Locating Bishkek’s prominent Soviet era architecture proved far less challenging. The buildings are relatively well documented and easily accessible on a self-guided walking itinerary through the city.
STATE HISTORY MUSEUM (1984)
Dominating the northern side of Ala-Too Square, this impressive marble and glass cube is particularly attractive in the golden hour glow. The museum itself is currently closed for renovation, with no apparent completion date. There’s a huge statue of Manas, the Kyrgyz national hero, in the square in front. The whole area is popular with rollerbladers, and you can even rent a pair from the boot of nearby cars.
The State History Museum, with the statue of Manas
and mountains of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range
reflected in the windows
Curious About Bus Stops?
WEDDING PALACE (1987)
Wedding Palaces are a feature of many ex-Soviet cities, a non-religious place where couples could marry. To this day, weddings are still held here. The inside of the building is impressive, with colourful stained glass covering the tall, narrow windows with classic Kyrgyz motifs. Outside, a crumbling mosaic fountain presides over the small square.
The grand looking Wedding Palace, still used today
The colourful stained glass windows inside
PRESIDENTIAL PALACE (1984)
Known locally as The White House, this is home to the national parliament, but not actually the president.
The marble covered seven storey Presidential
Palace was built in the Stalinist modern style
STATE CIRCUS (1976)
Another common feature of ex-USSR cities, the State Circus is a classic example of Soviet kitsch and quirkiness. The bright yellow and green facade resembles a giant flying saucer, complete with bas relief clown figure embellishment.
The spaceship-like State Circus in Bishkek
Bas-relief clown figures round the side
PALACE OF SPORTS (1974)
My personal favourite when it comes to Soviet-era architecture in Bishkek, the Palace of Sports is an angular behemoth of concrete, marble and glass. A giant statue of mythical Kyrgyz strongman, Kojomkul, was erected outside in 2004.
The Palace of Sports, full of geometric appeal
STATUES
LENIN
Many Lenin statues have been removed from cities across the former USSR, but this one remains, moved from Ala-Too Square to a less prominent position behind the State History Museum in 2003. He is shown in his familiar stance, arm outstretched, pointing the way to communism.
Vladimir Ilyich Lenin depicted in his familiar pose
MAXIM GORKY
Standing in a park of the same name, this statue is dedicated to the famous Russian writer.
Maxim Gorky looking dignified in Gorky Park
FATHERS OF THE NATION
This imposing statue by T Sadykov is from the post-Soviet era, erected in 1995, but certainly worth checking out. Originally, it had many life-size bronze statues of prominent Kyrgyz political and public figures. Gradually, the figures started to disappear, possibly stolen for scrap metal. Today, only the names remain, inscribed under the platforms where the statues once stood. Nevertheless, it’s impressive, bold and intriguing.
A post Soviet-era statue that’s perhaps
more striking given the absence of so
many of its original components
USEFUL INFORMATION
‘Fragmented Dream’ Map
I contacted art.initiatives.bishkek@gmail.com to ask about the original ‘Fragmented Dream’ map and Asel replied (in Russian) with instructions for collecting one. It cost 200 Som.
Accommodation
We stayed at the central Interhouse Hostel in Bishkek and can recommend it. The location means you can walk almost everywhere, and if you want to take a bus or marshrutka, there are stops nearby. Apple Hostel is a good option if you want to be close to the bus station, however not so handy for exploring Bishkek itself.
FINDING FRUNZE
SOVIET-ERA ART & ARCHITECTURE IN BISHKEK
That’s it for the tour of Soviet-era art and architecture in Bishkek. If you’re travelling to the Kyrgyz capital, enjoy visiting these fascinating and intriguing works. And if you know of any other interesting pieces of monumental art in the city, or have more information regarding anything mentioned above, get involved and leave a message in the comment section below.
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This was super useful, and interesting, thank you. I really appreciate all of the research that you have put into this.
hi, it has been interesting. Born and living in Astaná, I remember something similar seen in my childhood and nowadays quite few socialist era mosaics still exist here. so, for me it was kind of surprising to find by chance and to read in english your article about these mosaic artworks in Bishkek. Mostly because previously, untill to-night, i have never met such a detailed description including explanation for every mosaic, concerning its subject , figures, meaning et cetera. Best wishes with warm hugs.
Hi Vladistav, thanks so much for your comment. It’s really nice to hear that you found the article interesting. Soviet-era mosaics are something I’ve been interested in for a while, and seek out in many former USSR countries. I’m curious about your thoughts and interaction with the mosaics as someone who grew up with them. Do they largely go unnoticed and ignored these days? Or do you see them as a work of art worth preserving? We have an article about mosaics in Almaty too which you may find interesting (http://www.goingthewholehogg.com/soviet-era-art-and-architecture-in-almaty/) and the Monumental Almaty website is a wonderful resource… Read more »
[…] away in corners you will find beautiful mosaics and murals. This article on Soviet era art in Bishkek from Going the whole hogg will help you find some of these gems. This great Soviet architecture […]
Hey, hello! I would like to ask you if it is possible to improve the maps on maps.me you created.
I have found more mosaics and would like to share them. Moreover the links you inserted in each spot from art-initiatives.org do not work anymore. I would upload my photos in correspondence of each spot. What do you think?
Cheers!
Hi Marci! Sure, always great to share more info. I think the easiest way to add them to the map is by exporting your file from maps.me with your bookmarks and emailing the file to us ( hello [at] goingthewholehogg [dot] com ). We can then import them and add it to our existing map and update the file for everyone. The links from art-initiatives were already there, presumably added by them directly, so I can’t delete them. Cheers! Kim