UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING GUIDE

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING GUIDE

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK

The Essential Guide

In this guide we cover everything you need to know about trekking in the Upper Mustang region of Nepal. This includes suggested trek itineraries avoiding the road, a trekking route map, and an overview of the villages and sights to visit. We also include practical information about how to organise your trek, when to go, accommodation, food, costs, permits, transport, and more.

UPPER MUSTANG TREK GUIDE CONTENTS

UPPER MUSTANG TREK OVERVIEW

UPPER MUSTANG TREK VIDEO

UPPER MUSTANG TREK MAP

UPPER MUSTANG BRIEF HISTORY

UPPER MUSTANG TREK ITINERARY

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTES

THE EASTERN ROUTE
THE CLASSIC + WESTERN ROUTE
(AVOIDING THE ROAD)

WHICH UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

OVERVIEW OF UPPER MUSTANG VILLAGES AND SIGHTS

WHEN TO TREK IN UPPER MUSTANG

UPPER MUSTANG TREK DIFFICULTY

HOW TO ORGANISE AN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

UPPER MUSTANG PERMITS

ACCOMMODATION IN UPPER MUSTANG

FOOD AND DRINK ON AN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

SAFE DRINKING WATER

INTERNET AND CHARGING

MONEY MATTERS

UPPER MUSTANG TREK COSTS

WHAT TO PACK FOR THE TREK

ALTITUDE AWARENESS AND AMS

TREKKING TRAVEL INSURANCE

ADD-ON TREKS

GETTING TO/FROM THE TRAIL

GETTING TO NEPAL

NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

WHERE TO STAY IN KATHMANDU

UPPER MUSTANG TREK RESOURCES AND FURTHER READING

Upper Mustang is a place unlike any other in Nepal. Despite bordering one of the most popular trekking areas in the country, it sits a world apart in the rain shadow of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna Massif. This creates a semi-arid landscape of unique and colourful rock formations, plateaus, and dramatic gorges. Its distinct Tibetan Buddhist heritage means that a trek in Upper Mustang is as much about the cultural experience as it is the spectacular landscape, and enjoyment of moving through it slowly on foot.

Colourful Sungda Chorten, sitting in the middle of the dusty road between Tsarang and Lo Manthang

A trek in Upper Mustang allows you to experience spectacular semi-arid landscapes and rich Tibetan Buddhist culture

A trek in Upper Mustang allows you
to experience spectacular semi-arid landscapes
and rich Tibetan Buddhist culture

But, this once ‘hidden kingdom’ is changing. Historic salt trade routes have been developed into modern Chinese truck trading routes. Former trekking trails have become the Kali Gandaki Corridor, a road connecting Jomsom to Lo Manthang, and all the way to Kora La at the Tibet (China) border, changing the nature of a trek here forever.

Our own (poorly researched) trek in Upper Mustang was a whirlwind of highs and lows, with plans constantly evolving in response to a trek that, initially at least, seemed more like a very expensive trudge along a construction road. However, it ended with three of the most memorable trekking days we’ve ever had, walking through a landscape unlike anywhere we’ve ever been and turning our entire notion of an Upper Mustang trek on its head.

Learning from our own experiences and mistakes, we’ve put together this Upper Mustang Trekking Guide to help you steer clear of the road and ensure you have the very best trek experience that Upper Mustang has to offer.

For a day to day account of our own trek check out our Upper Mustang Trek Itinerary, and our Upper Mustang Instagram Stories from the trail (part one/part two/part three), along with our video below.

Use the links below to jump to each section of this guide

UPPER MUSTANG TREK GUIDE CONTENTS

UPPER MUSTANG TREK OVERVIEW

UPPER MUSTANG TREK VIDEO

UPPER MUSTANG TREK MAP

UPPER MUSTANG BRIEF HISTORY

UPPER MUSTANG TREK ITINERARY

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTES

THE EASTERN ROUTE
THE CLASSIC + WESTERN ROUTE
(AVOIDING THE ROAD)

WHICH UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

OVERVIEW OF UPPER MUSTANG VILLAGES AND SIGHTS

WHEN TO TREK IN UPPER MUSTANG

UPPER MUSTANG TREK DIFFICULTY

HOW TO ORGANISE AN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

UPPER MUSTANG PERMITS

ACCOMMODATION IN UPPER MUSTANG

FOOD AND DRINK ON AN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

SAFE DRINKING WATER

INTERNET AND CHARGING

MONEY MATTERS

UPPER MUSTANG TREK COSTS

WHAT TO PACK FOR THE TREK

ALTITUDE AWARENESS AND AMS

TREKKING TRAVEL INSURANCE

ADD-ON TREKS

GETTING TO/FROM THE TRAIL

GETTING TO NEPAL

NEPAL TOURIST VISAS

WHERE TO STAY IN KATHMANDU

UPPER MUSTANG TREK RESOURCES AND FURTHER READING

*Some of the links in this post are affiliate links – if you purchase a product or service via these links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps offset the cost of running this blog and keeps us travelling so that we can continue to produce great content for you. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases. We greatly appreciate your support!*

UPPER MUSTANG TREK OVERVIEW

- HIGHLIGHTS | Semi-arid plateau landscape of unique rock formations and colours; ancient Tibetan culture
- DISTANCE | Approx 150 km
- DURATION | Flexible; we recommend 18 days Kathmandu – Kathmandu (11 days in Restricted Area)
- START/END | Kagbeni / Muktinath, Lower Mustang
- PERMITS REQUIRED | Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit $50 per day; ACAP 3000 NPR (1000 NPR for SAARC nationals)
- TREKKING SEASON | March – November Peak Seasons: April and May (plus Tiji Festival), October and November Shoulder Season: March and September Low Season: June to August Avoid: December to February
- TREK DIFFICULTY | Moderate – Challenging (very windy and dusty, some long trekking days with no teahouses along the route)
- ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS | Approx + 8492 metres / – 7691 metres (following our suggested itinerary)
- MAX ALTITUDE | Choku La 4280 m
- GUIDE MANDATORY? | Yes – Upper Mustang is a restricted area so you must trek with a licenced guide
- ACCOMMODATION | Teahouses/Guesthouses in villages
- TREK COST | $80 – $150+ USD per person, per day (budget trekker travelling in a pair to fully inclusive package)
- RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY | Himalayan Masters, Quote HOGG5 for 5% discount

UPPER MUSTANG TREK OVERVIEW

HIGHLIGHTS
Semi-arid plateau landscape of unique rock formations and colours;
Ancient Tibetan culture

DISTANCE
Approx 150 km

DURATION
Flexible;
we recommend 18 days Kathmandu – Kathmandu
(11 days in Restricted Area)

START/END
Kagbeni / Muktinath, Lower Mustang

PERMITS REQUIRED
Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit
$50 per day
ACAP 3000 NPR
(1000 NPR for SAARC nationals)

TREKKING SEASON
March – November
Peak Seasons:
April and May (plus Tiji Festival),
October and November
Shoulder Season:
March and September
Low Season:
June to August
Avoid:
December to February

TREK DIFFICULTY
Moderate – Challenging
(very windy and dusty, some long trekking days with no teahouses along the route)

ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS
Approx + 8492 metres;
– 7691 metres
(following our suggested itinerary)

MAX ALTITUDE
Choku La 4280 m

GUIDE MANDATORY?
Yes
Upper Mustang is a restricted area so you must trek with a licenced guide

ACCOMMODATION
Guesthouses in villages

TREK COST
$80 – $150+ USD
per person, per day
(budget trekker travelling in a pair to fully inclusive package)

RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY
Himalayan Masters
Quote HOGG5 for 5% discount

UPPER MUSTANG TREK VIDEO

Watch our video from Upper Mustang to get a sense of the landscape and cultural experience of a trek here. Note that our route on the way to Lo Manthang followed the road and we do not recommend this! Instead, follow the trekking trail routes outlined in this guide and shown on our map for the best Upper Mustang trek experience. You can see what the spectacular Eastern Route is like on the return half of our trek.

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING MAP

Below is our Upper Mustang Trekking map marking all of the routes outlined in this guide. This includes the Classic + Western route between Kagbeni and Lo Manthang, the Eastern Route between Lo Manthang and Muktinath, and the sights to see around Lo Manthang.

It also includes the routes to avoid because they are now almost entirely road (marked in black/dark grey). Key villages, sights, passes, and suspension bridges are also marked. Options for good acclimatisation hikes in Lower Mustang, and trekking routes from Muktinath to Kagbeni/Jomsom are marked too.

Tap the menu button at the top left for more details, to toggle layers on and off, and switch between satellite and terrain view. Click the rectangular box top right to view full screen.

To use an offline version of this map, download our Upper Mustang Trek KML file for use with a mapping app such as Organic Maps (iOS/Android). See our expandable boxes below for tips on using this map online and offline.

This is a useful online version of a popular paper trekking map of the region. The trekking trail routes are marked in bold yellow, the roads are white.

HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (ONLINE VERSION)

To save this map to use online on desktop or mobile just tap the star symbol at the top. When you open Google Maps on your phone, navigate to ‘You’ at the bottom, then select ‘Maps’. You’ll find this map in your list of maps.

When using Google Maps on desktop, select ‘Saved’, then ‘Maps’. Select the map, then select ‘Open in My Maps’ to access the interactive version. Alternatively, just tap the rectangle symbol at the top right of the map in this blog post to view the My Maps version larger on desktop.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to view this version of the map offline, but we’ve created a similar version for offline use as per below.

HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (OFFLINE VERSION)

To use an offline map on your phone or tablet with all the same pins marked, first download Organic Maps (iOS/Android), then download the Upper Mustang Trek KML file above, and select open with Organic Maps. Be sure to download the Nepal map while still online.

You can easily navigate by tapping the bookmark for your start point and selecting ‘route from’, then tap your end point bookmark and select ‘route to’. If you want to plot a different route to the one suggested by the app, just tap a third (or fourth, fifth, etc.) bookmark between the start and end points and select ‘add stop’.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF UPPER MUSTANG

Ancient cave dwellings, found all over Upper Mustang to this day, suggest the region was first inhabited 2000 – 3000 years ago. But for the last 600 years, the inhabitants have been the Lopas (or Lobas), people related both ethnically and culturally to those of Tibet. The Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism is dominant, although Nyingma, Kagyo and Bon are also present. Shades of ochre, white, and grey make up the colours of the dramatic landscape, with those same colours adorning monasteries, chortens and mani walls throughout the land. They represent three Bodhisattvas and act as protectors, but also create a chromatic harmony between man-made structures and the surrounding environment.

A Triple Protector (Rigsum Gonpo) statue in Tsarang with three columns in grey, white and orange, with similarly coloured mountains in the background

Between the monastery and palace in Tsarang, the stones of the ‘Three Protectors’ (Rigsum Gonpo) face the mountains to the east

Between the monastery and palace in Tsarang,
the stones of the ‘Three Protectors’ (Rigsum
Gonpo) face the mountains to the east

THE KINGDOM OF LO

Historically, the region fell under control of the Ngari district of Tibet, with the independent Kingdom of Lo later being founded in 1380, by Ame Pal, a warrior from Western Tibet. He established the walled city of Lo Manthang, and in 1440 the palace at Tsarang was built, along with many other forts and settlements for the growing population.

The ruins of the old King's and Queen's castles, sitting high on two separate hills to the north of the walled city of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang.

The remnants of the old King’s (right) and Queen’s (left) castles on the hills to the north of Lo Manthang

The ruins of the old King's Castle, sitting high on a hill to the north of the walled city of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang.

The ruins of the old King’s Castle, high
on the hill to the north of Lo Manthang

Thanks to its strategic position, the Kingdom flourished throughout the 15th – 17th centuries. Lo controlled the prosperous salt trade route between Tibet in the north and India in the south, via the Kali Gandaki gorge. In the late 18th century, the independent Kingdom of Lo was incorporated into the greater Kingdom of Nepal, but continued to operate under its own rule.

Life for the people of Lo carried on much the same until the 1950s, when the Chinese invasion of Tibet put an end to cross border trade and the local economy suffered. In the late 1950s and 60s, Tibetan guerrillas, backed by the CIA, based their resistance out of Lo. An agreement between China and the US was reached in the early 1970s, and the CIA withdrew their support for the guerrillas in 1974, effectively ending the resistance movement.

TOURISM BEGINS

While tourism in Lower Mustang opened in the late 1970s, Upper Mustang was declared a restricted area and completely off-limits to foreigners until 1992, earning it the moniker ‘The Forbidden Kingdom of Lo’. Early tourism to the region was strictly limited and regulated. No lodges were allowed to be built by local people, with trekking agencies operating camping treks and bringing all their supplies with them. The opportunity for locals to benefit financially was largely limited to those with flat camping grounds or horses to hire out for a day trip from Lo Manthang.

As compensation, the Lopa were promised 60% of the revenue from the hefty $500 Upper Mustang permit fee. This money would be reinvested into the community to develop services and infrastructure, fund the restoration of cultural treasures, and support environmental conservation. It didn’t happen. The Lopa received around 40% initially, dropping to 5% by 1997, and seemingly all but drying up in the years since.

The striped walls and blocky red building of the 16th Century Tsarang Gompa in Upper Mustang

The impressive Thubten Shedrup Dhagyeling Monastery at Tsarang, the former capital

The impressive Thubten Shedrup Dhagyeling
Monastery at Tsarang, the former capital

In the meantime, tourists, filmmakers, and photojournalists were flocking to the ‘mysterious forbidden kingdom’ (the restrictions on numbers went out the window, too). Locals found their photos plastered over books and shiny mags, and no doubt felt they’d been taken advantage of. The entire situation understandably led to a degree of resentment and bitterness among some in the community.

UPPER MUSTANG TODAY

The descendents of Ame Pal ruled as the Kings of Lo for 25 generations. However, in 2008 when Nepal became a republic, the country abolished its monarchy and that of Lo with it. The last King of Lo, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, continued to be recognised and revered by locals until his death in 2016.

The smiling female owner of the Dhye Riverside Hotel in Upper Mustang

A friendly teahouse owner at Dhye

These days, the situation in Upper Mustang seems quite different to that of the initial decade or so after opening to the world. Fully supported camping treks are no longer a must, with locally owned and operated lodges dotting the region. Reports of ‘unwelcoming’ locals, demanding money for photos or shouting ‘no photo’ at tourists, didn’t match with our own experience. We can only assume that perhaps the situation, economically at least, has improved somewhat and therefore that attitudes towards tourists have warmed? Culturally and environmentally though, Upper Mustang is certainly at risk from the ongoing development of the road to the border at Kora La. This road, while beneficial to Upper Mustang communities in many respects, will undoubtedly make it harder for the centuries-old culture and traditions of the region to cling on in a rapidly changing environment, irrevocably altering the former Kingdom of Lo forever.

OUR RECOMMENDED TREKKING AGENCY

We’ve trekked with a few different agencies in Nepal and our best experience by far has been with Himalayan Masters. We trekked with them on our Langtang Valley, Gosainkunda, and Everest Three Passes treks and found them to be very professional and committed to a high level of service.

To enquire about booking your own Upper Mustang trek, get in touch via email at info@himalayan-masters.com and mention our code HOGG5 to get a 5% discount off the cost of your trek

UPPER MUSTANG TREK ITINERARY

AVOIDING THE ROAD

Our suggested Upper Mustang trek itinerary covers what we feel are the scenic and cultural highlights of the region, and avoids the road almost entirely.

Trekking times are approximate and don’t include stops for lunch, etc.

If viewing on a mobile device or tablet, scroll to the right to see the full table or flip your screen to landscape mode

DAY	ROUTE	DISTANCE & TIME	ELEVATION GAIN	ELEVATION LOSS	MAX ELEVATION	SLEEP ALTITUDE	NOTES
DAY 1 (by jeep)	KAGBENI → SAMAR	25 km 2 hours	1314 m	615 m	3660 m	3660 m	Visit Tange on the way
DAY 1 (trekking via Tiri)	KAGBENI → TIRI→ GHILUNGPA KHOLA → MANI LA (3800 m) → KHEKU LA (3650 m) → SAMAR	20 km 10 hours	1782 m	978 m	3794 m	3660 m	No lodges on the way, carry a packed lunch
DAY 2	SAMAR→ CHUNGSI CAVE → SYANGBOCHE → TAMAGAON → GHILING	12.1 km 6 hours	805 m	874 m	3810 m	3570 m	Lodges at Syangboche for lunch Visit Ghiling Gompa
DAY 3*	GHILING → KEKE LA (4030 m) → GHAMI → DHAKMAR → DHAKMAR LA (4000 m) → TSARANG	17.2 km 7 hours	951 m	913 m	4030 m	3560 m	Lodges at Ghami and Dhakmar for lunch Visit Tsarang Gompa
DAY 4	TSARANG → GHAR GOMPA → CHOKU LA (4280 m) → LO MANTHANG	17.4 km 7 hours	785 m	542 m	4280 m	3810 m	No lodges on the way, carry a packed lunch
DAY 5	LO MANTHANG	–	–	–	–	3810 m	Visit the gompas and explore the walled city
DAY 6	AROUND LO MANTHANG	Varies	Varies	Varies	Varies	3810 m	Horse / motorbike / jeep tour recommended to see the most
DAY 7	LO MANTHANG → DHI → YARA	15.8 km 7 hours	526 m	747 m	4068 m	3650 m	Lodges at Dhi for lunch
DAY 8	YARA → TASHI KABUM → LURI GOMPA → GHARA → YARA	10 km 4 hours	384 m	384 m	3953 m	3650 m	Lodges at Ghara for lunch or take packed lunch Ask at Yara for the key holder
DAY 9	YARA → DHYE → TANGGE	15.6 km 7 hours	824 m	1076 m	3904 m	3340 m	Lodge at Dhye for lunch (check in advance if it’s open)
DAY 10	TANGGE → PA → CHHUSANG	24 km 10 hours	1240 m	1643 m	4200 m	2980 m	No lodges on the way, carry a packed lunch and enough water for the whole day
DAY 11	CHHUSANG → TETANG → GYU LA (4077 m) → MUKTINATH	15 km 8 hours	1195 m	534 m	4077 m	3700 m	No lodges after Tetang, carry a packed lunch and enough water for the whole day

*For a more relaxed pace, overnight in Dhakmar and continue to Tsarang the next day (adding 1 day to your itinerary)

*It’s also possible to skip Tsarang and continue from Dhakmar to Ghar Gompa via Mui La (4170 m). In this case, overnight at Dhakmar and continue all the way to Lo Manthang the next day.

This itinerary starts in Kagbeni and ends in Muktinath and does not account for travel days getting to and from Lower Mustang. You will need to add at least 2 days for travel to/from Pokhara or 4 days for travel to/from Kathmandu.

The town of Kagbeni, the start and end point of the Upper Mustang trek, juts out into the Kali Gandaki Gorge.

Kagbeni (2810 m), the starting point of an Upper Mustang trek. We recommend spending an extra 2 days here and going on day hikes to higher altitude if you’re not already acclimatised to elevations of 3500 – 4000 metres.

Kagbeni (2810 m), the starting point
of an Upper Mustang trek. We recommend
spending an extra 2 days here and going
on day hikes to higher altitude if you’re
not already acclimatised to elevations
of 3500 – 4000 metres.

Additionally, if you are not already acclimatised (having spent time at altitudes of 3500 – 4000 metres within the previous week), we recommend adding an extra 2 days in Kagbeni at the start and going on acclimatisation day hikes. Good options include Lupra, the hill opposite Kagbeni on the western side of the Kali Gandaki, and the dirt track to Putak and Jhong on the northern side of the Jhong Khola. From Muktinath you can take a jeep to Jomsom, or trek via Lupra or Jhong to Kagbeni, or trek via Lupra to Jomsom.

READ ABOUT OUR OWN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

(and learn why you should follow our recommended itinerary and not the standard route we took!)

Upper Mustang Trek Itinerary poster featuring a large chorten in a semi-arid hilly landscape.

OUR UPPER MUSTANG DAY-BY-DAY ACCOUNT

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTES

AVOIDING THE ROAD

The classic trekking route between Kagbeni and Lo Manthang has been replaced almost entirely by road, yet (unbelievably!) the majority of trek itineraries outlined by trekking agencies still follow this route. Unless you enjoy slogging for days on a dusty road with jeeps, trucks and motorbikes, we do not recommend this. The reality is that it is still possible to trek to and from Lo Manthang largely avoiding the road. You just need to know what trails to take and arrange your trek with a guide/agency that is willing to adapt their standard itinerary and follow the off-road routes.

An elderly woman in traditional Tibetan dress spinning prayer wheels along a striped wall in Tsarang

Tsarang, the second largest village in Upper Mustang, after Lo Manthang

Trekkers on a trail approaching a round orange rock formation with a plateau stretched out into the distance in Upper Mustang

Dramatic landscapes on the eastern trekking route in Upper Mustang, betweenthe villages of Yara and Tangge

Dramatic landscapes on the eastern trekking
route, between Yara and Tangge

THE EASTERN ROUTE
via Yara, Tangge and Gyu La

It’s possible to trek on the eastern side of the Kali Gandaki (the river that carves its way through the centre of Upper Mustang) between Lo Manthang and Muktinath over 4+ days, almost entirely on trekking trail and far away from any roads. The eastern route is quite challenging, but absolutely spectacular and the highlight of an Upper Mustang trek in our opinion. Despite this, very few trekking agencies even mention the existence of this trail, let alone include it in their trek itineraries.

This route involves some long trekking days and some lengthy, steep ascents and descents in often windy conditions. Compared to the route on the western side of the Kali Gandaki, there are limited food and lodging options, and you must carry a packed lunch for 2 or 3 of the days.

A trekker sitting admiring the view of a flat high plateau and colourful mountain ridge beyond whilst trekking in Upper Mustang

The eastern trekking route involves some long days and plenty of elevation gain and loss, but it is a highlight of trekking in Upper Mustang

The eastern trekking route involves some
long days and plenty of elevation gain and loss,
but it is a highlight of trekking in Upper Mustang

The eastern route connects Lo Manthang and Chhusang via the villages of Dhi, Yara and Tangge (arguably the most scenic village in Upper Mustang), with the option for a side trek from Yara to Luri Gompa and Tashi Kabum (caves with 800 year old frescoes) and Ghara village. From Chhusang you can trek on trail via the village of Tetang over Gyu La (4070 m) to Muktinath.

It’s possible to trek in either direction, although the overall elevation gain is a few hundred metres less if trekking southbound. On the flipside, the prevailing wind is from the south, so a northbound trek may be more pleasant in this region infamous for its strong afternoon winds, especially in spring.

Bizarre pinnacled rock formations of varying shades of ochre, seen from a trail on an Upper Mustang trek from Tangge to Chhusang

The kind of spectacular rocky landscape that you can only see up close on the Upper Mustang Eastern Route

Spectacular rocky landscapes that you can only
see up close on the Upper Mustang Eastern Route

THE CLASSIC + WESTERN ROUTE
via Chungsi Cave, Dhakmar, Tsarang, Ghar Gompa & Choku La

The classic trekking route between Kagbeni and Lo Manthang has been replaced by a road, however you can still enjoy trekking on the western side of the Kali Gandaki by following off-road trails between Chele/Samar and Ghemi, and then taking the ‘Western Route’ via Dhakmar and Choku La to Lo Manthang, with the option of including Tsarang on the way.

Below is an overview of the classic route between Kagbeni and Lo Manthang, detailing the sections to avoid due to the road, and the alternative trekking trail routes you should take instead.

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE AVOIDING THE ROAD

❌ CLASSIC TREKKING ROUTE

KAGBENI to CHELE via Tange and Chhusang (lunch)

✅ ALTERNATIVE ROUTE AVOIDING ROAD

This section is entirely road and as such we’d recommend taking a jeep instead of walking, starting your Upper Mustang trek at Samar.

If you do want to walk, it’s possible to trek between Muktinath and Chhusang via Gyu La (4077 m), which is the route we recommend for your return trek following the Eastern Route.

Another possibility which we can’t personally verify, but on paper looks viable, is to trek from Kagbeni to Tiri, then ascend by an apple farm to a suspension bridge crossing the Ghilungpa (Kyalungpa) Khola, over Mani La (3800 m) and Kheku La to Ghyakar (500 metres above Chele), and ending at Samar. It’s hard to find information online about this route, however the trail is marked on trekking maps, the suspension bridge and trails are visible on satellite view, and we have come across a couple of accounts online of this route (comment 14 on this thread and days 5/6 of this camping itinerary from a French tour company). There is no food or lodging between Tiri and Samar, so you would have to carry a packed lunch and you can expect it to be a long day with a considerable amount of ascent and descent (approximately 20 km, 1800 m elevation gain, 800 m elevation loss, ~ 10 hours hiking time). If you’re an adventurous hiker and decide to try this route, we’d love to hear your feedback in the comments to help other trekkers : )

❌ CLASSIC TREKKING ROUTE

CHELE to SYANGBOCHE via Samar (lunch) and Chungsi Cave (or worse via Bhena La and Yamda La on the road)

✅ ALTERNATIVE ROUTE AVOIDING ROAD

From Chele the trekking route is either on the road, or close to the road, as it climbs 1.8 km and 200 metres in elevation to a suspension bridge crossing to the village of Ghyakar.

At the suspension bridge you leave the road and follow a trekking trail or old dirt tracks for almost the entirety of the route to Syangboche, via Ghyakar, Samar, and Chungsi Cave.

Although the amount of road walking is fairly minimal between Chele and Ghyakar, our recommendation is to skip this section and take a jeep straight to Samar. From here you can continue to Ghiling (Geling) (a large village with a 15th century monastery) via Chungsi Cave instead of overnighting at Syangboche (a few guesthouses lining the road).

❌ CLASSIC TREKKING ROUTE

SYANGBOCHE to GHAMI via Tamagaon, Jhaite, Nyi La and Ghami La

✅ ALTERNATIVE ROUTE AVOIDING ROAD

This section is almost entirely on road. Do not follow this route. Instead, follow the old dirt track alongside the road to Tamagaon and descend on dirt track to Ghiling (Geling), briefly crossing the road on the way.

From Ghiling, you can take a trekking trail via Keke La (4033 m) almost the entire way to Ghami, just briefly crossing the road before Ghami La, and on the way into Ghami village itself.

❌ CLASSIC TREKKING ROUTE

GHAMI to TSARANG via Tsarang La and TSARANG to LO MANTHANG via Lo La

✅ ALTERNATIVE ROUTE AVOIDING ROAD

This route is almost entirely on or near the road. Don’t take this route.

Instead, you can walk almost entirely on trekking trail north to Dhakmar, east to Tsarang via Dhakmar La (4000 m), northwest to Ghar Gompa, then over Choku La (4280 m) to Lo Manthang.

Skipping Tsarang, you can trek directly from Dhakmar to Ghar Gompa north via Mui La (4170 m). This is commonly known as the ‘Western Route’ and is often included in standard trekking package itineraries as a variation on the return route from Lo Manthang (having visited Tsarang on the way north).

WHICH UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

Our suggested itinerary outlines what we consider to be the best Upper Mustang trekking route, combining the Classic/Western routes on the way to Lo Manthang, and returning via the Eastern Route. It is a more challenging itinerary than the standard one outlined by the majority of trekking agencies, however it enables you to experience the highlights of Upper Mustang from both a cultural and scenic perspective. Most importantly, it is actually a trekking route, not just a walk on the dusty road!

If for whatever reason you want to shorten our suggested itinerary, you could choose either the Classic/Western Route or the Eastern Route, and combine it with a jeep ride between Lo Manthang and Jomsom.

Of these two routes, we would highly recommend choosing the Eastern Route, as you will experience the most dramatic landscapes, stay in the most remote traditional villages, and avoid any road walking almost entirely. We’d suggest allowing 5 days to trek from Lo Manthang to Muktinath (as per our itinerary), or 6 days if trekking from Muktinath to Lo Manthang (with an extra night at Tangge to allow you time to enjoy the village and rest after two big trekking days, and swapping the second night at Yara for a night at Dhi after visiting Luri Gompa). Including 3 nights at Lo Manthang, and 2 days to travel by jeep between Jomsom/Kagbeni and Lo Manthang, and Jomsom and Muktinath, this would end up as a 9 or 10 day itinerary starting/ending Jomsom.

A trekker looking out to a vast expanse of colourful mountains and jagged rock formations on an Upper Mustang Trek

Some long and challenging trekking days are well worth it when accompanied by views like this on the eastern route via Dhi, Yara and Tangge

Some long and challenging trekking days are well
worth it when accompanied by views like this on
the eastern route via Dhi, Yara and Tangge

Choosing the Classic/Western route instead, it would be a 7 day itinerary starting/ending Jomsom.

And then, of course, there are various iterations of itineraries you could opt for, picking and choosing what works for you in regards to your interests, preferred walking pace, budget, or overall timeframe.

One point to note however when planning your Upper Mustang itinerary is a safe rate of ascent in terms of altitude. It is not wise to travel to Jomsom from lower altitudes and continue straight to Samar, Muktinath, Lo Manthang, or anywhere else over 3000 metres. A sensible option would be to spend 2 – 3 nights in the lovely village of Kagbeni (2810 m), doing day hikes to higher altitudes and back to Kagbeni to sleep. This will help your body to acclimatise to the 3000 – 4000 m+ altitude that you will be at for the duration of your trek in Upper Mustang. If you are already acclimatised (having spent time at 3500 – 4000 metres within the previous week) then it’s no problem to start your Upper Mustang trek straight away. See the Altitude Awareness and AMS section below for more info.

To help you decide on the best trekking route for you, we’ve included an overview of the main villages, lodge settlements, and sights of Upper Mustang below.

WHAT ARE THE BEST UPPER MUSTANG VILLAGES AND SIGHTS TO VISIT?

Trekkers in Upper Mustang will usually vary their route to and from Lo Manthang, with different overnight stops on the way north and south. There are a number of options for places to stay (although less on the Eastern Route), some in atmospheric traditional villages and others small lodge settlements catering largely to tourists. To help you plan your ideal Upper Mustang trek itinerary, we’ve given an overview of each place to help you decide where you want to visit or stay.

Out of all the places we visited on our Upper Mustang trek, our personal favourites are Kagbeni, Tangbe, Ghami, Tsarang, Lo Manthang, Niphu Gompa, Dhi, Yara, and (especially!) Tangge.

Intricately carved prayer script on mani stones beneath the block of chortens in Tangge, a remote village on the Eastern Route of the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal.

Intricate prayer script on Tangge mani stones

Chortens grouped together in a row in Tangge, a picturesque village on the Eastern Route of the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal.

A block of chortens in Tangge, overseen by the jagged wall of the above plateau

The surrounding landscape forms a spectacular backdrop to Tangge's many characterful chortens

The surrounding landscape forms a spectacular
backdrop to Tangge’s many colourful chortens

Places that we didn’t personally visit, but would love to should we return are Tetang, Ghiling, Dhakmar, Ghar Gompa, Konchok Ling, Luri Gompa, and the crossing of Gyu La to Muktinath.

PLACES ON THE CLASSIC & WESTERN UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE

PLACES ON THE EASTERN UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE

PLACES ON THE CLASSIC & WESTERN UPPER MUSTANG ROUTE

Kagbeni
Tangbe
Chhusang
Chele
Ghyakar
Samar
Syangboche
Ghiling
Ghami
Dhakmar
Tsarang
Ghar Gompa (Lo Gekar)
Lo Manthang
Around Lo Manthang

PLACES ON THE EASTERN UPPER MUSTANG ROUTE

Dhi
Yara
Luri Gompa
Ghara
Tangge
Spectacular Remote Trekking
Tetang
Gyu La

Kagbeni

This medieval village sits at the crossroads of four historic trade routes and the confluence of the Jhong and Kali Gandaki rivers. It’s the gateway to Upper Mustang and your permits are checked here before entering the restricted area. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric village with narrow lanes, traditional mud brick houses, shared courtyards where locals fetch water, quirky ‘ghost eater’ statues, and an impressive 15th century gompa.

We’d highly recommend spending at least one night here. If you’re starting your Upper Mustang trek having spent no time at altitude (3500 m – 4000 m) within the previous week, then it’s a good idea to spend 2 – 3 nights here, hiking to higher altitudes during the day to help you acclimatise before ascending to Samar or Muktinath and beyond.

An enclosed courtyard with prayer flags in the middle and mudbrick houses on all sides in the medieval village of Kagbeni

A traditional courtyard among the mudbrick houses

The male version of a 'ghost eater' statue in an alleyway in Kagbeni, meant to ward away evil spirits.

Kagbeni ‘ghost eater’

Traditional courtyard among the mudbrick houses

Kagbeni ‘ghost eater’

Tangbe

This is an attractive village worth a short detour to visit on your way to or from Chhusang, if it fits with your itinerary. It sits on the banks of the mighty Kali Gandaki, with cultivated fields and apple orchards spread out around it. There are some old chortens, narrow cobbled lanes and photogenic buildings to admire.

Chhusang

Also spelt Chuksang (and numerous other variants), this is a common overnight stop for trekkers on the return journey from Lo Manthang, and a popular lunch stop on the way north. It is directly on the road. The village itself is nice enough, but it’s the incredible coloured cliffs across the Kali Gandaki that really steal the show.

The village of Chhusang sits in an incredibly dramatic location, jutting out into the Kali Gandaki Gorge and framed by those striking cliffs

Chhusang juts out into the Kali Gandaki Gorge,
framed by those striking orange and red cliffs

From Chhusang it’s also possible to make a short side trip to the village of Tetang and back. This village sits impressively atop a cliff, with chortens, ancient cave homes, and a couple of monasteries to see. If you’re trekking via the Eastern Route between Lo Manthang and Muktinath, you’ll pass through Tetang anyway.

Chele

From Chhusang the road follows the river and crosses a bridge beneath some ancient cave homes. You can see a line of ‘windows’ carved out of the cliff face above. From the river bed it’s a short, steep climb to the village of Chele. There are numerous traditional Mustang homes here, a couple of lodges, and attractive views, with the road passing right by it.

Ghyakar

From Chele the trekking trail used to hug the cliffside high above a plunging gorge on the route to Samar, but this no longer exists thanks to the road. There is now a suspension bridge across the gorge to Ghyakar, a small leafy village which saw little to no trekking traffic in the pre-road days. As such, this is very much a local village, with no teahouses. Beyond the village, the trail climbs to Samar.

Samar

This is a small village with just a smattering of homes and lodges, some of which are outside the village by the main road. It’s a common lunch stop, but some trekkers overnight here if it’s convenient for their trek itinerary.

Syangboche

Also spelt Syanboche, Shyangbochen, or similar. This is just a small settlement of a few lodges either side of the road. It doesn’t hold much interest, but it makes a convenient overnight stop for some trekkers, depending on your itinerary. Pushing onto the village of Ghiling would make for nicer surroundings. Between Samar and Syangboche the road goes via Bhena La and Yamda La, with an off-road trekking trail via Chungsi (Runchung) Cave.

A line of prayer flags streaming in the wind at the Yamda Pass viewpoint on the Upper Mustang trek

The view from Yamda La (3970 m) on the road between Samar and Syangboche

The view from Yamda La (3970 m) on the
road between Samar and Syangboche

Ghiling

Ghiling (Geling, Giling) is one of the bigger villages in the region and home to an impressive 15th Century monastery. The village sits at the foot of a rocky mountain, surrounded by agricultural fields (although the water supply in this area is drying up). There are lodges and local homes.

The village of Ghiling (3570 m), tucked in at the bottom of a steep, rocky slope

The village of Ghiling (3570 m), tucked
in at the bottom of a steep, rocky slope

Ghami

Another of the more interesting villages in the region. Ghami (Ghemi) is home to a few lodges and local homes, and surrounded by trees and fields. There is a nice prayer wall and colourful chortens in the centre, alongside taps where locals fill their water. Outside of the village lies the longest mani wall in Mustang at 305 m. Beyond the mani wall, a picturesque cluster of large chortens blend seamlessly with the backdrop of jagged cliffs, the grey, ochre and red paint clearly derived from and influenced by the colours of the landscape.

Women making their way through the centre of Ghami, past the communal water taps and striped prayer wheel wall

Women making their way through the
centre of Ghami, past the striped prayer
wheel wall and communal water taps

Dhakmar

The small village of Dhakmar sits in a narrow valley with spectacularly red cliffs dotted with sky caves rising steeply from the valley floor. Legend has it that the cliffs are so red because they are stained with the blood of a demon, its intestines used to colour the mani wall at Ghami. There are a few guesthouses in the village and it remains untouched by the road development.

A Panoramic view of Ghami village in Upper Mustang

Looking down towards Ghami (left); you can take the trekking trail over the hill or via the valley to Dhakmar and the red cliffs

Looking down towards Ghami (left); you can take
the trekking trail over the hill or via the
valley to Dhakmar and the red cliffs

You can trek from Ghami to Dhakmar via a high route over a hill, or on a dirt track via the valley floor. The first route offers fabulous views, while the latter route passes the 305 m long mani wall and some attractive chortens.

A lone trekker walks the length of the longest mani wall in Mustang, with orange and red cliffs rising in the distance.

The long mani wall outside Ghami, with the orange red cliffs ahead marking the entrance of the valley to Dhakmar

Crumbled chortens matching the colours of the cliffs behind, standing at the entrance to the Dhakmar Valley in Upper Mustang.

These crumbled chortens stand outside Ghami, at the
entrance of the valley that leads to Dhakmar

Tsarang

Tsarang (Charang) is the second largest settlement in Upper Mustang, after Lo Manthang. It was once the capital, and the King’s Palace still stands tall, overlooking the surrounding fields and houses. The most prominent building though is the imposing 16th century monastery, a central red building surrounded by striped walls, one of the most impressive in the whole of Upper Mustang. It’s a lovely village to wander for a couple of hours.

The distinctive 16th century Thubten Shedrup Dhagyeling Monastery in Tsarang

The distinctive 16th century monastery in Tsarang

Ghar Gompa / Lo Gekar

This is the oldest monastery in Upper Mustang, dating from the 8th Century. It is said to have historical connections with Samye monastery in Tibet. The story goes that during the building of Samye Gompa, it kept being destroyed by demons at night. The Llamas dreamt that Guru Rinpoche could help them, and he travelled to Samye to defeat the demons and advised that a gompa must first be established at Lo Gekar. He returned to Mustang, slaying another demon at Lo Gekar (whose blood adorns the cliffs at Dhakmar), and Ghar Gompa was built.

Lo Manthang

The walled city of Lo Manthang is indeed a wonder to behold. Its warren of dirt lanes are a pleasure to get lost in, narrow alleys suddenly opening out into courtyards with water wells and rows of bulbous chortens. Locals rest in the shade, chatting to neighbours, cows wander aimlessly, and flashes of red catch your eye as monks pass by.

There are three historic monasteries to visit – a single 1000 NPR / $10 ticket covers entry to all – each one different and fascinating in its own right. The views from the upper floor of the Jampa Gompa are wonderful, giving you a great perspective over the neighbouring rooftops and surrounding countryside. Restoration work of the intricate paintings on the inner walls of Thupchen Gompa are ongoing – talk to the owner of the art shop within the city walls and check out Luigi Fieni’s website to learn more about the process. Photography is not permitted inside the monasteries (unless you pay a hefty $100 fee!).

Admiring the backstreets

A view of Jampa Gompa and the domed tops of chortens in Lo Manthang, as seen from the city walls

Looking over the chortens and monasteries of Lo Manthang from atop the city wall

Looking over the chortens and monasteries
of Lo Manthang from atop the city wall

Admiring the backstreets of Lo Manthang

The Royal Palace is another main feature of the walled city, although you can only view it from the outside. The square next to it is where the annual Tiji Festival takes place in late spring, but at other times of year it is a nice spot to sit and people watch. The ACAP Office has lots of information boards about local customs, culture and history. Outside the walled city the wider stone streets are home to an increasing number of lodges and shops, unfortunately not all of them in-keeping with the traditional surroundings.

A colourful but faded painted door to a souvenir shop in the walled city of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang.

Lo Manthang souvenir shop

The four storey, whitewashed, mud brick building in Lo Manthang that is the old King's Palace.

The Royal Palace, seen from the main square within the walled city

The Royal Palace, seen from the
main square within the walled city

Around Lo Manthang

There is plenty to explore to the north of Lo Manthang, which is why we recommend a minimum of 3 nights here. The ruins of the historic King and Queen’s Castles (dzong) sit atop two conical hillocks a little to the north. You can hike to them to explore close up, or admire them from afar. The most popular day trip from Lo Manthang is to Chhoser, home to the multi-story Sky Caves of Jhong, along with Garphu and Niphu Gompas.

The lesser visited Konchok Ling cave is 3 km east of Bharcha, up the Ghoiche Khola valley, to the south of Jhong Cave. You need to visit with the key holder to unlock the door guarding the trail to the cave, and beware that it’s a narrow and exposed trail winding down and up to the cave, which is filled with faded frescoes and engravings. The spectacular landscape surrounding the cave is worth the visit alone and is a highlight for many.

A 1000 NPR ticket, payable at the complex entrance at Chhoser, covers entry to each of these caves and gompas (but be sure to tip the key holder too).

Bright red Nyphu Gompa, built into the cliffside

Niphu Gompa, one of the most dramatically situated monasteries in Upper Mustang

Niphu Gompa, one of the most dramatically
situated monasteries in Upper Mustang

To the north-west of Lo Manthang lie the small villages of Namgyal, Thinggar (home to the historic royal Summer Palace) and Kimaling. You can return from Chhoser via these villages, making a loop from Lo Manthang, or visit as a separate return trip from Lo. It’s a long, dusty walk on or near roads to cover the sights north of Lo Manthang on foot, so it’s very common for people to hire a horse, motorbike or jeep for the day instead.

A narrow river snakes through the semi-arid landscape in Upper Mustang, with a small village of traditional whitewashed houses sitting on the eastern bank.

The village of Nenyul, sitting picturesquely next to the river on the road to Chhoser

The village of Nenyul, sitting picturesquely
next to the river on the road to Chhoser

Dhi

Heading south from Lo Manthang the turn off for Dhi is on the left shortly after Lo La. This is the start of a spectacular three day trekking trail to Chhusang that will have you beaming with delight and in awe of the landscape. Dhi itself is reached via Dhi La and a wonderful ridge hike that runs parallel to the Tsarang-Lo Manthang road, followed by a steep descent surrounded by towering columns of crumbling cliffs. The picturesque village sits on the banks of the Kali Gandaki, a cluster of houses and a spread of fields and trees. It’s usual to stop for lunch before carrying on to Yara, but it’s also possible to overnight here (which is a good option if you’re trekking the Eastern Route northbound, instead of a second night at Yara).

A view of the village of Dhi in Upper Mustang from the rocky trail above.

The village of Dhi appears through a gap in the rocks from the trail above

The village of Dhi appears through a
gap in the rocks from the trail above

Yara

A few kilometres east of Dhi lies the village of Yara. It sits high above the river, looking across to the most bizarre cliff face, like melted pinnacles merged together and solidified once again. More sky caves dot the cliffs, forming strange faces looming over the trail. The village, like most in Upper Mustang, has terraced fields spreading out from it and a cluster of traditional homes with a couple of guesthouses.

Yara sits high in a remote valley, its dusty tones seeming to suit the surrounding landscape

Yara sits in a remote mountain valley, its dusty
tones seeming to suit the surrounding landscape

Ghara, Tashi Kabum and Luri Gompa

From Yara it’s possible to make a side trip to Luri Gompa, Tashi Kabum and the village of Ghara. Luri Gompa and the nearby cave of Tashi Kabum are home to some incredible artwork thought to date from the 13th or 14th century. The Indian and Kashmiri influenced paintings adorn a chorten in the inner chamber of the cave at Luri Gompa, with more artwork on the walls and roof of the cave above it. Likewise, the inner chamber of the cave at Tashi Kabum is adorned with detailed artwork surrounding a (damaged) chorten. The village of Ghara has a couple of guesthouses among its numerous traditional homes, hidden away at the end of the valley.

It’s a good idea to check with your guesthouse owner before setting off if you need a key to access Luri Gompa and Tashi Kabum, in which case you’ll need to locate the door keeper.

Tangge

Tangge (Tange, Tangye) is the most beautiful village in Upper Mustang (in our humble opinion). The adventurous trek to get here makes it all the more spectacular. On the journey from Yara you’ll ascend and descend otherworldly cliff faces and cross numerous starkly beautiful plateaus.

After the day’s exertions, the sight of Tangge below is a pleasure to behold

After the day’s exertions, the sight of
Tangge below is a pleasure to behold

The view from the final descent to Tangge, tucked in beneath more impossibly formed rock faces, will have you grinning ear to ear. The village setting is beautiful, with an expansive riverbed below and classic Mustang mountains all around. But it’s the numerous colourful chortens and exquisite mani wall that really make your jaw drop. Add some extra friendly locals and roaming Mustang horses to the mix and you’ve got a village that really takes hold of your heart.

Tangge – Pa – Chhusang
(the best trekking day in Upper Mustang)

The trek back to Chhusang is a long one (24 km/10 hours), so be sure to leave early. There is nowhere to get lunch on the trail, so you must bring a packed lunch from your lodge in Tangge. You can sometimes get water from a small spring at Pa, but it’s best to carry enough for the whole day, just in case it’s dry.

The day starts with a gruelling 800 metre / 3+ hours ascent from the riverbed to the top of the cliffs you’ve been looking over to. Prayer flags welcome you at the top, as does a spectacular view reaching far and wide. The trail to the abandoned settlement of Pa is more rolling, trekking through a landscape now dotted with small pink and red thorny bushes.

Trekkers approaching a mountain pass in Upper Mustang, the village of Tangge far below them and mountains stretching into the distance beyond

The view back from the pass, with the whole of northern Upper Mustang spread out before you

The view back from the pass, with the whole of
northern Upper Mustang spread out before you

After Pa you’ll be treated to some truly outstanding rock formations, a scenic highlight of an Upper Mustang trek with masses of spiked rocky pinnacles shot through with grey, white, ochre and rust. In the distance, the snowy peaks of Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, Nilgiri and friends remind you that you are actually in Nepal and not some alien land.

A narrow trekking trail in Upper Mustang stretching off into the distance amidst some bizarre rock formations, with the snowy peak of Dhaulagiri in the background

The trail along the ridgeline is spectacular, and the accompanying views are even better

The trail along the ridgeline is spectacular,
and the accompanying views are even better

The final 900 metre descent to Chhusang is in three stages – descent, plateau, descent, plateau, descent, Chhusang. The initial descent is the most challenging, steep and slippery underfoot, and the notorious high winds of the region can make it even more tricky.

Chhusang – Tetang – Gyu La – Muktinath

A final (or first if heading northbound) trekking day spent far away from the road, crossing the high pass of Gyu La (4077 m) to reach Muktinath in Lower Mustang. It’s a long climb, ascending 1100 metres to the pass, followed by an easier 400 metre descent towards the villages of Jhong and Chongur, with characteristic Mustang homes. Again, you’ll need a packed lunch and enough water for the journey.

The scenery is wonderful, with panoramic views from the pass of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Tukuche peaks. Muktinath is a holy place, with many Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims journeying here. It is also where trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit descend to after crossing the Thorong La, so it’s a busy place!

SEE MORE OF NEPAL ON THE LANGTANG VALLEY TREK

Langtang Valley Trek Guide post link image featuring trekkers enjoying mountain views and a well earned rest atop Kyanjin Ri (4586 m)

PLAN YOUR LANGTANG VALLEY TREK WITH OUR COMPLETE GUIDE

Langtang Valley Trek Guide post link Image featuring a trekker and guide enjoying a warming cup of masala tea in front of snowy mountains

DETAILED TRAIL NOTES AND OTHER INFO FOR THE LANGTANG TREK

WHEN TO TREK UPPER MUSTANG

GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

The Kali Gandaki River cuts north to south through Mustang, with the Kali Gandaki Gorge being the deepest in the world. It acts as a giant wind tunnel, funnelling increasingly fierce winds up the gorge from mid-morning onwards. The Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks rise on either side of the Kali Gandaki in the Lower Mustang region, forming a rain shadow over Upper Mustang. The geography of the land creates wildly different climates in Upper and Lower Mustang, the former experiencing little rain and having a semi-arid climate as a result.

The Kali Gandaki River snakes down the valley in multiple channels between rocky cliffs in Upper Mustang

A fierce wind can rush up the Kali Gandaki Gorge after being channeled between the high peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to the south

A fierce wind can rush up the Kali Gandaki
Gorge after being channeled between the high
peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri to the south

TREKKING SEASONS

In contrast to the rest of Nepal, Upper Mustang does not experience a summer monsoon, extending the trekking season here from March to November. If you want to trek in Nepal between June and August, this is the perfect trek to choose.

In Spring (March – May) wildflowers grow, adding colour to the dry and dusty landscape. Afternoon winds are usually at their strongest in spring, and it’s peak season for visitors, especially in the run up to and during Tiji Festival.

Summer (June – August) is even more colourful with lush green fields surrounding villages, but there is a higher chance of cloud coverage. There are far fewer visitors to the region compared to spring and autumn, making this a good time to trek if you want quiet trails and guesthouses. Transport in Lower Mustang is far more likely to be disrupted due to the monsoon, so buffer days are recommended to allow for extra time getting to/from the trailhead.

Autumn (September – November) usually has clear skies, colourful trees, and wonderful views all the way south to the snowy peaks of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. All of the photos you see in this guide and in our accompanying account of our trek were taken in late October – early November. Along with spring, autumn is also peak season for visitors.

Winter (December – February) can be harsh and is not recommended for trekking as many lodges close and locals migrate south for the season.

UPPER MUSTANG FESTIVALS

There are two main festivals that take place in Upper Mustang and timing a trek to coincide with these is also a good idea, although you can expect it to be busy.

Tiji Festival

The first (and busiest) is Tiji Festival, held over 3 days sometime in late May or early June each year. Monks from Chode Monastery perform ritual masked dances and chants in colourful costumes, recreating the legend of Dorje Sonnu defeating demons to save the land from drought. The lead monk prepares for his role in isolation for three months at Chode Monastery. The festival takes place in the square within the walled city of Lo Manthang and people come from all over Mustang to attend. A huge ancient Thangka of Guru Rinpoche is hung from one of the buildings, the only time of year that it is on display.

Yartung Mela

The second most important festival of the year is the Yartung Mela, or horse festival. This takes place over 3-4 days around the August Full Moon, marking the end of summer and the completion of the harvest. There is lots of drinking and dancing, plus archery and football competitions, horse races, and religious processions. It is celebrated across Mustang, most notably in Lo Manthang and Muktinath.

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING GUIDE

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING GUIDE

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

UPPER MUSTANG TREK VIDEO

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING MAP

A BRIEF HISTORY OF UPPER MUSTANG

THE KINGDOM OF LO

TOURISM BEGINS

UPPER MUSTANG TODAY

UPPER MUSTANG TREK ITINERARY

READ ABOUT OUR OWN UPPER MUSTANG TREK

UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTES

THE EASTERN ROUTE via Yara, Tangge and Gyu La

THE CLASSIC + WESTERN ROUTE via Chungsi Cave, Dhakmar, Tsarang, Ghar Gompa & Choku La

WHICH UPPER MUSTANG TREKKING ROUTE SHOULD YOU CHOOSE?

WHAT ARE THE BEST UPPER MUSTANG VILLAGES AND SIGHTS TO VISIT?

Kagbeni

Tangbe

Chhusang

Chele

Ghyakar

Samar

Syangboche

Ghiling

Ghami

Dhakmar

Tsarang

Ghar Gompa / Lo Gekar

Lo Manthang

Around Lo Manthang

Dhi

Yara

Ghara, Tashi Kabum and Luri Gompa

Tangge

Tangge – Pa – Chhusang (the best trekking day in Upper Mustang)

Chhusang – Tetang – Gyu La – Muktinath

SEE MORE OF NEPAL ON THE LANGTANG VALLEY TREK

WHEN TO TREK UPPER MUSTANG

GEOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

TREKKING SEASONS

UPPER MUSTANG FESTIVALS

Tiji Festival

Yartung Mela

MORE TREKKING & HIKING ADVENTURES

THE EASTERN ROUTE
via Yara, Tangge and Gyu La

THE CLASSIC + WESTERN ROUTE
via Chungsi Cave, Dhakmar, Tsarang, Ghar Gompa & Choku La

Tangge – Pa – Chhusang
(the best trekking day in Upper Mustang)