13 THINGS TO DO IN MARTVILI
In this guide we cover 13 top things to see and do around Martvili, including the best places to stay, eat, and drink good wine. We also include a detailed map which you can download, and practical info on how to get to Martvili.
While Martvili is best known for its eponymous canyon, there is in fact much more to this lush region of Georgia. From sulphur springs and waterfall pools to hidden lake hikes and Megrelian feasts, there is plenty of encouragement to linger longer. Throw Karma Hostel into the mix – a relaxation haven – and it’s hard to drag yourself away from this chilled out corner of Samegrelo.
SEE AROUND MARTVILI IN OUR WEST GEORGIA FILM
MARTVILI PRACTICALITIES
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MARTVILI MAP
Use the map below to get to all the places mentioned in this Martvili guide. You can also download an offline version to Maps.me (iOS/Android). Tap the menu button at the top left for more details, to toggle layers on and off, and switch between satellite and terrain view.
HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (ONLINE VERSION)
To save this map to use online on desktop or mobile just tap the star symbol at the top. When you open Google Maps on your phone, navigate to ‘Saved’ at the bottom, then swipe along to ‘Maps’ at the top. You’ll find this map in your list of maps. On desktop, click the three lines at the top left, select ‘Your Places’, then ‘Maps’. Click the map, then scroll down and select ‘Open in My Maps’ to access the interactive version.
Alternatively, just tap the rectangle symbol at the top right of the map in this blog post to view the My Maps version larger on desktop.
Unfortunately, it’s not possible to view this version of the map offline, but we’ve created a similar version for offline use as per below.
HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (OFFLINE VERSION)
To use an offline map with all the same pins and routes marked, first download Maps.Me (iOS/Android), then download our Martvili Travel Guide bookmarks, and select open with Maps.Me.
You can easily navigate by tapping the bookmark for your start point and selecting ‘route from’, then tap your end point bookmark and select ‘route to’. If you want to plot a different route to the one suggested by Maps.me, just tap a third (or fourth, fifth, etc.) bookmark between the start and end points and select ‘add stop’.
You can use Maps.me offline or online, but note that the attached photos and links for each bookmark will only appear when you’re online.
TAKE A TRIP THROUGH MARTVILI CANYON
Let’s kick things off with Martvili Canyon, the area’s best known attraction. Once the bathing spot of choice for the ruling Dadiani family, there’s no doubt this is the most impressive canyon in the region. But, it does come with an entrance fee and, especially in the summer months, a constant stream of tourists.
There are two sections of the canyon to visit. To the left of the entrance a walkway and viewing platforms lead you a few hundred metres along the top of the canyon, looking down over multiple waterfalls and into the impressively blue-green water. Even in winter, the sculpted canyon walls are thick with green moss and ferns, a lush little paradise with arched bridges offering the perfect vantage point. To the right, you can paddle your way through a scenic section of canyon in an inflatable boat, getting up close to a small waterfall and peeking into dark cracks and crevices. The boat ride offers an interesting perspective from the bottom up, even if it only lasts about 15 minutes.
There are paid car parks by the entrance to Martvili Canyon (2 GEL) (42.45856, 42.37752). Walk down the hill to the ticket office, passing various stalls. Entry costs 17.25 GEL, plus 15 GEL for the boat trip (less for Georgian citizens and residents). It’s open daily from 10am – 5pm/6pm (depending on the season). We recommend visiting outside of peak summer season to avoid the crowds, or at the very least, go at 10am when it opens if you’re visiting in summer.
SWIM IN GACHEDILI CANYON
For a less touristic canyon experience, where you can actually get in the water for a swim, head a few hundred metres beyond the official Martvili Canyon entrance to what is known locally as Gachedili Canyon.
It’s a short walk from the main road, through a wooden gate, across a grassy field, and down through some trees. Here you’ll find a stretch of jade coloured river impossible to see from the road. Slabs of rock stretch out on either side of the water, perfect for picnicking or lounging around. To the left the sun-bathed canyon widens, the river lazily flowing around islands of pebbles. To the right it narrows, the tall canyon walls closing in to create a magical little fern-draped tunnel of moss-covered rock and refreshingly cool water.
Park at the side of the road or get dropped off here (42.46503, 42.37483). It’s a 5 minute walk to the canyon. Note that after rain (as with all rivers around Martvili) the water is cloudier and much faster flowing. The water level is also much higher, making it impossible to wade/swim up the canyon to the right. For the best experience, visit when it’s been dry for at least a couple of days.
SOAK IN NOKALAKEVI HOT SPRINGS & RIVER CANYON
While we wouldn’t dare get in the water outside of summer at other canyons and waterfalls mentioned in this guide, Nokalakevi is the one spot in the Martvili area that is even better come winter. Scalding hot sulphur water bubbles out of the ground and flows down over a calcified white waterfall, before trickling across a wide stretch of pebble beach and draining into the fast flowing Tekhuri river. Tall tree-dotted cliffs rise on the opposite side of the water, and its location at a bend in the river gives the Nokalakevi hot springs a cosy, secluded feel.
There are a couple of log benches in front of the waterfall – perfect for a steam bath – and if you have a high tolerance for hot water, it’s possible to take a shower of sorts underneath. Most people (including us!) prefer to soak in a makeshift bath closer to the river, where the water has had a chance to cool to a more bearable temperature. When the hot spring water gets too much, it’s only a short hop to the river for a chilling dip.
On a hot summer’s day, with the sun beating down on this exposed stretch of canyon, there’s every chance you’ll spend more time in the river than the sulphur springs. It’s pretty fast flowing by the hot pools, but if you walk around the bend to the left (east) and keep going for a few hundred metres, you’ll get to a narrow canyon section with rocks either side, perfect for jumping and swimming.
Note that there are no permanent hot spring baths here. Instead, pools are dug by hand among the pebbles at the riverside. There’s usually at least one ‘hot tub’ on the go, but when the river level rises after rain, these pools can be washed away and there’s no guarantee you’ll find a ready-made one. If you don’t want to leave it to chance, come prepared with a bucket or spade for digging your own pool! This area is a popular local picnic and BBQ spot, and also a great place for wild camping.
Park here (42.36572, 42.19514) and walk down the dirt path at the embankment to the riverside. The waterfall is to the right. The track from the main road down to the parking area is now paved, but it can get quite muddy in the parking area itself, so be careful if you have a 2WD or low clearance car. There are bins at the parking area. Lots of stray dogs live by the springs.
PICNIC AT BALDA CANYON
Our personal favourite of the canyons around Martvili, Balda Canyon is an enchanting little spot hidden away at the bottom of someone’s garden. Narrow, enclosed walls and a tunnel of twisted branches, lush ferns, and moss-covered boulders create a real fairytale vibe. And of course, like Gachedili and Martvili canyons to the south, the colour of the Abasha river water flowing through here is a spectacular shade of blue-green (except after heavy rain). There are a couple of picnic benches above the river, and plenty of rocks to spread out on and soak up the scene. You can swim in a deep pool of water at the point where you first emerge in the canyon, or wade/swim up the canyon to the left to find a narrower spot where the tall walls close in.
Park here (42.48869, 42.40657), then walk down the street to the right. You need to go through the garden of the first house on the left (there is an old sign advertising food by the gate). Usually there is someone there and they collect anywhere between 2 – 5 GEL per person for access. As with the other canyons, it’s best to visit when it’s been dry for a couple of days, otherwise the water will be high, cloudy, and fast flowing.
CHILL AT KAGHU WATERFALL
Not far from Balda Canyon is the small but attractive Kaghu Waterfall. The falls spill down over a moss-covered wall into a crystal clear pool, perfect for a refreshing dip in the heat of summer. In peak season it can be really busy and you can expect to find stalls selling drinks and snacks, but out of season it’s a quiet and peaceful spot.
Park at Balda Monastery (42.48796, 42.40865) and walk about 20 minutes along the dirt track to the falls, returning the same way.
HIKE THE THREE WATERFALLS TRAIL (ONIORE, TOBA, AND KAGHU)
In the hills above Balda Canyon and Kaghu Waterfall you can find two more impressive falls, Oniore and Toba Waterfalls. It takes around 6 – 8 hours on a 12 km loop hike to visit all three. The route partly follows dirt tracks which lead up from Guest House Balda to grazing pastures at an elevation of about 600 m, partly on walking paths to then reach the waterfalls, and partly on an overgrown trail following the Toba river. It’s possible to wild camp below Oniore Waterfall, or near a seasonal herder’s hut southwest of the falls, where you can also get elarji, homemade sulguni, and drinks (as long as Giorgi is there – ask beforehand at Guest House Balda to check).
The views up on the plateau are wonderful, looking across lush valleys to tree-covered cliffs. Note that when hiking alongside the Toba, it’s necessary to cross the river a few times, directly before/after Kaghu Waterfall (depending on your direction). Normally, the water level isn’t more than shin deep and you can often hop across stones, but you may want to come prepared with water sandals to change into. This part of the trail is also quite overgrown, so be sure to factor in extra time here for route-finding and diversions.
You can hike the trail in either direction. If the Toba river valley section is too overgrown, or you want to stick to a more straightforward trail, you can of course just go up and down the same way via the dirt tracks and herder’s hut. Park somewhere around Balda village (42.48487, 42.3994) or by Balda Monastery (42.48796, 42.40865). You can walk on a dirt track between the two places if you need to return to your car. There is a spring at the herder’s hut, and you can treat river water for drinking if necessary.
Before embarking on this day hike, make sure you are prepared with a refillable water bottle, food, proper footwear, all-weather clothing, a route map, and a power bank to keep your phone charged. Start in the morning (by 10am) to ensure you have enough time to complete the hike in daylight. You can view and download the hiking route on our map.
STAY AT KARMA HOSTEL
So much more than just a place to stay while visiting the area, Karma Hostel is reason enough to come to the region. Tucked away in a little village on the outskirts of Martvili, Karma is one of Georgia’s most unique accommodation options. An old house given a new lease of life by three friends from Belgium and Poland – Max, Emanuela, and Woody – its open plan living areas, backyard bar, and lush expansive garden make it equally conducive to socialising or relaxing in nature.
Retro furniture and salvaged Soviet-era artwork blend with hand-crafted furnishings and design pieces to create a style of its own. Karma is a hostel in name but more of a guesthouse in nature, with the owners whipping up a daily vegetarian breakfast and dinner feast for guests to enjoy together at large indoor and outdoor tables. You can rent bikes to explore the local area, or do as many do and simply chill in a hammock surrounded by the resident dogs, cats, chickens, and sheep. Fair warning though, a night or two can easily turn into a week-long stay, or in our case, a few months!
Karma Hostel has three private rooms and a spacious dorm with privacy curtains, lights, and sockets for each bed. There is a large shared bathroom for all guests. It’s also possible to camp in the garden. There is plenty of room to park outside the gate. Book your stay here.
SPLASH AROUND AT TSACHKHURI WATERFALL
The winding uphill drive to Tsachkhuru St Archangels Church and the sprawling vista from the top is reason enough to include this in your Martvili itinerary. However the real highlight is nearby Tsachkhuri Waterfall, plunging into an aqua pool before cascading down to a series of smaller pools below. It’s a short and straightforward walk from the car park at the church to the waterfall itself, across a small grassy meadow and along a wide stony path. After about 10 – 15 minutes you’ll come off the main path and climb down a short trail to the waterfall.
Park here (42.55732, 42.34234), next to the church. It’s about a 20 minute walk one way to the waterfall.
HIKE TO KHIRZENI LAKES
From the meadow near Tsachkhuri Waterfall a trail climbs for around 400 metres to three lakes hidden in the forest. There is an information board at the start of the trail, but no markers beyond this, so it’s best to follow our downloadable GPX (Gaia GPS, OSMand apps, etc.) /KML (Maps.me app) tracks to find the lakes. Note that we recorded the one-way track in reverse, starting at the lake and ending at the car park.
After initially climbing the steep grassy hill behind the church, the trail follows a rocky forest path then runs parallel to a stream. You need to cross this stream (you should be able to hop over rocks), then climb up a short but steep slope of loose dirt and stones. Follow the trail round to the left and you’ll emerge at a large grassy meadow with wonderful views over Samegrelo. This also makes a nice wild camping spot.
Continue climbing up the open hillside, passing a herder’s hut on the left. Jumberi may well invite you in for coffee if he’s around. The trail enters a forest and remains in the trees for the rest of the hike. When you reach an elevation of around 1000 m, you’ll pass by a first, then a second lake. The third and final lake is a little higher up, the not-so-obvious path leading to its northwestern shore. It is completely surrounded by thick forest with the trees coming right to the shoreline – a very peaceful spot and a pretty impressive sight. Allow 3 – 4 hours for the return hike.
Park here (42.55732, 42.34234), next to the church. There are herds of cows and curious Asiatic water buffaloes roaming the upper meadow, so it’s wise not to leave your tent unattended if you plan on camping around here. Proper footwear is recommended for the hike (not flip flops or such like). The lakes are enclosed in dense jungle-like forest and aren’t really suitable for swimming in. There is water at the church but no springs on the hike, just stream water. Make sure to carry enough water with you.
SAVOUR THE TASTE OF SAMEGRELO AT ODA MARANI
No trip to Martvili is complete without sampling the delicious Megrelian food at Oda Marani, washed down with a glass or three of Keto Ninidze’s excellent wine. The outdoor seating in the grounds of her family’s oda house makes for a tranquil setting. The menu includes Mingrelian classics like kharcho (beef in a richly spiced walnut sauce), gebzhalia (cheese with mint), kuchmachi (mixed beef heart and liver), elarji (stretchy cornmeal mixed with cheese), a delicious spread of pkhali (veggie dips and pastes), fresh salad, and moreish khachapuri (bread stuffed with cheese, with extra cheese on top).
Keto’s wine includes local grape varieties such as Ojaleshi and Tsolikouri, and less common ones such as Dzelshavi from Racha. On a warm summer’s evening it’s all too easy to while away a few hours here, working your way through the wine list and feasting on some of the best food in Georgia.
Oda Marani is open 12pm – 9pm daily in season (Spring until Autumn). Contact them on +995 598 900 379 to make a reservation.
GO HIKING IN THE EGRISI RANGE
There are some fantastic multi-day hikes in the mountains to the north of Martvili, including Tobavarchkhili Lakes and Lebarde Lakes. Both are quite challenging and require you to be self-sufficient, carrying camping gear and food – definitely suited to experienced hikers only! The hiking season is from July – September.
TOBAVARCHKHILI LAKES
Tobavarchkhili Lakes are a beautiful string of alpine lakes surrounded by jagged mountains. Most people start the 4 – 5 day hike from Mukhuri. There is a 4×4 gravel road leading to Natipuru Hut, from where the hiking trail proper starts. From Tobavarchkhili you can then hike north to Khaishi, on the Zugdidi – Mestia road, or southwest to Skuri, about 9 km from Mukhuri.
LEBARDE LAKES
The Soviet era ‘resort’ area of Lebarde sits at about 1600 m, at the end of a 34 km rough track (best travelled via 6×6 truck – try Gocha on +995 555 225 656 to arrange a trip). There are a few shepherd huts and an abandoned cinema. From here you can hike to Big and Small Lebarde Lakes (confusingly also called Tobavarchkhili sometimes, meaning ‘silver lakes’).
The hike is 12.5 km one way, taking 6+ hours. It’s possible to hike to the lakes and back to Lebarde in one day (9+ hours), but a better option is to camp by the big lake and hike back the following day. You can find a GPX track of the route on Viewranger, and a longer GPX track on Georgian Travel Guide, which includes the route from the main road to Lebarde and from the lakes towards the Tskaltubo – Tsageri road. We’ve included this route on our map for reference.
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ADMIRE THE SAMEGRELO HOUSES
There’s something pretty special about the houses in Samegrelo. Traditionally, these were wooden oda houses, built on stilts with four simple rooms and an ornately carved balcony. They were designed to be moveable, with each wooden component being numbered, disassembled, transported, and reassembled. These days, many oda houses are abandoned, or in need of a lot of love and care. Drive around the region and you’ll spot them, often in faded shades of green, blue, pink, or just natural wood.
Other unique features of Samegrelo homes are their immaculate yards (a point of pride for Megrelians) and the existence of a little and large house on the property. Traditionally the small single-storey house was used as a separate kitchen, with the large two-storey house the main living area. These often have beautiful carved balconies and outside staircases connecting the first and second floor. Samegrelo houses are especially beautiful in Autumn, during and after the hurma (persimmon) harvest. Strings of the fruit are hung up in lines to dry, creating a curtain of orange on every balcony.
SEE THE FRESCOES AT MARTVILI MONASTERY
Sitting atop a hill in the middle of Martvili is a small but attractive monastic complex, dating back to the 7th century. To reach it you can drive, walk, or take a quick trip on the Soviet-era cable car which runs from the town.
There are three buildings set in the tranquil grounds, plus the main Martvili-Chkondidi Cathedral. Inside, impressive frescoes cover the walls in varying states of completeness. Outside, elaborate carvings of figures embellish the stone walls. There are wonderful views of the surrounding landscape from the monastery, especially in early morning or around sunset when the hills glow and light glints off the snaking rivers below.
Park here (42.40561, 42.37883) and walk up the steps to the monastery grounds. Alternatively, walk up the hill via the road or take the cable car (3 minutes, 1 GEL return. The hours of operation are sporadic so you may need to call the number posted nearby to arrange a ride).
HOW TO GET AROUND MARTVILI
It’s definitely advantageous to have your own car to explore the best things to see and do around Martvili. But, if you’re travelling independently there are a few ways to get around.
One option is to hire a taxi for the day to take you around the sights (eg. Martvili, Gachedili, and Balda Canyons, plus Nokalakevi Hot Springs). This will cost around 70 – 100 GEL.
You can hire a bike from Karma Hostel for 25 GEL per day. It is a 30 km return trip to cycle to Martvili, Gachedili, and Balda Canyons. If you’re fit, you could also include a loop down to the hot springs and back, making it a 67 km round trip in total. We’ve added two suggested cycle loops to our map, which you can download to your phone and use to navigate online or offline.
Hitchhiking is also common, particularly for reaching Martvili and Gachedili Canyons.
It’s also possible to walk between Martvili, Gachedili, and Balda Canyons, mostly on dirt tracks. Follow the cycling route outlined on our map. It’s about 5 km one way from Martvili Canyon to Balda Canyon, or an 11 km loop, returning via the road through the village. A combination of hitchhiking along the main road and walking the dirt track is a good idea.
Check Out Our Georgia Road Trip Itineraries
HOW TO GET TO MARTVILI
BY CAR
Martvili is in the Samegrelo region of western Georgia. It’s about 280 km and 5 hours drive from Tbilisi, 150 km and 3 hours from Batumi, and just 44 km and less than 1 hour from Kutaisi.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
You can take a direct marshrutka (minibus) from Tbilisi, Batumi, or Kutaisi. The closest train station is Samtredia, approximately 40 minutes drive away. Karma Hostel can arrange a taxi to pick you up at the train station for 50 GEL.
MARSHRUTKA
Marshrutka times can change without notice so it’s always best to double check locally. Also, bear in mind that even when there’s a schedule some marshrutkas won’t leave until they are full. In Martvili, they arrive at and depart from a parking area in the centre, across from the monastery cable car.
If you’re travelling to/from Tbilisi and miss the direct marshrutka, an alternative option is to travel first to Kutaisi then change. In Kutaisi, the marshrutkas arrive at and depart from the same bus station (by the McDonald’s on Chavchavadze).
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