• UPPER MUSTANG TREK

    Trekkers on a trail approaching a round orange rock formation with a plateau stretched out into the distance in Upper Mustang

  • UPPER MUSTANG

    Trekkers on a trail approaching a round orange rock formation with a plateau stretched out into the distance in Upper Mustang

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK

Upper Mustang. The name has a certain ring to it, conjuring images of a remote mountain land steeped in centuries-old complex culture. Once called the ‘forbidden kingdom’, the imagination can run wild picturing what waits to be experienced there.

The reality is of course quite different. Upper Mustang is indeed characterised by starkly beautiful mountain plateaus, with the culture fascinating in so many respects, but the world we find is never quite the one we imagine. Constantly evolving, changing, and developing, even hitherto isolated places like this have to find their way in the modern world.

An Upper Mustang Trek only became possible for foreigners in 1992 and at that time it was highly regulated. However, these days the region is quite different to what visitors experienced then, and much if not most of the regulations have been relaxed. As development continues and new roads are built, careful planning is essential to get the most from this trek, and to make the hefty $500 permit fee worth paying. At times we struggled to come to grips with our own lack of planning, but in the end we left after an unforgettable cultural experience and some of the best trekking days ever.

What follows is an account of our trek, along with daily details on distances, times, elevation and accommodation. For a great way to get a sense of the landscape, you’ll find a short Relive video at the end of each day. We’ve also provided GPX and KML file downloads for you to import our route into a mapping app, such as Gaia or Maps.me respectively.

To get a further appreciation of what the trek is like, be sure to watch our Upper Mustang Instagram Stories (part one/part two/part three), and of course, you can experience the journey through our video below.

Fancy an Upper Mustang trek yourself? Our complete Upper Mustang Trekking Guide has everything you need to know to plan your own trip.

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TREKKING UPPER MUSTANG

On the third and final part of our extended Nepal adventure, we entered Upper Mustang at Kagbeni. After a memorable twelve days trekking the Manaslu Circuit and a further ten on the Annapurna Circuit, we were keen to experience something different in this restricted area. We’d already seen the landscape change dramatically after crossing the Thorong La, and the glimpses north from Kagbeni only served to increase our anticipation. On the cultural side, the Sakya Buddhist villages we’d seen in Lower Mustang had made us even more intrigued about the customs and traditions we would learn about in the region.

As with the previous stages of our trek, we’d done very little research. Instead, we were relying on our guide (mandatory for a restricted area), with the expectation being that we’d be able to count on his knowledge, experience and expertise. So, we began our Upper Mustang trek with nothing but a vague outline of the itinerary, but with plenty of excitement for the days ahead.

A note on distances and times. Distances are approximate and often rounded to the nearest kilometre. Total time is the time it took from leaving in the morning to arriving at our destination and includes lunch and other stops. Walking time is the time we were moving but includes time taking photos and shooting video. For your reference, we tend to be on the slower side of average.

Read through our account day by day, or jump to a particular section by clicking on the links below



UPPER MUSTANG TREK ITINERARY MAP

This Upper Mustang Trek itinerary map shows our route, plus the villages and sights along the way. Tap the menu button at the top left for more details, to toggle layers on and off, and switch between satellite and terrain view.

To use an offline version of this map, download our KML file for use with Maps.me (iOS/Android), or the GPX file for use with alternative offline mapping apps such as Gaia (iOS/Android) or OsmAnd Maps (iOS/Android). See our expandable box below for tips on using these apps.

Download GPX  |  Download KML


To save this map to use online on desktop or mobile just tap the star symbol at the top. When you open Google Maps on your phone, navigate to ‘Saved’ at the bottom, then swipe along to ‘Maps’ at the top. You’ll find this map in your list of maps.

On desktop, click the three lines at the top left, select ‘Your Places’, then ‘Maps’. Click the map, then scroll down and select ‘Open in My Maps’ to access the interactive version.

Alternatively, just tap the rectangle symbol at the top right of the map in this blog post to view the My Maps version larger on desktop.

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to view this version of the map offline, but we’ve created a similar version for offline use as per below.


MAPS.ME

Maps.me is our go-to offline mapping app. We find it straightforward to use for planning routes in advance, as well as navigating on the trail. It doesn’t drain our phone battery, and it’s quick and easy to save and organise ‘bookmarks’. There are many trails already marked on Maps.me, plus you can download and import a KML track of your route to the app. 

To use Maps.me, first download the app (iOS/Android). Hover over the region or country that you want to visit and the app will prompt you to download this map. Once downloaded, it can be viewed offline. 

You can tap anywhere and save it as a ‘bookmark’ by tapping the star symbol at the bottom. Hit ‘Edit Bookmark’ to personalise the bookmark colour, organise your bookmarks into different folders, and rename them. 

You can navigate easily or plan routes in advance by tapping your start point and selecting ‘route from’, then tapping your end point and selecting ‘route to’. Tap the car, walking, or cycling symbol at the top of the screen to indicate your mode of travel. If you want to plot a different route to the one suggested by Maps.me, just tap a third (or fourth, fifth, etc.) bookmark between the start and end points and select ‘add stop’. 

Maps.me shows the distance and travel time, plus elevation profiles for hiking trails. Note that the estimated time isn’t always reliable, but we’ve always found the distance and elevation gain/loss to be largely accurate. It only shows very basic contour lines.

You can track your progress on the trail using GPS. The arrow shows your direction of travel. Tap the compass at the top right of the screen to keep the map in a fixed position (the arrow will rotate). Alternatively, tap the arrow at the bottom right of the screen to rotate the map in the direction of travel (the arrow will stay in a fixed position).

GAIA

Gaia (iOS/Android) is another offline mapping app that is very useful. It shows the contours in much more detail than Maps.me, as long as you have previously viewed the section of map online. With a paid membership you can download various maps in advance for offline use. The app has existing OpenStreetMap trails marked and you can import GPX tracks and view them offline. You can also create new routes online yourself and export them as GPX or KML files. You can navigate easily on the trail using the arrow that shows your GPS location. Unlike with Maps.me, it isn’t possible to quickly check distances between two points (or at least we haven’t figured out a way to do it). There are a lot of useful features in the free version and even more benefits if you have a paid annual membership, so if you spend a lot of time outdoors it is worthwhile learning how to use the app to its full advantage. 

In our experience, Gaia drains your phone battery much quicker than Maps.me, even in flight mode, so it’s best to shut down the app completely each time you finish using it. 

OSMAND MAPS

OsmAnd Maps (iOS/Android) is another great offline mapping app with lots of useful features. In our opinion, it’s not as intuitive as Maps.me, and it has so many features that it can be a bit overwhelming at first. Like Gaia, we recommend checking out the written and video tutorials on the OsmAnd website to learn how to fully use the app. The benefits of the app include being able to plot routes in advance and save them as GPX tracks, and to view detailed elevation and terrain information, including surface types. You can also import GPX tracks. One downside is that the free version does not include contour lines, but these can be added via a paid plugin.


UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 1
~
KAGBENI – CHELE

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 1

KAGBENI – CHELE

DISTANCE

16 km

ELEVATION

2810 – 3050 m

TIME

7 hours (total)

5 hours (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Bishal Guesthouse
Twin Room (shared bathroom)
300 NPR


A taste of things to come.

The first day of trekking from Kagbeni is largely on road, but the spectacular scenery of the Kali Gandaki Gorge overpowers any negative feelings. Plus, a few trail sections do cut across – in between and up and down – adding a bit of variety to the journey. The road gradually gains in height and runs above the village of Tangbe (well worth a look), before reaching Chhusang (also spelt Chhuksang). Chhusang (2980 m) has many guesthouses and is perfect for lunch, with many people staying here at both ends of the journey. Chele (3050 m), a picturesque village set high on a hill with a commanding view, is only a few kilometres further. It has a pleasantly intimate feel and is a good place to stay. Almost 200 m higher than Chhusang, it helps with acclimatisation and gives you a head start for the next day’s trek.

The day had arrived. It was time to start our much anticipated journey into Upper Mustang. Unfortunately, the cold that had been developing in Kim’s chest for two days had reached her head, leaving her choked. But, with permit dates fixed there was no option to wait, we just had to go. After a brief stop to stock up on tissues and toilet roll, we left the shadowed streets of Kagbeni behind.

Although there had been a marked change in the landscape after crossing the Thorong La, a taste of things to come in semi-arid Upper Mustang, the reality left us with eyes wide and mouths open. As we climbed up from Kagbeni, the Kali Gandaki Gorge opened up before us. The river snaked across its flat stony plain – a deep brownish grey, looking slick like oil. Splitting and reforming into many channels, it weaved in and out in complex patterns. Rising either side, the rocky cliffs were a mix of ochre reds, yellows and browns.

The Kali Gandaki River snakes down the valley in multiple channels between rocky cliffs in Upper Mustang

The early views of the Kali Gandaki Gorge heightened our anticipation for what was to come next


The Kali Gandaki River snakes down the valley in multiple channels between rocky cliffs in Upper Mustang

Early views of the Kali Gandaki Gorge certainly
heightened our anticipation for the days ahead


We followed the road for the first few kilometres, but unlike previous road days on the Annapurna Circuit, we didn’t mind. It was quiet. There was virtually no traffic, other trekkers were practically non-existent, and the open unobstructed views allowed us to admire the valley at all times. Kim was struggling on but still managed to get excited and blurt out, “This is one of the most amazing places I’ve ever seen!”

As the trail left the road, we climbed steeply on a path of loose stones, entering pistachio land, sparse grass and low dome-like bushes giving the ground its colour. Descending from a mini plateau, we crossed a small tributary of the Kali Gandaki, looking around delightedly at the Cappadocia-esque rock formations: misshapen lumpen forms showing through tattered garments of loose rocks, eroded by the valley’s strong winds.

Two trekkers walk on a wide road during the first day of the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal, with strange rock pinnacles rising to the side and dramatic mountains seen behind.

Both on and off the road, we were already getting a taste of the weird and wonderful rock formations in Upper Mustang


Two trekkers walk on a wide road during the first day of the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal, with strange rock pinnacles rising to the side and dramatic mountains seen behind.

Both on and off the road, we were already
getting a taste of the weird and wonderful
rock formations seen in Upper Mustang


Back on the road, we passed above Tangbe and were reminded of Tajikistan’s Wakhan Valley. Dry mountains descended to a wide river plain, next to which lay harvested fields, punctuated by trees and a few houses.

By now the road was a bit busier. We stood aside from time to time for passing jeeps, motorbikes, and the occasional colourful bus. We wound in and out, up and down, but soon, topping the final rise, we were stopped in our tracks by an unbelievable view down to Chhusang. The village, jutting into the valley on a spit of land and framed by cliffs on either side, forced the river to flow round it in a perfect curve, before splitting into a myriad of patterns and spreading across the grey blue stones. A few whitewashed buildings popped against the rocks behind, while others of more matching hues blended seamlessly. It was quite the scene.

A view down towards the village of Chhusang in the middle of the Kali Gandaki Gorge. The village juts out on a spit of land and red and orange cliffs rise to the side. Seen from the road on the first day of an Upper Mustang trek.

The village of Chhusang, sitting in the middle of the Kali Gandaki Gorge, perfectly framed by the surrounding mountains


A view down towards the village of Chhusang in the middle of the Kali Gandaki Gorge. The village juts out on a spit of land and red and orange cliffs rise to the side. Seen from the road on the first day of an Upper Mustang trek.

The Upper Mustang village of Chhusang,
sitting in the middle of the Kali Gandaki Gorge,
perfectly framed by the surrounding mountains


Reaching Chhusang, we wandered through a warren of lanes, ducking under old passageways and gates before reaching the guesthouse suggested by our guide for lunch. With a bit to wait the whole process took maybe an hour. Kim didn’t have much of an appetite and couldn’t finish her Thukpa (noodle soup). She could barely taste it and found no less than five black hairs keeping the noodles company. My Dal Bhat was tasty enough.

A narrow lane, half in sun half in shadow, leads between whitewashed mudbrick buildings in the Upper Mustang village of Chhusang.

Walking through narrow lanes among the whitewashed mudbrick houses of Chhusang


A narrow lane, half in sun half in shadow, leads between whitewashed mudbrick buildings in the Upper Mustang village of Chhusang.

Walking through narrow lanes among the
whitewashed mudbrick houses of Chhusang


After lunch we made the short 3 km journey along the flat road to Chele. After crossing the narrowed river under cliffs pockmarked by small man-made caves, we climbed up to the village on a steep trail of loose rock and sand. By now the wind was gathering pace, and we were glad to pass under the gate and find a room at the Bishal Guesthouse, a clean place with decent food, good prices, and excellent rooftop views.

As the afternoon wore on, we watched village life from the rooftop: people taking care of animals and drying buckwheat on their roofs, while prayer flags snapped energetically in the wind and the late sun turned the surrounding cliffs golden.

Above a metal bridge crossing the Kali Gandaki, a long row of cave windows mark the orange coloured cliff below Chele, on the first day of an Upper Mustang trek in Nepal.

Cliffside caves above the Kali Gandaki


Rooftops lined with stacks of wood in Chele, Upper Mustang

Stacked with wood, the rooftops of traditional Mustang homes in Chele


Above a metal bridge crossing the Kali Gandaki, a long row of cave windows mark the orange coloured cliff below Chele, on the first day of an Upper Mustang trek in Nepal.

Cliffside caves above the Kali Gandaki


Rooftops lined with stacks of wood in Chele, Upper Mustang

Stacked with wood, the rooftops of
traditional Mustang homes in Chele


We sat down to wait for an early dinner in the busy dining room, kept company by a group of older Singaporeans, photography enthusiasts on a jeep tour. In their sixties or seventies – apart from one middle aged daughter – most of them had been in Upper Mustang two or three times now.

While we waited, Kim fished out the dog-eared copy of our itinerary to check the schedule for the days ahead, quickly realising that it included an extra day – 10 nights and 11 days instead of 9 nights and 10 days. After checking with our guide, he said we would have to compress two days into one, and anyway, that was the normal schedule. But spreading our foldout map across the table, it was clear that this resulted in longer days with less chance to appreciate the villages along the way – so began the planning headache of our Upper Mustang Trek.

Kim went to bed soon after dinner, hoping to wake up the next morning feeling better, and, in that early-to-bed trekking rhythm, I wasn’t too far behind myself.

Relive 'Upper Mustang: Kagbeni - Chele'

Download GPX  |  Download KML


UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 2
~
CHELE – SYANGBOCHE

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 2

CHELE – SYANGBOCHE

DISTANCE

16 km

ELEVATION

3050 – 3800 m

TIME

8 hours (total)

6 hours 30 minutes (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Hotel Dhaulagiri
Twin Room w/bathroom
500 NPR


A mixed bag of a day.

Whichever way you do it, this is a fairly long and tough day. It involves a mixture of trail and dirt road, plus a fair bit of up and down. The road climbs steeply from Chele before crossing a deep valley on the suspension bridge to Ghyakar. The former trail to Samar, which was shorter, has now been overtaken by road construction and destroyed. After the small but pleasant village of Ghyakar, the route follows a dirt track, climbing steadily across an open landscape. A short switchback descent and ascent takes you back onto the road just above Samar, the perfect spot for lunch.

After lunch there are two choices. The trail descends from the village and soon branches in two. One option is to climb back up to join the road and follow it all the way to Syangboche (3800 m), or possibly on to Ghiling (3570 m). The other option is to follow what is purely a trekking trail, climbing a steep path to cross a ridge, before descending into the valley to Chungsi Cave and then carrying on up to Syangboche.

We left Chele at nine, a little bit late with a long day ahead. The sandy road climbed for a kilometre or so, switching back and forth up the mountainside. Before long we crossed the suspension bridge to Ghyakar, an impressive construction across a deep chasm. On the bridge we said hello to the Singaporeans, happily snapping photos before getting back in their jeeps and following the road.

People cross a suspension bridge over a rocky chasm from the village of Ghyakar in Upper Mustang in Nepal

Looking down on the suspension bridge from the Ghyakar side


People cross a suspension bridge over a rocky chasm from the village of Ghyakar in Upper Mustang in Nepal

Looking down on the suspension
bridge from the Ghyakar side


Ghyakar had a sleepy feel. A few people worked the fields and some were busy in the village itself, but mostly it was quiet. Having only recently become part of the trekking route, there wasn’t much in the way of teahouse facilities.

Beyond the village things were a bit of a slog. The trail climbed steadily on a dirt track. The landscape was open – no shelter or shade – and the sun’s heat was noticeable. Having felt better initially, Kim was now feeling pretty drained and our pace was fairly slow.

Looking up, the scenery was quite impressive. The trail took us past a bizarre, misshapen red/orange rock formation that looked a bit like cartoon He-Man. And in the distance, imposing mountains looked down on us, various shades of orange and brown with a touch of purple.

Two hikers on the Upper Mustang trek, climbing a gentle rocky trail towards towering mountains.

Climbing the track from Ghyakar, watched over by the misshapen orange rock


Two hikers on the Upper Mustang trek, climbing a gentle rocky trail towards towering mountains.

Climbing the uphill track from Ghyakar,
watched over by the misshapen orange rock


We descended sharply to cross a gorge and small stream, before ascending through a narrow rocky gap, a tough but interesting part of the trail. After more gentle but steady climbing across open ground, we rejoined the road, skirted past some diggers, and headed down to Samar for lunch.

A switchback dirt trail descending a steep rock face on the Upper Mustang trek

The steep trail down


A trail of rough steps leads up between two rocky cliffs on the Upper Mustang trek.

The energy sapping trail back up


A switchback dirt trail descending a steep rock face on the Upper Mustang trek

The steep trail down


A trail of rough steps leads up between two rocky cliffs on the Upper Mustang trek.

The energy sapping trail back up


Stopping at the Himali Hotel, we got settled in the dark dining room on the ground floor of the traditional Mustang building. Coming from outside we felt blind at first, but when our eyes adjusted, we relaxed and enjoyed the atmosphere. The room was lit by shafts of white light coming through the window while soothing sounds of monks chanting drifted from the old radio. Kim had her first Dal Bhat for ten days, even taking seconds – a good sign.

During the lunch break, discussions about our route and schedule continued. Having seen it on the map, we were aware that the off-road trekking route went past Chungsi Cave on the way to Syangboche, but we had little more to go on than that. Our guide, inexperienced in the area, was suggesting that this route was steep and difficult, and might be too much for Kim in her weakened state. In truth, we weren’t sure if he’d even been that way before or whether he just wasn’t keen to do it, so given the circumstances, we decided to follow his suggestion and take the more well trodden route. Looking back, it’s certainly a regret of our Upper Mustang Trek that we didn’t take that alternative route via Chungsi Cave.

Our decision made, we left Samar with 9 km and plenty of up and down still to go. From the village we descended to cross a small river, climbed a rocky path, descended to a second river, then had a longish climb on a wide track to rejoin the road at the Bhena Pass (3860 m). The wind was strong here. From this point on it was pretty much road, give or take a few sections where the trail cut across. The views were getting better but we were disheartened by the road walking, and couldn’t help but feel disassociated from the landscape we could see, but weren’t trekking in.

Deep canyons and ridges form a layered Upper Mustang landscape all the way back to the snowy peaks of the Annapurnas

There were impressive views over Upper Mustang, and we could even see the Annapurnas and friends to the south


Deep canyons and ridges form a layered Upper Mustang landscape all the way back to the snowy peaks of the Annapurnas

There were impressive views over Upper Mustang,
and we could even see the Annapurnas to the south


The road wound up and down, in and out, wind gathering dust, grit and sand from the unsealed surface. We passed a few trekkers coming the other way, but mostly jeeps and plenty of motorbikes. Eventually we reached the day’s highest point, the Yamda Pass (3970 m). The views here were spectacular – the afternoon sun hit the mountains, creating shadowed layers as interlocking ridges trailed into the distance.

A line of prayer flags streaming in the wind at the Yamda Pass viewpoint on the Upper Mustang trek

Looking northeast from beneath the prayer flags at Yamda La (3970 m)


A line of prayer flags streaming in the wind at the Yamda Pass viewpoint on the Upper Mustang trek

Looking northeast from beneath the
prayer flags at Yamda La (3970 m)


From the pass we could see the small collection of buildings that was Syangboche below. After continuing down the road for a while we came off to follow the old path, taking care on the loose stones and steep descent. We were glad to be off-road, albeit briefly, but were forced to scramble up a rocky embankment as the trail ran below the new road and there was no other way around.

Construction was ongoing as we passed, with diggers scooping up fresh sand and the wind doing its best to spray it in our faces. We had to stop and wait for a few minutes as a dump truck shed its load – not the views we were anticipating. Soon enough though we were past the construction site and walking up the central (and only) street of Syangboche (also Syangbochen, Syangmochen, etc). After 16 km and more than 1700 m of total elevation gain, it’s safe to say we were pretty worn out.

A hiker on the Upper Mustang trek is forced to wait at the side of the dirt road because of construction vehicles and ongoing work.

Delayed by construction on the road above Samar, an issue that occurred throughout the day


A hiker on the Upper Mustang trek is forced to wait at the side of the dirt road because of construction vehicles and ongoing work.

Delayed by ongoing construction on the road above
Samar, an issue that occurred throughout the day


We got a decent room with attached bathroom at the Hotel Dhaulagiri, a traditional Mustang house with two floors built around a central courtyard. After getting changed, we sat in the second floor dining room with a portion of ‘finger chips’, discussed our impressions so far, and set about adjusting our plans for the rest of the trek.

Clearly we were not impressed with the roads and ongoing construction. That effect had been compounded by not taking the Chungsi Cave route. We were absolutely sure that we wanted at least to have time to appreciate the culture of the region, not just slog our guts out on long road days. In the end we decided to trek just one way and take a jeep back from Lo Manthang (instead of walking back along much of the same route). This would allow us to have shorter trekking days and spend more time in the villages along the way. It would also give us an extra day in Lo Manthang.

We had some questions about which route to take from here on. In our original itinerary we would have trekked via Tsarang on the way to Lo Manthang, and via the 8th century Ghar Gompa and red cliffs of Dhakmar on the way back. We were drawn to the ‘western route’ via Dhakmar because it was almost entirely off-road. We studied the map, trying to figure out an option to include both Dhakmar and Tsarang, but the input we had from our guide only confused matters*. Whatever decision we made, we realised we had to miss one of them.

At this point our guide managed to contact his boss (our original intended guide). His advice was not to miss the monastery at Tsarang. So with little else to go on, Tsarang it was. We were disappointed to be missing the western route, but finally with a clear plan in mind, we both felt better and were able to relax and enjoy our evening.

A view from the upper floor balcony of the inner courtyard of the Hotel Dhaulagiri in Syangboche, a common place to stay on the second day of an Upper Mustang trek

The central inner courtyard of the Hotel Dhaulagiri, a traditional Mustang house


A view from the upper floor balcony of the inner courtyard of the Hotel Dhaulagiri in Syangboche, a common place to stay on the second day of an Upper Mustang trek

The central courtyard of the Hotel Dhaulagiri,
seen from the upper floor of this Mustang house


The guesthouse was quite busy and we chatted away with some fellow guests. We also got talking with the owners’ son, a guy in his early twenties who spoke pretty good English. He’d spent time in Kathmandu but had come back to help the family and was keen to see the region develop. He could see we were making a video and seemed interested, making suggestions about this shot or that. Dinner was good when it arrived – Dal Bhat for me and veg macaroni for Kim – and the bottle of beer (Gorkha) to wash it down wasn’t bad either.

*It is possible to include Dhakmar, Ghar Gompa and Tsarang on the route north. The best approach is to overnight at Dhakmar, trek to Ghar Gompa the next morning, then head southeast to Tsarang via Saukre and Marang, rather than north over the Chogo La.

Relive 'Upper Mustang: Chele - Syangboche'

Download GPX  |  Download KML


UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 3
~
SYANGBOCHE – GHAMI

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 3

SYANGBOCHE – GHAMI

DISTANCE

11 km

ELEVATION

3800 – 3520 m

TIME

4 hours (total)

3 hours 30 minutes (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Lo Ghami Guesthouse
Twin Room (shared bathroom)
500 NPR


A short trekking day to the interesting and welcoming village of Ghami.

On the third day in Upper Mustang most itineraries follow one of two main routes: from Syangboche (or Ghiling) to Tsarang (3560 m), or the western route to Dhakmar (3820 m). Either way it is common to have lunch in Ghami (3520 m).

After climbing the hill from Syangboche, the trail descends to cross the Tama Khola before climbing to the small village of Tamagaon (3710 m). From here the wide valley stretches out, with Ghiling (also Gheling) over to the east and Nyi La (4010 m) to the north. A trekking trail winds along the hillside and joins the road before Jhaite (3820 m). After Jhaite, another trekking trail climbs to the pass while the road switches back and forth. After crossing Nyi La on the road, the route follows it for a while before a trekking trail branches left, up over Ghami La (3765 m) and down towards Ghami (also Ghemi). If continuing from Ghami, a trekking trail to the north leads up to Dhakmar, while a road to the east leads over the Chinggel La (also Tsarang La) and down to Tsarang.

Climbing the hill from Syangboche, we topped the rise and soon passed a colourful roadside chorten, in good condition with a rather curious and interesting design. After briefly following a mixture of trail and road, we shuffled down a sandy path to cross the Tama Khola, then climbed the cliffside path opposite, where we stopped for a few minutes to appreciate the sleepy village of Tamagaon.

A colourful chorten in good condition on the Upper Mustang trek has a design that looks like the face of an owl

This roadside chorten above Syangboche had a bit of an owl face


A wall of prayer wheels in the village of Tamagaon, painted with vertical white, grey and ochre stripes.

The increasingly familiar striped colours on a wall in Tamagaon


A colourful chorten in good condition on the Upper Mustang trek has a design that looks like the face of an owl

We fancied this roadside chorten above
Syangboche had a bit of an owl face


A wall of prayer wheels in the village of Tamagaon, painted with vertical white, grey and ochre stripes.

The increasingly familiar striped
colours on a wall in Tamagaon


For the next while we followed a gently undulating rocky path, across an open landscape with only low bushes growing in the dry conditions. Formidable mountains towered to the west, and to the east, we could make out Ghiling tucked in at the far side of the valley. Continuing north we soon joined the road, wider than any that had gone before. Negotiating our way past various construction sites in the village of Jhaite, the riotous cacophony of heavy machinery drove us on. On the outskirts we stopped to admire a beautiful big chorten, but our enjoyment was hampered by the surrounding debris from ongoing road building.

A large chorten by the roadside at Jhaite, close to a stand of tall, thin, leafless trees.

The impressive big chorten on the outskirts of Jhaite


A large chorten by the roadside at Jhaite, close to a stand of tall, thin, leafless trees.

The impressive big chorten outside of Jhaite


Before long we reached the base of the big climb to Nyi La. While the road snaked up the bare hillside we plodded up the trail – a dirt path covered in loose stones and boulders, the detritus of construction. Looking back down the valley, the scenery was impressive, but we were a little downhearted about the nature of the trail and found it difficult to separate one part of the experience from the other. Kim was also struggling again, her throat and chest made worse by the wind borne dust.

A view of the wide valley to the south, seen while climbing towards the Nyi Pass on the third day of the Upper Mustang trek.

Despite the wind, dust and ongoing construction, we couldn’t help but be impressed by the view back down the valley


A view of the wide valley to the south, seen while climbing towards the Nyi Pass on the third day of the Upper Mustang trek.

Despite the wind, dust and ongoing construction,
we couldn’t help but be impressed by the view


The trail met and crossed the road, but at that point we couldn’t continue. A digger was flinging large stones and boulders onto the path from above, so we followed the road instead. Reaching the top, the construction vehicles stopped to let us pass, along with a jeep coming the other way.

From here we followed the newest and widest of the dirt roads, one of three, the other two seemingly redundant. Around us was a blasted landscape; huge piles of dirt and rocks lay either side. With the road unsealed and embankments unprotected, the windswept environment was becoming even more dry and dusty. We could see interesting rock formations in the distance, but again, we found ourselves unable to appreciate them. It was a low moment for both of us, in which we each separately questioned why we were on this ‘trek’.

Needless to say we were glad to leave the road, climbing a little before winding our way down to Ghami. The expansive views from the pass were fantastic and we instantly felt our mood lift. Strange how the emotions can change so dramatically after such a short distance – the difference your immediate surroundings can have on your state of mind. By the time we walked into Ghami we were feeling pretty cheerful, and when we entered the walled garden of the Lo Ghami Guesthouse, and wandered into the beautiful old Mustang house, our experience on the roads was for the time being, forgotten.

A Panoramic view of Ghami village in Upper Mustang

Ghami nestled on the upper slope of the valley, with the colourful rock formations of Upper Mustang’s mountains on display


A Panoramic view of Ghami village in Upper Mustang

Ghami nestled on the upper slope of the
valley, with the colourful rock formations
of Upper Mustang’s mountains on display


Sitting in the inner courtyard, well lit through the ceiling windows above, we took our time over lunch, chatting to three Poles who’d shared the guesthouse with us in Syangboche. They were carrying on to Dhakmar after lunch, but as per our reformed plan, we were staying the night in Ghami.

After lunch we both had our first shower in around ten days. It was a solar shower (a water tank on the roof heated by the sun), but unlike others we’d experienced which were lukewarm at best, it was actually fairly hot. The guesthouse charged us 200 rupees each for the pleasure but it was well worth it.

Feeling refreshed, we had lots of time to explore Ghami. One of the most interesting villages in the region, it made a lasting impression on us. Wandering narrow lanes past mudbrick buildings and distinctive chortens, we found ourselves in a kind of central square. A long wall ran along one side, filled with prayer wheels and painted in orange, yellow, grey and white stripes. On the other side, a row of water taps with strips of colourful cloth hanging from them, catching the drips. Among it all, kids played and a steady stream of locals went about their business.

The central square in Ghami with its striped prayer wheel wall and community water taps

The whitewashed walls of traditional homes in Ghami

With the days work done, men and women relax in the sfternoon sun on the streets of Ghami in Upper Mustang.

A red ochre wall and old wooden door in Ghami, typical of gompas throughout Upper Mustang.

The central square in Ghami with its striped prayer wheel wall and community water taps

The central square in Ghami with its striped
prayer wheel wall and community water taps


The whitewashed walls of traditional homes in Ghami

The whitewashed walls of traditional homes


A red ochre wall and old wooden door in Ghami, typical of gompas throughout Upper Mustang.

A red ochre wall, typical of Upper Mustang gompas


With the days work done, men and women relax in the sfternoon sun on the streets of Ghami in Upper Mustang.

With the days work done, men and women
relax on the streets in the afternoon sun


Everything was touched by the afternoon sun’s warm glow, and we were treated with good humour by the friendly villagers. One woman stopped us and asked if we’d like to see the monastery and maybe buy some souvenirs. “Sure,” we said, but she went to get the key and I ran back to get some money, and then we never saw her again. But that aside, this was what we’d been missing – a shorter day on the roads allowing us to experience more of the unique culture that made a trip to Upper Mustang so special. And as we wandered down to the fields close to sunset, we were now able to fully appreciate the rocky mountains we’d seen from a distance before.

Upper Mustang mountainscape at sunset, seen from Ghami on Day 3 of an Upper Mustang trek.

Light and shadow on the mountains at sunset, looking north from the fields outside Ghami


Upper Mustang mountainscape at sunset, seen from Ghami on Day 3 of an Upper Mustang trek.

Light and shadow on the mountains at sunset,
looking north from the fields outside Ghami


It was almost dark by the time we got back, and we happily settled into the upstairs dining room, a room which could fairly be described as a work of art. Woven rugs and cushions were complemented by elaborately hand-painted wooden chests, wall paintings recounted fantastical tales, and a huge display altar, lined with candles, was chock full of interesting Buddhist ornaments and trappings.

Colourful handpainted artwork on the walls of the Lo Ghami Guesthouse in Upper Mustang

The walls of our guesthouse dining room were painted with colourful legends


Colourful handpainted artwork on the walls of the Lo Ghami Guesthouse in Upper Mustang

The walls of our guesthouse dining room
were painted with colourful legends


As we waited for dinner the Singaporean group arrived and soon joined us in the dining room. Like before they were in good spirits, recounting their experiences from the day. It was a good atmosphere, and by the time we went to bed, we were both feeling positive about what was to come next.

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 4
~
GHAMI – TSARANG

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 4

GHAMI – TSARANG

DISTANCE

11 km

ELEVATION

3520 – 3560 m

TIME

3 hours 30 minutes (total)

2 hours 45 minutes (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Lumbini Guesthouse
Twin Room w/bathroom
500 NPR


More road trekking leading to an atmospheric town with an impressive monastery.

Very few Upper Mustang itineraries would usually allow a whole day just to travel from Ghami to Tsarang (also Charang). Had we started our trek with the knowledge we have now, we wouldn’t have either. Saying that, it did allow us to spend a good amount of time in Tsarang, a place with a lot of interest from a cultural standpoint.

The direct route from Ghami to Tsarang is mostly on road, apart from a few sections on the climb towards Chinggel La (3870 m). After the pass it’s a long gentle descent all the way to Tsarang, an easy but leg-deadening walk on a hard packed dirt road.

Setting off after breakfast we walked through Ghami, down to the river, then up the other side to the longest mani wall in Mustang. At 350 metres long, it fairly stretched off into the distance. Spotting some crumbled chortens at the entrance to the Dhakmar Valley, we headed over to investigate. They were possibly in the worst condition of any we’d seen, but were no less appealing for it. Although the colourful paint was long gone – all that remained were faded patches on their decrepit forms – these half ruined chortens blended seamlessly with the mountains behind, and carried an air of mystery that others couldn’t match. Further up the valley we could see hints of the red cliffs of Dhakmar, and it was with some reluctance that we turned east and joined the road to Tsarang.

A group of old ochre chortens outside of Ghami, their colours blending seamlessly with the mountains in the background

These crumbled chortens seemed to be one with the landscape, man-made creations returning to nature


A group of old ochre chortens outside of Ghami, their colours blending seamlessly with the mountains in the background

These crumbled chortens seemed to be one with the
landscape, man-made creations returning to nature


We wasted no time, pushing our way up the dusty trail as the road switched back and forth to our right. Approaching the top there’s no denying the scenery was impressive, with interlocking layers of hills and mountains forming eye-pleasing patterns of light and shadow, but accompanying it all, was the intrusive and persistent sound of excavators carving yet another scar in the landscape. As we crossed the pass and gazed east, the distant terrain seemed like a rugged paradise, a series of hard ridges, sharp cliffs, deep canyons, and wide plateaus. But, that was way beyond our destination, so, eyes on the road, we headed down the slope to Tsarang.

A colourful orange and white chorten outside of Tsarang

This fine looking chorten welcomes you on the outskirts of Tsarang


A colourful orange and white chorten outside of Tsarang

This fine looking chorten welcomes
you on the outskirts of Tsarang


Making good time, we arrived in Tsarang by midday. After trying one guesthouse, which was very old, ramshackle, and dark inside, we went to try our luck with the next. Our guide said, “Both are the same,” but we’d been hearing that for the best part of a month and knew it was nonsense. Funnily enough, they were not both the same.

The Lumbini Guesthouse turned out to be a pretty good place to stay. A single storey building, this one had a large inner courtyard with bright sunlight flooding through the perspex-type roof. Walking in, we had a laugh to find the Singaporeans waiting to be fed, although they would be moving on after lunch. We got a good sized room with an attached bathroom, but didn’t bother with a shower – two days in a row would be pure luxury. I did however manage to get a few items washed in our faithful Scrubba, much to the interest of various Nepalis in attendance who seemed fascinated with our ‘washing machine’.

The single storey whitewashed Mustang style Lumbini Guesthouse in Tsarang

Lumbini Guesthouse on the main road through Tsarang


People sitting around a table in the light filled inner courtyard of the Lumbini Guesthouse in Tsarang

Lunchtime in the sunny inner courtyard of Lumbini Guesthouse


The single storey whitewashed Mustang style Lumbini Guesthouse in Tsarang

Lumbini Guesthouse in Tsarang


People sitting around a table in the light filled inner courtyard of the Lumbini Guesthouse in Tsarang

Lunchtime in the sunny inner courtyard


After lunch we headed out to explore Tsarang, the second largest settlement in Upper Mustang, after Lo Manthang. It was once the capital, and the former king’s palace still stands dominantly atop a hill, although it’s seen better days. It is also far less eye-catching than the nearby 16th Century Thubten Shedrup Dhagyeling Monastery, a central red building surrounded by striped walls and one of the most impressive in Upper Mustang.

An orange, grey and white chorten, with the tall white ruins of the King's Palace of Tsarang in the background

The King’s Palace, seen on the hill behind this chorten


Looking up the stairs towards the striped walls of the large block shaped 16th Century Tsarang Gompa in Upper Mustang

Looking up the steps to the 16th century monastery


An orange, grey and white chorten, with the tall white ruins of the King's Palace of Tsarang in the background

The King’s Palace, seen on the hill behind this chorten


Looking up the stairs towards the striped walls of the large block shaped 16th Century Tsarang Gompa in Upper Mustang

Looking up the steps to the 16th century monastery


We wandered up to the monastery, enjoying the atmosphere of the narrow streets on the way. The town was quiet but a few locals – and animals – wandered here and there. Near a colourful striped wall of prayer wheels, a few old women warmed themselves in the afternoon sun.

An elderly woman in traditional Tibetan dress spinning prayer wheels along a striped wall in Tsarang

Spinning prayer wheels in Tsarang


Three elderly women in traditional Tibetan dress sitting in the sun on the streets of Tsarang

Local ladies hanging out in the sunny spot


Three elderly women in traditional Tibetan dress sitting in the sun on the streets of Tsarang

Local ladies hanging out in the sunny spot


An elderly woman in traditional Tibetan dress spinning prayer wheels along a striped wall in Tsarang

Spinning prayer wheels in Tsarang


Between the palace and monastery, men and women were gathering what looked like bundles of hay, and one lady came over to give us a couple of small apples. We thanked her for the gesture, munching our tasty apples while appreciating the mountain views to the east.

A Triple Protector (Rigsum Gonpo) statue in Tsarang with three columns in grey, white and orange, with similarly coloured mountains in the background

Between the monastery and the palace, three protective stones face the mountains to the east


A Triple Protector (Rigsum Gonpo) statue in Tsarang with three columns in grey, white and orange, with similarly coloured mountains in the background

Between the monastery and the palace, three
protective stones face the mountains to the east


After walking round the monastery grounds and seeing nobody around, we were about to leave when the returning monks passed us on the stairs. We followed them back up to the central building and after a few minutes, the lights were on and we were let in. As is usual in Upper Mustang, no photos were allowed inside. The first thing we noticed was the smell – musty and old, instantly reminding us of the monasteries in Tibet. Light filtered down through narrow gaps in wood slatted windows high above, heavy drapes hung from the ceiling, and a battered painted drum sat at the end before a well used microphone. We were glad that we’d had the chance to visit and paid our entrance fee (200 rupees each) to the monks on the way out.

The striped walls and blocky red building of the 16th Century Tsarang Gompa in Upper Mustang

Wandering round the striped walls of the monastery and enjoying westward views over Tsarang


The striped walls and blocky red building of the 16th Century Tsarang Gompa in Upper Mustang

Wandering past the monastery’s striped walls
and enjoying westward views over Tsarang


Taking our time, we wandered back a different way, enjoying the street scenes and making the most of the afternoon light. At the guesthouse, we got talking to a Spanish couple. They too were unimpressed with the amount of road walking, and we swapped numbers after floating the idea of sharing a jeep back from Lo Manthang.

A green tin with white Chinese writing repurposed as a plant pot on the window sill of a Tsarang home

Repurposed old tin


A woman doing laundry at a communal water tap in Tsarang while her young son looks on

Washing clothes at one of the communal taps in Tsarang


A woman doing laundry at a communal water tap in Tsarang while her young son looks on

Fetching water from one of the communal taps


A green tin with white Chinese writing repurposed as a plant pot on the window sill of a Tsarang home

Repurposed old tin


It was a full house that night. A group of young Nepalis on motorbikes had turned up and were getting dinner in the courtyard area first. We ate in the kitchen, seated on benches around the walls while the owner (wife) and her helper prepared food at the worktop area opposite. It was quite a different atmosphere from the usual dining room experience. The owner (husband) was watching wrestling (WWE) on a wall-mounted flatscreen TV, while guides, porters and other Nepalis had the air buzzing with their chat as they passed round a plastic jug of local rakshi.

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 5
~
TSARANG – LO MANTHANG

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 5

TSARANG – LO MANTHANG

DISTANCE

13 km

ELEVATION

3560 – 3810 m

TIME

4 hours 20 minutes (total)

4 hours (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Tashi Delek Guesthouse
Twin Room w/bathroom
700 NPR


Reaching the walled city of Lo Manthang.

The journey from Tsarang (3560 m) to Lo Manthang (3810 m) is no more than a half day’s walk. After descending to cross the river on trail, the route follows the gently rising road for most of the way. There are a few points of interest enroute – a giant chorten and some cliffside caves – and the distant scenery is as impressive as always, but mostly it’s just a journey to get through.

Our day started where the evening had finished – in the kitchen. We enjoyed the interesting insight into local life. With many Nepalis staying there, it was noticeably different from our experiences on the country’s main trekking routes. After a standard breakfast of Tibetan bread and omelette (Kim) and porridge and two boiled eggs (Del), we settled our bill, packed our bags, and set off for Lo Manthang.

Leaving Tsarang on a sunny November 1st, we had a fine walk down the trail to the Tsarang Khola. A good looking chorten sat astride the trail, its oranges and reds working well with the golden leaves of the nearby trees. A short metal bridge took us across the narrow river beneath crumbling rock pinnacles, before the trail led us up to join the road.

Yellow autumn leaves and an orange and white chorten next to the Tsarang Khola in Upper Mustang

The trail leads through this chorten and across the Tsarang Khola


Yellow autumn leaves and an orange and white chorten next to the Tsarang Khola in Upper Mustang

The trail leads through this chorten
before crossing the Tsarang Khola


After an hour or so, we stopped to admire Sungda Chorten, an island amidst the sandy road. Whatever else used to keep this impressive chorten company, these days it stands alone, a dramatic focal point in the barren landscape.

Colourful Sungda Chorten, sitting in the middle of the dusty road between Tsarang and Lo Manthang

One of the largest in Upper Mustang, Sungda Chorten is all the more remarkable for its solitary situation


Colourful Sungda Chorten, sitting in the middle of the dusty road between Tsarang and Lo Manthang

One of the largest in the region, Sungda Chorten
is all the more remarkable for its solitary situation


Beyond that we pretty much tried to cover the distance as quickly as possible. For long stretches the road was as wide as we’d seen it, with rubble piled high either side. It soon became a patchwork of roads and trails, old and new, criss-crossing each other and strewn with rocks big and small. The cliffside caves added some interest, as did the distant mountains, but we never paused for long.

The road narrowed as it rose towards the pass and our first sight of Lo Manthang. As we neared the top, we passed the Polish trio we’d met before, surprised to find them returning so soon. They’d arrived in Lo Manthang the day before, but a restless night in a room plagued with rodents chewing their electrical gear had been too much for them. For one woman it had been a lifelong dream to visit the Kingdom of Lo, but in the end she stayed just one night in the old city.

At the top we paused for a view down over the valley and city below, then went off-road to scramble down the trail through a narrow gorge. Soon we were climbing again, and before long, walking under the towering glitzy new gate that marked the outskirts of Lo Manthang.

A panoramic view of Lo Manthang, as seen from a viewpoint on an Upper Mustang trek

Our first view of Lo Manthang after coming over the rise


A panoramic view of Lo Manthang, as seen from a viewpoint on an Upper Mustang trek

Our first view of Lo Manthang


A kind of main thoroughfare runs around the walled city like a dry moat. It’s here that the guesthouses are found, so we set off to find somewhere that would suit us for four nights. After checking a few places, we eventually settled on the Tashi Delek Guesthouse: a two story whitewashed building done in the traditional style, backing onto the walled city itself. It was our most expensive accommodation in Upper Mustang, but we had a decent room with a bathroom attached, and the sunny dining room looked like a good place to relax. Actually the initial price was even higher – 1000 rupees if memory serves – but we negotiated a discount after stressing we would stay four nights and eat all our meals in house.

External view of the large traditional Mustang style Tashi Delek Guesthouse, with prayer flags strung from its rooftop and colourful window frames against whitewashed walls

Our home in Lo Manthang, the Tashi Delek Guesthouse, backing on to the old city walls


External view of the large traditional Mustang style Tashi Delek Guesthouse, with prayer flags strung from its rooftop and colourful window frames against whitewashed walls

The Tashi Delek Guesthouse, backing
on to the old city walls of Lo Manthang


After lunch and the best shower we’d had in Nepal so far, we ventured into the streets of the old city, ducking through a narrow side gate close to our guesthouse. Now let’s be clear, Lo Manthang is very much a city in the old sense – it’s not exactly huge, and these days its population stands at around eight hundred. But, it has a warren of tight alleyways, is big enough to get lost in, and it can take a while to get your bearings. So, that’s what we set about doing, wandering past high-sided mudbrick homes, and women chatting in open spots where the afternoon sun still reached the ground.

Women sitting on the ground chatting in a narrow alleyway in Lo Manthang

Afternoon chat in the sun


Red chortens and whitewashed walls in a narrow alleyway in Lo Manthang

Lo Manthang alleyways are a maze of whitewashed homes and ochre chortens


Women sitting on the ground chatting in a narrow alleyway in Lo Manthang

Afternoon chat in the sun


Red chortens and whitewashed walls in a narrow alleyway in Lo Manthang

A maze of whitewashed homes and ochre chortens


After a while, we heard a voice call from on high… “Namaste!” A cheery old man leaned from his second floor window, indicating the door, telling us to come up and saying something about a ‘rooftop’. So, up we went, through the different levels of his home, onto his roof, and up a wooden ladder to the actual city wall. We had a fascinating view over the tops of the houses, nestled among so many chortens and the distinctive red blocks of the city’s monasteries. In the other direction, the outlying buildings and mountains beyond were cast in a golden magic hour glow.

Coming down, he invited us into his souvenir shop, a dark room filled with a huge range of varied items. After much deliberation, Kim decided on a red coral necklace, rough beads strung on a black band. Satisfied all round, we said goodbye and thanked him again for the rooftop view.

A view of Jampa Gompa and the domed tops of chortens in Lo Manthang, as seen from the city walls

Looking over the chortens and monasteries of Lo Manthang from atop the city wall


A smiling portrait of an older man and proprietor of a souvenir shop in Lo Manthang

Facilitator of views and seller of souvenirs


A view of Jampa Gompa and the domed tops of chortens in Lo Manthang, as seen from the city walls

Looking over the chortens and monasteries
of Lo Manthang from atop the city walls


A smiling portrait of an older man and proprietor of a souvenir shop in Lo Manthang

Facilitator of views and seller of souvenirs


Back at the guesthouse, we were sitting in the dining room waiting for dinner, when we heard drums and soft chanting for the second time that day. We had thought it was coming from inside the walled city but it seemed close, and when we went to investigate, we could hear the sounds coming from behind a door at the back of the guesthouse’s inner courtyard. With the help of our guide, we spoke to the owner and she told us that monks were performing a ceremony in their house. We asked if it would be possible to see, and a few minutes later, were guided through the door, effectively through the city walls, and into the original part of the house.

Gathered in a small room, seven monks from Chode Monastery chanted, banged on a drum, and blasted occasional notes on a small oboe-like instrument. Some read from loose unbound pages of sacred manuscripts, individual sheets neatly piled on top of one another, later to be gathered between two wooden boards and bound with red and yellow cloth. Now and again, the head monk lifted the lid from a ceramic jar, flicking water here and there. Sitting cross-legged on low benches around the room, the monks had blankets draped across their laps, keeping them warm. From time to time, the grandmother of the house filled their cups with hot butter tea, and a young monk made the rounds offering biscuits from a small tray, to us as well.

Sacred manuscripts, teacups, and the round case for a musical instrument sitting on a table while monks perform a puja ceremony in Lo Manthang

The sacred manuscripts from which the monks were chanting, along with cups of butter tea to keep them refreshed


Sacred manuscripts, teacups, and the round case for a musical instrument sitting on a table while monks perform a puja ceremony in Lo Manthang

The sacred manuscripts from which the
monks were chanting, along with cups
of hot butter tea to keep them refreshed


We later found out that this was an annual ceremony. Throughout the year monks are invited to many houses in the city, and over the course of two days, perform a number of ceremonies to bless the household; and in return for the monks’ services, they receive a sum of money to help fund their monastery. We felt lucky to have been there, and this wonderfully unexpected experience was the perfect end to our first day in Lo Manthang.

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 6
~
LO MANTHANG – CHHOSER (RETURN)

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 6

LO MANTHANG – CHHOSER (RETURN)

DISTANCE

16 km

ELEVATION

3800 – 3900 – 3800 m

TIME

6 hours 30 minutes (total)

4 hours (walking)

ACCOMMODATION

Tashi Delek Guesthouse
Twin Room w/bathroom
700 NPR


A day trip to the caves and monasteries at Chhoser.

It’s fairly standard for most Upper Mustang Trek itineraries to include a day trip to Chhoser. The most notable things to see here are the Jhong Caves and Nyphu Gompa, although the 1000 NPR ticket also includes access to Garphu Gompa and Chema-concholing Cave. There are a variety of ways to reach Chhoser. Many people ride local Mustang horses, others take a jeep or motorbike, and some (like us) simply walk. It’s a 16 km return trip, or you can continue round in a loop on the way back to Lo Manthang to visit the villages of Kimaling, Thinggar, and Namgyal.

We left our guesthouse at half past eight, headed down the trail from Lo Manthang, crossed the Chhosak Dokpa Khola, then climbed the other side and followed the road northeast towards Chhoser. It was an overcast morning but the temperature was pleasant, and light filtering through the grey clouds cast interesting patterns across the land. On the two hills above we could see the lumpen shapes of the ruined King’s and Queen’s Castles, and close to the road itself, we passed a number of interesting, centuries-old mudbrick ruins.

Sandy coloured ruins by the roadside on the way to Chhoser in Upper Mustang

Roadside ruins on the way to Chhoser; the King’s Castle sits behind the prayer flags, high on the hill above


Sandy coloured ruins by the roadside on the way to Chhoser in Upper Mustang

Roadside ruins on the way to Chhoser


The walk was scenic, across a wide valley of patchwork fields, small villages, and variously hued sandy mountains. We’d seen pictures of this area at the height of summer, and imagined being here when these fields were green and full of life. The road was quiet, also smaller and more weathered than the newer sections further south, giving it somewhat of a trail feel and blending more naturally with the surrounding environment. Lighter without our usual bags, we enjoyed the journey and were glad we’d chosen to walk. We had considered riding horses, but the memory of a tough eight hour journey to reach the Tsaatan Reindeer Herders in northern Mongolia was still a little too fresh in our minds.

Two trekkers on a trail towards Chhoser in Upper Mustang

Wide valley vistas and layered mountains on the road to Chhoser


Two trekkers on a trail towards Chhoser in Upper Mustang

Wide valley vistas and layered mountains


Arriving at Chhoser the sun had come out, and we were impressed by what we saw. Before even reaching the famous Jhong Caves, we could see that the cliffside opposite was also peppered with numerous caves. Some of these appeared to have walls built into them, even glass-fronted windows and doors. At the foot of the cliff was the village, those familiar whitewashed blocky houses, and on the rocky outcrop above, crumbled ruins shining bright under the now present sun. In contrast, the pale, almost colourless mountains toward the Tibetan border still lay in shadow.

Blocky whitewashed houses, cliffside caves and crumbling ruins at Chhoser in Upper Mustang

The cliffs, caves, ruins and village at Chhoser, shining bright in the morning sun


Blocky whitewashed houses, cliffside caves and crumbling ruins at Chhoser in Upper Mustang

The cliffs, caves, ruins and village at Chhoser


Turning into the valley where the caves lie, we were stopped at a ticket desk and asked to pay 1000 rupees each. This was the price of admission to see the Jhong Caves, Nyphu Gompa, Garphu Gompa, and Chema-concholing Cave, but we were a little put out because it was totally unexpected and there had been no mention of it before. Our guide said it was new and seemed not to know anything about it. At that point we were tending to view everything through the prism of the expensive permit fees we’d already paid, but when we researched the situation after and discovered that little if any of the trekking permit money goes to the local community, that put things in a different light. Obviously it’s a small price to pay if it helps maintain these sights and provide a few jobs.

A short walk later through a narrow gorge, an off-shoot from the valley, we came out into a wide open space with football goalposts at either end, above which towered the caves themselves. The cliffside had the same melted appearance we’d grown used to, like a Mr. Whippy ice cream gone wrong; scattered cave openings marked the rock face here and there, like wayward shavings of flake. We left our bag with the guy who stamped our ticket and climbed the steps to join the decent sized crowd already inside the caves.

Looking out through a cave 'window' to the mountains and houses below

A commanding view of the area from inside the caves


A cliff face pockmarked with holes, forming the Jhong Caves in Upper Mustang

The Jhong Caves


A cliff face pockmarked with holes, forming the Jhong Caves in Upper Mustang

The Jhong Caves


Looking out through a cave 'window' to the mountains and houses below

A commanding view from inside the caves


Wooden ladders led us up through small openings in the floors, where narrow tunnels connected the many rooms. I still had a small packable rucksack on my back with our photography gear, which made things a little tight while squeezing through some of the more restrictive tunnels. The cave system occupies five levels, but we were satisfied with reaching three. We paused to look at some old pottery in one of the rooms, appreciated the views from the ‘windows’, then made our way back down. While interesting enough, the caves were similar to others we’d seen, in Cappadocia for example, and with no information provided about the history behind them, they could only hold our interest for so long. We asked our guide how old they were, but he just said, “Nobody knows.” Later, we found out they’re around 3000 years old.

Our next stop was Nyphu Gompa. Coming back down the gorge, we crossed to the north side of the valley and arrived at the distinctive old monastery. Nyphu Gompa makes an instant impression. The red ochre block of the main building is built into the rugged cliffside, with the telltale black cave openings pockmarking the rock above; a smaller white building sits beside it, and below, a long accommodation block painted in the usual stripes of ochre, white and grey.

Bright red Nyphu Gompa, built into the cliffside

Nyphu Gompa, one of the most dramatically situated monasteries in Upper Mustang


Bright red Nyphu Gompa, built into the cliffside

Nyphu Gompa, one of the most dramatically
situated monasteries in Upper Mustang


We climbed the steps and went inside, but to be honest, the interior couldn’t match the exterior for dramatic effect. It was very small and dark, although we did admire the aged, flaking images painted on walls and ceilings. The oldest part of the monastery is a cave at the back, reached by stone steps, but that area is reserved for monks alone. After just a few minutes, we dropped a donation in the box and made our way back outside.

By this point we were pretty hungry, so we headed down to the nearest lunch place, not far from where we’d bought our tickets. After ordering we sat out in the sunny courtyard with cups of tea, but the wind was getting quite severe so we retreated to the dining room inside.

Aware that the newer Garphu Gompa was without any special interest, and that the other cave was quite distant, we decided to skip them and just start back immediately after lunch. The wind had become ferociously strong and we were keen to return to Lo Manthang before it got worse. As persistent gusts rushed up the valley from the south, it made for an energy sapping journey back, and because the road and surrounding area is mostly dust and sand, we were blasted in the face and eating grit for two hours straight. It was with no small relief that we reached our guesthouse and settled into the cozy dining room with a delicious pot of hot chocolate. And with the wind raging outside, that was the end of our explorations for another day.

The red walls of Lo Manthang and surrounding houses, as seen from the north looking south

Looking across to Lo Manthang from the north on a windy and hazy autumn afternoon


The red walls of Lo Manthang and surrounding houses, as seen from the north looking south

Looking across to Lo Manthang from the
north on a windy and hazy autumn afternoon


Now while the conditions kept us indoors, the circumstances did result in a chance encounter, one that would once more turn our Upper Mustang trek on its head. An international tour group had arrived at the Tashi Delek, mostly French with a couple of Belgians thrown in. As is the case with organised tours operated by big companies, they were extremely well staffed – under a tour leader, there was a senior assistant guide, two junior assistant guides, and a mule handler (all their gear was carried by mules rather than porters).

During the rest of the day, we happened to get into conversation with the group’s leader in the guesthouse dining room. A small, stocky man with a courteous manner, he spoke excellent English as well as French. He told us about the route his group would be taking back from Lo Manthang, and the more he said, the more excited we became.

The talk was of an eastern route, one along ridges and across plateaus that was almost entirely off-road – it sounded like a proper trek and everything we’d been missing. Although we’d seen the dotted line on a map, it had never before been mentioned or discussed as a possibility. Needless to say it threw our already adapted plan into doubt, and we spent most of that afternoon/evening mulling over the possibilities, considerations and implications of such a drastic change. But by the time we called it a day, we’d put together the firm beginnings of a new plan.

Relive 'Upper Mustang: Chhoser Day Trip'

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UPPER MUSTANG TREK: DAY 7
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LO MANTHANG

UPPER MUSTANG TREK

DAY 7

LO MANTHANG

ELEVATION

3810 m

ACCOMMODATION

Tashi Delek Guesthouse
Twin Room w/bathroom
700 NPR


Visiting the monasteries of Lo Manthang and planning the ‘eastern route’.

A second day in Lo Manthang is usually spent visiting three monasteries: Chode Gompa, Jampa Gompa, and Thupchen Gompa. The three monasteries are quite different, each with its own unique qualities. A ticket bought in the main complex of Dragkar Thegchen-Ling Gompa (not one of the three) allows entry into all three, where a monk shows you around. The ticket costs 1000 NPR / 10 USD, and the proceeds go directly towards the maintenance and restoration of all three monasteries. You can visit in the morning from 9 am – 12 pm, and in the afternoon from 3 pm – 5 pm. Also on the ticket is the Monastic Museum, but with the building having been damaged in the 2015 earthquake and not yet repaired, it remains closed. Photography is not allowed within the monastery buildings themselves, although it’s not a problem to take pictures in the grounds outside.

Other than the monasteries, there is plenty to explore among the winding lanes of Lo Manthang itself. And for those looking to stretch their legs and spend a couple of hours outside the walled city, the ruined King’s Castle and Queen’s Castle on the hilltops above are a possibility, as is the monastery at Namgyal and the villages beyond.

After an early morning wander, and before our visit to the monasteries, we brought the latest change of plan to our guide. We’d gathered plenty of information from the guide of the tour group about the route, places to stay, number of guesthouses, etc. Moreover, the entire three day eastern route was marked on Maps.me, an open source offline mapping app we’d used a lot, so we knew it would be easy to follow. The only stumbling block was our Restricted Area Permit (RAP) – by choosing to trek the eastern route at this stage in our trip, we would be spending eleven days in Upper Mustang instead of the ten days allowed by the permit. So, what we needed to do was find out if we could pay to extend it.

A man taking his cows to graze wanders under colourful prayer flags strung across the streets of Lo Manthang

Only a few locals and animals on the quiet streets of Lo Manthang at sunrise


A man taking his cows to graze wanders under colourful prayer flags strung across the streets of Lo Manthang

The quiet streets of Lo Manthang at sunrise


When our guide contacted his boss in Kathmandu, a second problem became apparent – it was Saturday. Having never encountered this situation before he personally had no advice to give, and being Saturday, there was nobody for him to contact as all the relevant offices were closed. We were due to visit the monasteries at nine, but we had time to swing by the ACAP permit office beforehand. When we got there it was closed, so realising there was nothing to be done at this point, we headed to the grounds of the Dragkar Thegchen-Ling Gompa, bought our tickets, and waited to start our tour.

On a beautiful sunny morning, the red walls of the monastery buildings were shining bright, and there was a lively atmosphere in the courtyard as young monks chatted during their recreation time. We were there along with the French group from our guesthouse and soon realised we’d be taking the tour alongside them. As it happened, the situation worked in our favour. The monk showing us around spoke only a little English, but the head guide of the French group was very knowledgeable, and as well as explaining things to his group in French, he also explained a fair bit to us in English too.

Young monks sitting in the courtyard of Dragkar Thegchen-Ling (Chode) Gompa in Lo Manthang

Young monks in the grounds of Dragkar Thegchen-Ling Gompa on a sunny morning in Lo Manthang


Young monks sitting in the courtyard of Dragkar Thegchen-Ling (Chode) Gompa in Lo Manthang

Young monks in the grounds of Dragkar Thegchen
Ling Gompa on a sunny morning in Lo Manthang


First up was Chode Gompa. Set within the grounds of the larger Dragkar Thegchen-Ling Gompa, it is the main Sakya Gompa of Lo Manthang, Sakya Buddhism being the dominant sect within Upper Mustang. There had been a Chode Gompa before this, built in the 13th century during the reign of Lo Manthang’s first King, Ame Pal. However, that monastery was destroyed by an earthquake in the 16th century and any important religious objects were moved to another monastery, which was subsequently destroyed by fire in the 17th century. At that point, all surviving relics were moved to the new (current) Chode Gompa, which had been built in a new location within the city walls.

The relatively small interior of Chode Gompa gave it quite an intimate feel. Lots of old paintings of Bhuddist icons covered the dark walls, and at the end furthest from the door, many statues and ornaments occupied the well lit spaces behind a glass front. Down the middle of the gompa, back towards the door, two lines of cushions bordered the central aisle, and on each one sat a thick ceremonial cloak, erect, as if draped round the shoulders of an invisible monk, or as if its occupant had suddenly vanished – quite a bizarre sight.

After finishing at Chode Gompa, we left the monastery complex and followed the monk through Lo Manthang’s alleyways, until we reached Jampa Gompa. Built in the 14th century, it is the oldest surviving Sakya Buddhist monastery in Lo Manthang. An impressive three storey structure, the ochre painted mud brick walls are a mighty five feet four inches thick. Stairs lead to a walkway around the building’s blocky head, offering views far and wide beyond Lo Manthang.

Birds flocking around the rooftop of bright red Jampa Gompa in Lo Manthang

The top of Jampa Gompa has a distnictive look and is also a favourite hangout of the local birds


Birds flocking around the rooftop of bright red Jampa Gompa in Lo Manthang

The top of Jampa Gompa has a distnictive look
and is also a favourite hangout of the local birds


Inside Jampa Gompa, the walls are decorated with over one hundred gold and silver mandalas, elaborately detailed and encrusted with turquoise, coral, and gemstones. Perhaps most impressive though is the huge statue of the future Buddha, Maitreya, reaching from the ground floor to the top, sitting in meditation pose and shrouded in shadow.

From Jampa Gompa we walked the short distance to our final monastery, Thupchen Gompa. The entranceway, guarded by the four protector kings, leads through to the huge main hall, called the ‘Dhunkhang’. This open space features tall wooden pillars, supporting a vaulted ceiling of rafters engraved with sacred mantras. Around the walls of the main hall are many paintings of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, in excellent condition after having been painstakingly restored, although more remains to be done. At the front of the Dhunkhang are several large statues, chief of which are renditions of Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) and the Great Buddha (Thupchen).

It was in Thupchen Gompa that I really wished to use the camera, not for the paintings and statues which were of course impressive, but to capture the scene and mood within the Dhunkhang. Shafts of light illuminating the hall from the central openings above had an ethereal quality, particularly when highlighting the monk’s face as he talked about the monastery. The play of light and shadow, combined with a deep feeling of age and mystery, created quite the atmosphere.

But with that we were done, back into the streets of Lo Manthang under the bright morning sun. We had been impressed with each monastery in its own way, and felt in the end that the price of the combined ticket was more than worth it. Now it was time to get back to the reorganisation of our trek.

A woman in traditional Tibetan dress carrying a woven basket full of dishes through a narrow street in Lo Manthang

Backpack of choice


A woman in traditional Tibetan dress wandering down a narrow alley in Lo Manthang

Most women in Lo Manthang dress in traditional clothing


A woman in traditional Tibetan dress wandering down a narrow alley in Lo Manthang

A woman dressed in traditional clothing


A woman in traditional Tibetan dress carrying a woven basket full of dishes through a narrow street in Lo Manthang

Lo Manthang backpack of choice


On reaching the ACAP office we were pleased to see it now open, but when our guide asked about extending the permit, he was told it couldn’t be done. Unwilling for that to be the end of the matter, we spoke outside and pressed our guide to ask what would happen if we just arrived back late. Would there be a fine? Or some other punishment? Maybe the guy could call someone in Kagbeni to find out?

 By this point the sullen and wholly disinterested ACAP office representative had pulled his chair out onto the flagstones and was warming himself in the sun. Our guide, who wasn’t exactly keen, went over awkwardly to ask our questions, but when he returned, none of them had been answered. The guy himself didn’t know, and he couldn’t call Kagbeni because it was lunchtime. He did say that he would try later, but time was running out for us to commit to the eastern trekking route and we weren’t filled with confidence by this vague promise.

Given the frustrating turn of events our mood was quite low when we returned to the guesthouse, but one more development had everything falling into place. Seeing the guide of the French group in the dining room, we asked if he could shed any light on the permit situation. He said, “Let me call someone.” And so he did. In less than a minute, he’d spoken to an official and solved our problem. At this point we really came to appreciate the difference between a highly competent, connected and experienced professional guide, and a novice guide with a less developed skill set. Anyway, the upshot was that we’d get a letter at the Kagbeni ACAP office saying we were a day late, then have to pay an extra 50 USD each when we reached Jomsom. Perfect. We’d have paid the same for 3 seats in the jeep anyway. 

After lunch we were able to relax. We spent the rest of the day wandering every inch of Lo Manthang, photographing, stocking up on chocolate bars, soaking up the atmosphere, and quietly watching life go by.